Sponsored

Auto Rev Match On or Off - experience and observations

Rhyanski

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2022
Threads
8
Messages
257
Reaction score
465
Location
Bulgaria
First Name
Adrian
Vehicle(s)
2021 FJG Mach 1 #M5810, 2018 Mazda CX-5 Ultimate
I really enjoyed the 6speed manual Tremec when I tested it and I really got in love with the Mach 1 stick during testing. But during testing I couldn't step on it and have revs beyond 4000 point - it was just a lazy drive, lol. Now, owning the M1 manual and past the break-in period, I have started pressing the throttle and feel like a complete rookie at times, as if I have never driven a manual.

I sold my last manual car back in 2015 and drove automatic ever since. Reason for buying the manual is the pleasure of really having to drive the car, so I'm not sorry for my choice, but the reasons for starting this thread are the following:
1. I never had a manual with rev matching before.
2. I never had a car with such a powerful engine and solid transmission. My automatic transmission car is 200hp and even in sport mode does not have the responsiveness of the Mach 1.
3. I am used to rev match the old way - add some throttle while sliding the clutch either on upshifts or downshifts.

Now, with the M1 auto rev matching option, the downshift is a true pleasure - I find it kind of difficult for me to "heel and toe" as I have size 12 feet, and either I press too hard on the brake or too hard on the throttle. So the downshift rev match is really awesome feature for me.
On the upshifts, when cruising and driving econmoically, I upshift in the range between 2500 and 3000 rpm and have no issues.
The issue I have is with the upshifting on higher rpms above 5000rpms. There's an older thread I've discovered on the forum that says the rev match also works on the upshifts, and I see it really does, however on higher RPMs maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Now what bothers me is that when I start slipping the clutch on higher RPM, i also start pressing the throttle to get the revs around 3000 - 3500 rpms, but then when the clutch bites, it seems the 3500 is too little and the car starts to jerk. If I try to rev more - approximately to 5000 there's no jerking, but the engine revs too much maybe.
As far as I understand, the automatic rev match will try to deal with that, so do I really need to add throttle at all until I fully lock the clutch? It seems when I press the throttle while still slipping the clutch, the Auto rev matching "disengages" and I need to add more throttle, but at that time I am already late. Am I wrong?
How do you upshift on revs above 5000rpms - do you still slip the clutch or just release the clutch fast. I think it still needs to be slept at least for the sake of preventing damage to the gearbox.

And, while on the clutch slipping topic, I saw this custom Steeda spring for the clutch that adds more control on the clutch release. I've figured out that keeping my heel on the floor and trying to slip the clutch with the toes only is not precise, especially if you do a lot of shifting like in slow traffic, as the stock spring is much stronger and the ankle does not have that much power to control precisely the release. I've found out that if I use my whole leg to operate the clutch, raising it from the floor, provides more control and I get really consistent release of the clutch and I wouldn't replace the 'harder' stock spring.

Share your observations on the Auto Rev Matching, do I have to change how I operate the throttle?
Sponsored

 

ice445

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2020
Threads
33
Messages
6,091
Reaction score
7,222
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
First Name
Ryan
Vehicle(s)
2020 Mustang GT 6MT
With the auto rev match, all you have to do is put the gear lever in the gate you want and then let the clutch out. On upshifts, I typically will wait a second or two before I go into the next gear, since the gearbox tends to like that better. The rev matching on upshifts just lets the RPM drop until it reaches the correct one for the next gear you selected, then it holds it there.

I have a hard time following what you mean about slipping the clutch on higher RPM's? Are you trying to launch the car from a stop? Are you double clutching or something? There's basically no slip required on upshifts, you can straight up dump the clutch each time with ARM on and the car will ensure it's smooth.
 
OP
OP
Rhyanski

Rhyanski

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2022
Threads
8
Messages
257
Reaction score
465
Location
Bulgaria
First Name
Adrian
Vehicle(s)
2021 FJG Mach 1 #M5810, 2018 Mazda CX-5 Ultimate
I have a hard time following what you mean about slipping the clutch on higher RPM's? Are you trying to launch the car from a stop? Are you double clutching or something? There's basically no slip required on upshifts, you can straight up dump the clutch each time with ARM on and the car will ensure it's smooth.
Thank you for the advice how should I use the clutch with auto rev match enabled. I will try it like that and see how it works.

On the slipping part: When I run 2nd gear on 6500 rpms and change to 3rd, I add some throttle, and if I dump the clutch, it seems the engine needs more revs, so the engine 'stops' instead of pulling the car, hence the jerking in the back. So, when I slip the clutch while adding throttle, it seems to work better, but then I think I'm overreving. That's what makes me think that rev match 'Disengages' when I press the throttle while the clutch pedal is not fully released yet.

What you've advised on the auto rev match however, makes me think that I don't really have to add the throttle at all until the clutch is fully locked, so I will try just dump it and step on the throttle... Thanks!
 

murick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2021
Threads
12
Messages
851
Reaction score
978
Location
Prague, Czech Rep.
First Name
Richard
Vehicle(s)
2021 Euro Mach 1
On the slipping part: When I run 2nd gear on 6500 rpms and change to 3rd, I add some throttle, and if I dump the clutch, it seems the engine needs more revs, so the engine 'stops' instead of pulling the car, hence the jerking in the back.
As already noted by @ice445 when you shift up (2 -> 3) you should not "add any throttle" by yourself. The rev-matching works on upshifts too and the motor ECU will just let the RPM drop to match exactly the new gear and your speed. I had a habit to do it too, but figured out pretty soon that I should not meddle with the throttle during shifting when rev-matching is on, as it only makes things worse :).
 

sakman84

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Threads
15
Messages
417
Reaction score
658
Location
CA
First Name
Adam
Vehicle(s)
2021 Mach 1 Premium. 6MT, Blue, upgraded wheels
^ Don't over think it, the auto rev match feature is pretty smart and well designed, I have used it at two different race tracks and ofcourse in traffic and spirited drives. It is never confused or out of sorts, especially on down shifting, it does its thing, matches engine and trans speeds, as long as you let out the clutch peddle appropriately you will get a nice smooth down shift even at high speeds, or when a change needs to happen quickly to avoid driving into the wall or off a cliff.

The clutch pedal feel on release is not , my favorite. I have considered the Steeda spring. Because of the odd feel on the pedal release, I had some jerky shifts early with the car. Both the pedal, and the shifter feel different from the Mustang GT.

Now on your issue with up shifts, as previous members have said DO NOT ATTEMPT to add throttle on an upshift, with Rev match on. Just select the appropriate gear, be at a reasonable engine speed and clutch out to grab it.

Rev match will make you feel and sound like a rock star in no time.

This transmission takes a fair amount of time to warm up, it likes to be fully warm before being asked to rush shifts regardless of rev match. Also the feel improves with mileage, many can by a bit stiff in the first few hundred miles.
 

Sponsored

OP
OP
Rhyanski

Rhyanski

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2022
Threads
8
Messages
257
Reaction score
465
Location
Bulgaria
First Name
Adrian
Vehicle(s)
2021 FJG Mach 1 #M5810, 2018 Mazda CX-5 Ultimate
:like: :facepalm: Thanks guys, I really was overthinking it and felt I was doing it wrong. Indeed I was, because I had no issues with the downshifts, but I messed with the upshifts and thought I was doing something wrong.

Today I've spent a couple of hours riding in various speeds and I am really in love with this car and gearbox now. Indeed clutch->change to higher gear->release the clutch->throttle after the clutch is fully released, works wonderfully. It is spot on every single time and is a true pleasure how fast and stiff the gears change.

Also someone mentioned you need to give it a second to adjust the RPMs before releasing the clutch, and it is true - if I change the gears too fast and release too fast, then there's some hesitation, a slight mismatch, but a reasonable delay, just a moment, and it upshifts perfectly.

God, I really need to get this car for a looong trip and a track...it feels so good and have only 2500km on it.
 

ShadesOfBloo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Threads
3
Messages
646
Reaction score
2,801
Location
SE Virginia
Vehicle(s)
Datsun wagon, '92 240SX, '08 Evo, '20 Mustang GT
I've left it on, so far.

I bought the car expecting to turn off auto rev-matching, then tried a heel-and-toe downshift...
Compared to everything else I own, my Mustang's pedals are placed really badly for heel-and-toe. I've done it, but it requires turning my foot a lot more, and puts a strain on my right hip.
It's easier to heel-and-toe my 1980 Datsun wagon than my 2020 Mustang.
In my 240SX, I'll casually do it pulling up to a stop sign.
I thought the Evo made heel-and-toe hard, but I got used to it.

In the Mustang, sometimes I'm feeling frisky and I'll make a game of matching revs to preempt the automation. But 90% of the time I just let the computer do it. It's going to stay that way unless I get a kit to adjust the pedals.

The feature I turned off first: Hill start assist (or whatever Ford called it)
It works through the brakes, so if this feature activates it keeps you from rolling back but also adds resistance to rolling forward. It seemed to be really heavy-handed working through my GT-PP Brembo brakes.

I wondered why the F it was such a pain to get my 5L V8 car up the slight grade out of my neighborhood, and when I turned off the hill assist the problem went away.
 

WCRookie99

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Threads
56
Messages
594
Reaction score
1,069
Location
Illinois
First Name
G
Vehicle(s)
2021 Mach 1, 2010 Porsche Carrera S, 2022 LH5
Totally confusing, but need to clarify one point.

Terminology, Down shift is rev matching and up shift the M1 has no lift shift.

On up shifts above 5000 rpm, the car has “no lift shift” (nls) built into the programming. So the entire adding throttle (which on normal cars is absolutely the wrong thing to do) is the opposite on the M1. As it allows you to keep the gas to the floor and just press in the clutch to change gears. The computer will automatically match the engine speed with the car and trans and it actually makes a pop sound.

Hope that helps.
 

trackd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2021
Threads
7
Messages
179
Reaction score
207
Location
CA
First Name
August
Vehicle(s)
19 GT PP2 (SOLD), 73 240Z RB26DETT
Totally confusing, but need to clarify one point.

Terminology, Down shift is rev matching and up shift the M1 has no lift shift.

On up shifts above 5000 rpm, the car has “no lift shift” (nls) built into the programming. So the entire adding throttle (which on normal cars is absolutely the wrong thing to do) is the opposite on the M1. As it allows you to keep the gas to the floor and just press in the clutch to change gears. The computer will automatically match the engine speed with the car and trans and it actually makes a pop sound.

Hope that helps.
The "no lift shift" is only on the Tremec? I can't be sure it's on the MT82, at least I haven't tried it on track, always up-shifted the same way as in my other cars.
 

WCRookie99

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Threads
56
Messages
594
Reaction score
1,069
Location
Illinois
First Name
G
Vehicle(s)
2021 Mach 1, 2010 Porsche Carrera S, 2022 LH5
The "no lift shift" is only on the Tremec? I can't be sure it's on the MT82, at least I haven't tried it on track, always up-shifted the same way as in my other cars.
We’re discussing M1 with Tremec on Mach 1 thread. MT82 is not in either.
 

Sponsored
OP
OP
Rhyanski

Rhyanski

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2022
Threads
8
Messages
257
Reaction score
465
Location
Bulgaria
First Name
Adrian
Vehicle(s)
2021 FJG Mach 1 #M5810, 2018 Mazda CX-5 Ultimate
Totally confusing, but need to clarify one point.

Terminology, Down shift is rev matching and up shift the M1 has no lift shift.

On up shifts above 5000 rpm, the car has “no lift shift” (nls) built into the programming. So the entire adding throttle (which on normal cars is absolutely the wrong thing to do) is the opposite on the M1. As it allows you to keep the gas to the floor and just press in the clutch to change gears. The computer will automatically match the engine speed with the car and trans and it actually makes a pop sound.

Hope that helps.
Yeah, true, I got used to it, however, I thought the NLS activates above 7K RPM. I tried above 5000 and surprisingly the engine flared. Ever since, I release the gas if I change gear below 7k rpm (which is like 99.9% of the time driving on public roads), and the car matches the RPM of the next speed (either higher or lower) and holds the revs there for a while. If you hold the clutch longer, even in gear, the rev match disengages and the RPM go to 1000range...
 

RobZ71LM7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2021
Threads
11
Messages
496
Reaction score
861
Location
Louisville, KY
First Name
Rob
Vehicle(s)
2021 Mach 1, 2019 F-150
It's probably my favorite feature. Nothing cooler than approaching a curve downshifting and hearing the exhaust car throttle blip for a perfectly smooth transition. Makes me feel special since I never mastered heal and toe. It's especially cool with the exhaust in track mode.
 

Zelek

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Threads
101
Messages
4,763
Reaction score
4,621
Location
Round Rock / Hutto, TX
First Name
Matt
Vehicle(s)
2021 Mustang Mach 1
It's probably my favorite feature. Nothing cooler than approaching a curve downshifting and hearing the exhaust car throttle blip for a perfectly smooth transition. Makes me feel special since I never mastered heal and toe. It's especially cool with the exhaust in track mode.
I feel the same way. Not having to actually think about "did I blip the throttle enough" is a great feeling. I was okay at it in my 17 GT but not perfect. The computer is a lot smarter than me at picking the right RPM range on the blips.
 

Coastal-Mach

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2021
Threads
21
Messages
1,903
Reaction score
3,623
Location
Wilmington, NC
First Name
Anthony
Vehicle(s)
2023 BMW M440i, 2020 Ram 1500, 2021 Jeep JK
I agree, the rev match takes my slow a$$ thinking away. My 03 Mach was pretty easy to rev-match, and its not bad in my new one, but I do leave it on. My kids think its the coolest thing ever.
 

Zelek

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Threads
101
Messages
4,763
Reaction score
4,621
Location
Round Rock / Hutto, TX
First Name
Matt
Vehicle(s)
2021 Mustang Mach 1
I agree, the rev match takes my slow a$$ thinking away. My 03 Mach was pretty easy to rev-match, and its not bad in my new one, but I do leave it on. My kids think its the coolest thing ever.
It's also a lot of fun once I added the Borla Atak. My interior resonance went down some but man I know it's loud from the back side and I can hear the bark on every down shift.
Sponsored

 
 




Top