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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

ARAMP1

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This doesn't mention Ford, just Dodge etc. Does this happen to be the same connector anyway?
It's an industry standard connector, not make specific. That link is the exact one I used on my subwoofer.

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Gallatyn

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It's an industry standard connector, not make specific. That link is the exact one I used on my subwoofer.

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Industry standard. Excellent. Thank you SO much. This is exactly what I'm needing to do.
 

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Gregs24

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You can really hear/feel the difference?
It removes the hideous boom from the oem speaker and provides a tight musical bass. If you want a booming, thumping bass then leave as it is, but if you want to listen to actual music then replace it!
 

Ironpeddler

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@Gregs24 Great thread, thank you for all your efforts! One question, with both the Pioneer TS-A250D4 and the TS-A100D4 available in the US, which would you recommend??

I'm looking to achieve exactly what you described.

Thanks!
 
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Gregs24

Gregs24

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@Gregs24 Great thread, thank you for all your efforts! One question, with both the Pioneer TS-A250D4 and the TS-A100D4 available in the US, which would you recommend??

I'm looking to achieve exactly what you described.

Thanks!
I think they are effectively the same but I have not compared because I can't as we don't get the TS-A100D4
 

Ironpeddler

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I think they are effectively the same but I have not compared because I can't as we don't get the TS-A100D4
Thanks, Greg....I went with the TS-A250D4 as you did. Now all I have to do is find the time to install it. My boxes are piling up....intercooler, jacking rails, and now the sub.

Thanks again brutha!
 

Ironpeddler

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It's an industry standard connector, not make specific. That link is the exact one I used on my subwoofer.

20221111_134501.jpg
Thanks for the plug link, they worked perfectly. Now I've scoured this thread hoping to identify the polarity of the Ford wires and can't find it. LOL....do you remember which wire was which on the plugs??
 

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Ironpeddler

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From the first post...this worked for me.

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Thank you for the response…I just found it 2 minutes ago when it was referenced in another thread. 😂
I think I have all the info needed and just removed the sub from the trunk.
You guys rock!
 

Ironpeddler

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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I went with the Pioneer.
@RasJeremy ‘s video was great for showing how the pins work. I agree with one of the other posters though, the 9 & 3 are hardest. The rest are so easy when you use a pry tool to push the pin in while pulling the frame. Got the trim ring off with no damage, and only broke the first pin I tried at the 3’oclock position, but it glued back on.
I got the backs of the wire connectors to release, but just couldn’t get the fronts, and they definitely wouldn’t just pull out. At the end of a long day, ‘deconstructing’ them with a dremel was quite satisfying 😉 Glad I went that way though as yes those wires are short and keeping their full length was basically required.
Continued on the next day with modifying the sub to fit the enclosure. I removed the minimum possible metal for maximum screw purchase. Took a fair bit of time but I’m happy with the result.
Sound is great as promised. Punchy controlled base. Can’t complain for a factory amp and box.
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After all the questions I asked and the 39 pages I read, this install was the one that I went with. It seemed like a great way to utilize the OEM screws in their original holes that maintained the OEM look with the grill and trim ring. The way I did it was to use a Dremel with a cutting disc and made the four cuts per mounting hole on the speaker...two cuts on the lip at 1" from the center of the screw hole and two cuts to extend the hole opening exactly like @StigyAus did in his pictures. I then used a flat nosed Vice-Grip to bend the lip flat...worked like a charm! I went with the plugs mentioned from Amazon which gave me the extra length I needed to make the sub a bit easier to move around.

I stuffed the box with fiber fill and everything went back together very quickly...bolted it back in and gave it a test run. As for the overall sound, it's waaaay better than the OEM sub! I had the bass setting cranked up from the old sub, so when I played the first song, it was hitting very hard and the rearview mirror was vibrating like hell!! I'm at about half way on the bass sliding bar now. Taking my time it took me about 3 hours start to finish once I decided on the way I wanted to go with the installation. The sub was $65US...plugs were $12US...and the fiber fill was $5US...all from Amazon....best investment I ever made.

Thank you all for your guidance, especially @Gregs24 for starting this thread and @StigyAus for creating his version of the installation that spoke to me, you all made this very easy.
 

Markuaw1

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I love finding these old threads when I'm trying to do something. This totally hooked me up with how to take the sub box out, how to take it apart, and what sub to buy how to put it back together made everything so easy thanks so everybody that contributed to this thread thank you
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Ezatnova

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Very cool thread

Just bought the pioneer, harness clips, and poly fill on Bezosworld. Funny, the quantity of subs available dropped as I was ordering so others are finding this thread, as well lol. Down to 8 available!

I will read through all of the pages soon but spot-checked a few key posts to find out what to order.

I have a 22 GT500 so hopefully this is a good option. Thought I saw a comment that it seemed odd in the 22 gt500 from someone.

Quick question that I wanted to double check I’m understanding what I read. Is it correct that since I bought the harness clip 2-pack, I don’t need to cut or unclip or do anything to any stock wiring? I saw mentions of unpinning wires from the factory clips and of cutting wires, but I believe the harness clips avoid all of that, correct?

Thanks!
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