Battery is 6 months old and is crap

20ducks

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I have to keep my trickle charger on my battery going or it is dead. It will not start the car after 2 days of being idle. Is there a history of these batteries going bad ? My car is still under warranty but I don't trust any one at the dealership to give me a straight answer.





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spedy7

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Sounds like a draw somewhere, or just SOL with the battery. I've seen new Fords/Lincolns with draws from different modules, so don't rule that out. Have the dealer do a draw test or do so yourself if you're able.
 

hemistar1

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I have had no issues with battery in my 15 GT or my 19 GT. My 15 was a daily driver and OEM battery lasted and faithful until I sold the car.


I don’t drive the 19 as much maybe 2 times a week (covid), she just sits in the garage but fires right up. I barley have 5000 miles on the odometer. Also I got the 2019 in January last year and it was on the lot for about 6 months.

I would just have dealer replace the battery under warranty. You might just have a defective one.
 
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20ducks

20ducks

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I'm going to the dealer tomorrow. I have a "fast charger" that will start if right up, but I shouldn't need to do this.
 

BigRed550

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I'm going to the dealer tomorrow. I have a "fast charger" that will start if right up, but I shouldn't need to do this.
I had issues with my ‘19 battery. It died a few times after the first 6 months or so. Then after like a year and a month it would be dead every morning I’d try to start it. Ford tested it and it was a bad battery. Got a new one and it’s been fine since.
 

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I relpaced the wet cell stock battery with a replacement AGM 96R from Advanced Auto, since I didn't want another such battery. But I still have to keep it hooked up to my Optimate6 smart charger all the time. Otherwise, it'd be severely discharged in a week. That battery is not acceptable for a 12:1 CR 5.0L V8 engine, period. My wife's ex-2.0T I-4 with 9:0 CR had a much larger battery than that (H6). If not charged constantly, it'd get sulfated quickly, until it just doesn't hold a charge anymore. It didn't cause any trouble when I went on a week-long trip (without charging it), but at home, I just keep it hooked up. And yes, first time I have to do that.
 

kz

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For reference, my car spend little more than a month up on a Quickjack while I was changing couple of things in a rear suspension. Door opened multiple times (so lights got on) but never started or battery charged. Started with absolutely zero issue.

If car is dead after few days or a weeek (in the past I traveled for work a lot so two weeks of not being started wasn't abnormal), it clearly has a parasitic draw of some sort.
 

CJJon

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I have to keep my new 2020 on the trickle charger becasue if the car sits a few days it won't start. There seems to be a ton of electronics that is running all the time and so much that lights up when you just open the door. Since the pandemic I have not driven much at all and the car sits. I do monkey with it though (modding, etc.) so I am in and out of it quite a bit. Wish the car stayed dark until I pushed the start button.

It might not be a bad battery, just not properly sized for the load. I think if i was DDing it I would not have a problem. But I would have a false sense of security.
 

BigRed550

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I have to keep my new 2020 on the trickle charger becasue if the car sits a few days it won't start. There seems to be a ton of electronics that is running all the time and so much that lights up when you just open the door. Since the pandemic I have not driven much at all and the car sits. I do monkey with it though (modding, etc.) so I am in and out of it quite a bit. Wish the car stayed dark until I pushed the start button.

It might not be a bad battery, just not properly sized for the load. I think if i was DDing it I would not have a problem. But I would have a false sense of security.
Do you have the active security? I find if I leave my car unlocked the active security sensors aren’t always running so my car can go weeks without being started now without dying.
 

CJJon

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Do you have the active security? I find if I leave my car unlocked the active security sensors aren’t always running so my car can go weeks without being started now without dying.
Yes. I am sure that is part of the problem.
 

coz0502

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I have to keep my trickle charger on my battery going or it is dead. It will not start the car after 2 days of being idle. Is there a history of these batteries going bad ? My car is still under warranty but I don't trust any one at the dealership to give me a straight answer.
If you don't trust the dealership to give you a straight answer have you considered going to an auto parts store and having them test your battery and alternator? Where I live, Auto Zone, O'Reily's and Advanced Auto will all test at no charge. Something to consider.
 

Elp_jc

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Looks like not all Mustangs are battery killers. Mine is fully loaded, including the 'security package', which might be the culprit, as somebody else already mentioned. Or maybe the Wi-Fi crap, although I have mine turned off. But I know there's nothing wrong with just my car, so will just keep it hooked up when not using it. It's been sitting for 3 weeks now, but will take it out Friday.
 

kz

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For reference, mine is 400A but it does have security package (locking console and some other nonsense) unfortunately. As mentioned earlier, started after more than a month of sitting on the Quickjack.
 

m3incorp

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Mine is fully loaded and I have left it sitting for a couple of weeks and had no problem starting. I have gotten into the habit of putting it on my trickle charger after having been gone for about 3 weeks over the holidays.
 

DougS550

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Mine is fully loaded and I have left it sitting for a couple of weeks and had no problem starting. I have gotten into the habit of putting it on my trickle charger after having been gone for about 3 weeks over the holidays.
I bought my Brand New 19 GT Premium PP1 401a, Magneride, Safe and Smart and Enhancement and when I picked it up last April, the dealer said the car failed to start and so they had charge the battery. I had more starting problems about two months later, I just went on and changed the battery, but also did a AMP draw test which was normal. I forgot if the ford battery has cell access caps, but if it does, you will need to fully charge the battery and then check the individual battery cells with a hydrometer. All the dealership will do is the basic AMP draw check test which you can also do. Good Luck
 

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