Are radiator upgrades needed for base model GT going to track days

[Allentown]

I am speaking of radiators such as Mishimoto Performance or FLUIDYNE radiators for base model mustangs going to the track.

The base model has the smallest radiator but i have not seen issues with cooling. The larger radiators are only recommended as upgrades on PP mustangs when they have FI but i haven't seen or found any info addressing if a base model radiator should be upgraded for performance driving. I did a search around and it just isn't addressed. Going from a base i can get supposedly "128%" more cooling or "77%" more than what comes on the PP which is a no brainer for $500 and labor.....IF it is needed.

So far i have swapped out my upper lower grills to cervini which rids the car of the active shutters and all of those blocked honey combed spaces in the grill and for engine dress up i plan to get a larger coolant tank (which i supposed increased volume of fluid will help "a little").

This and the upgraded performance pack wheel bearing kits are both coming up blank as far as threads or things people talk about upgrading on base mustangs.

Thanks in advance.

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[o-man]

I've got a base GT that's used for both autocross and HPDE's. I haven't noticed any overheating nor rising temperatures while on track with it. So I think a bigger radiator is a bit of overkill. But, if it gives YOU piece of mind, then go for it

 

[BmacIL]

Unless you're really good, it's hot and you have sticky tires, you won't have a cooling issue.

Focus on brakes and brake cooling first and foremost. Get a compound with a high temp range AND high friction (which means they'll be dusty and noisy on the street almost always). With a high bite pads, you can spend less time braking, despite turning the same amount of kinetic energy into heat, the time factor means less heat gets into your calipers and thus fluid. Heat transfer is time dependent. Get cooling ducts pushing air at the hats of those fancy new rotors and you'll be good all day.

 

[Allentown]

Unless you're really good, it's hot and you have sticky tires, you won't have a cooling issue.

Focus on brakes and brake cooling first and foremost. Get a compound with a high temp range AND high friction (which means they'll be dusty and noisy on the street almost always). With a high bite pads, you can spend less time braking, despite turning the same amount of kinetic energy into heat, the time factor means less heat gets into your calipers and thus fluid. Heat transfer is time dependent. Get cooling ducts pushing air at the hats of those fancy new rotors and you'll be good all day.

I am switching to the PP under air dam (more of a cosmetic necessity as chin splitters all require it).

Do you have links or info about how-to go about setting up cooling ducts

 

[BmacIL]

I am switching to the PP under air dam (more of a cosmetic necessity as chin splitters all require it).

Do you have links or info about how-to go about setting up cooling ducts

JLT makes a nice kit.

 

[Allentown]

JLT makes a nice kit.

I think the JLT is for 15-17 only?

 

[BmacIL]

I think the JLT is for 15-17 only?

You would need to use the lower grille for the inlets.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

EDIT: Ughh. My cut and paste murdered the title. Why can't we edit titles??

It's under Thread Tools on the upper right corner of your first post:

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