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Anyone using Girodisc's rotors on their GT350?

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Is that something covered under the factory warranty?
The cracks? I don't believe so. Pretty normal for heavy use on cross-drilled rotors.
 

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I have around 12 trackdays on my AP kit and the rings are still going strong. A lip is just starting to form.

I’ve run all sorts of of aftermarket discs, pads, heat shields and so on, each time I’ve always ended up with an AP kit. Over the long term it’s always worked out to be cheaper. I’ll be upgrading my rear oem Brembos when their rear kit comes out. The oem dust boots have been melting for sometime now and are finally cracking away.

Let me know when you are ready to upgrade.

As far as going girodisc over the oem, I would stick with oem all the way.
 

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I have around 12 trackdays on my AP kit and the rings are still going strong. A lip is just starting to form.

I’ve run all sorts of of aftermarket discs, pads, heat shields and so on, each time I’ve always ended up with an AP kit. Over the long term it’s always worked out to be cheaper. I’ll be upgrading my rear oem Brembos when their rear kit comes out. The oem dust boots have been melting for sometime now and are finally cracking away.

Let me know when you are ready to upgrade.

As far as going girodisc over the oem, I would stick with oem all the way.
OPmustang sells high temp boots for the OEM calipers
 

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OPmustang sells high temp boots for the OEM calipers
Which is good, but there’s a drawback to silicone dust boots. If you get brake fluid on them during assembly or if you have a leaking caliper seal they will dissolve and fall apart.

You just have to be very careful when installing, if your swapping boots only it’s a non issue typically.

If your doing a full rebuild it can be difficult to keep the fluid off of the seals.
 

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what about the Ti shims that go between the pad and caliper? Would that help with the boot issue? (obviously it will do nothing to reduce heat in the rotor)
 

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what about the Ti shims that go between the pad and caliper? Would that help with the boot issue? (obviously it will do nothing to reduce heat in the rotor)
I ran them years ago on a few my cars along with multiple customer cars and don’t believe in them. They are bandaids for the bigger underlying issue.

The brakes are either not wicking away the heat fast enough due to the size of the braking system or the system is not getting enough cooling.

I push my car extremely hard and haven’t had any luck with these items, it worked initially but was back at square one as I pushed the car harder.

For the person who’s not chasing the fastest lap times or a trophy then those are good options to allow your car to run longer without fade.
 

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Ti shims help for sure, but I still cracked my boots at the second track event with the car. I got an extra day out of the boots, woohoo! haha
 
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I have around 12 trackdays on my AP kit and the rings are still going strong. A lip is just starting to form.

I’ve run all sorts of of aftermarket discs, pads, heat shields and so on, each time I’ve always ended up with an AP kit. Over the long term it’s always worked out to be cheaper. I’ll be upgrading my rear oem Brembos when their rear kit comes out. The oem dust boots have been melting for sometime now and are finally cracking away.

Let me know when you are ready to upgrade.

As far as going girodisc over the oem, I would stick with oem all the way.
Thanks for the feedback, Anthony. I'll probably do an AP kit upgrade this winter. Another bonus to the AP kit is being able to run 18in wheels. By the way, have you gotten a chance to run your new wheels + tires? How do you like it?
 

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I think you'll be surprised. R compound tires can make your brakes work less, not more.

R-comps are stickier. Two effects:
1) more maximum decel Gs (so to go from speed x on the straight to y at turn-in, it takes less time on the brakes)
2) can carry higher speed through corner - so you don't have to decel quite as much for turn-in

But 2) is offset by 3) higher corner exit speeds means your straight-line top speed will also be a bit higher (x+z instead of just x)

You can think about a flying lap of a track like a closed system. At the start/finish line, you're going some speed. Around the track, you spend time above that speed (power) and some time below that speed (brakes), and you end up back at the s/f line at the same speed. R comps will increase your average speed around the track and your speed at s/f through both higher corner speeds and higher corner exit speeds. But the delta in speed from your average to your peak and minimum will be similar with street or R-comp tires.

In that system, the total energy the brakes have to dissipate is therefore mostly proportionate to the car's HP, which you aren't changing. But the greater grip means you can accomplish your braking in less time, which means less heat buildup and more cooling time between brake applications. Compressed braking zones usually translates to longer component life. (Similarly novice drivers are often harder on brakes because they brake for longer and they slow down more.)

Get the data point by all means, but for backups I'd just get a set of stock rotors to keep in the trailer. I usually carry a full spare set of pads and rotors to any track day just in case.
 

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Thanks for the feedback, Anthony. I'll probably do an AP kit upgrade this winter. Another bonus to the AP kit is being able to run 18in wheels. By the way, have you gotten a chance to run your new wheels + tires? How do you like it?
I have, it’s truly remarkable how much you can feel the difference through the steering wheel. Also tires are dirt cheap. I’m using continental take offs which run about 400 a set.

Cheaper pads, cheaper tires, weight savings and better braking performance.

I’ve seen a few of my customers running the 18” signature wheels as well and they clear easily.

I’ll be at Laguna this Sunday to do some more testing along with trying out my new interior setup now with a proper rollbar, seats, harness etc.

When’s your next trackday?
 
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I think you'll be surprised. R compound tires can make your brakes work less, not more.

R-comps are stickier. Two effects:
1) more maximum decel Gs (so to go from speed x on the straight to y at turn-in, it takes less time on the brakes)
2) can carry higher speed through corner - so you don't have to decel quite as much for turn-in

But 2) is offset by 3) higher corner exit speeds means your straight-line top speed will also be a bit higher (x+z instead of just x)

You can think about a flying lap of a track like a closed system. At the start/finish line, you're going some speed. Around the track, you spend time above that speed (power) and some time below that speed (brakes), and you end up back at the s/f line at the same speed. R comps will increase your average speed around the track and your speed at s/f through both higher corner speeds and higher corner exit speeds. But the delta in speed from your average to your peak and minimum will be similar with street or R-comp tires.

In that system, the total energy the brakes have to dissipate is therefore mostly proportionate to the car's HP, which you aren't changing. But the greater grip means you can accomplish your braking in less time, which means less heat buildup and more cooling time between brake applications. Compressed braking zones usually translates to longer component life. (Similarly novice drivers are often harder on brakes because they brake for longer and they slow down more.)

Get the data point by all means, but for backups I'd just get a set of stock rotors to keep in the trailer. I usually carry a full spare set of pads and rotors to any track day just in case.
I got a good schooling from [MENTION=19800]CSL[/MENTION] on being smoother and carrying more speed through corners on our last track day. R comps can definitely help "keep the momentum up" and extend the life of brakes.

The one bit I have learned, though, is it really depends on the tracks you're running. Some tracks an R compound tire will dramatically increase the speed you can carry down straightaways. One of our local tracks, the Ridge Motorsports, allows for another 7-10 MPH down the start straight if you're running R compounds.

I 100% agree with you and we should all focus on driving smoothly and consistently as it means less mistakes, longer consumable life, and more consistent lap times. However, there are those days + tracks where your consumables go out the window and heat becomes a problem. Am hoping to limit the damage of those days :D

I have, it’s truly remarkable how much you can feel the difference through the steering wheel. Also tires are dirt cheap. I’m using continental take offs which run about 400 a set.

Cheaper pads, cheaper tires, weight savings and better braking performance.

I’ve seen a few of my customers running the 18” signature wheels as well and they clear easily.

I’ll be at Laguna this Sunday to do some more testing along with trying out my new interior setup now with a proper rollbar, seats, harness etc.

When’s your next trackday?
Ahh, man. You're killing me with that value prop :lol:

How many additional heat cycles are you getting out of your takeoffs? I spoke with another member and he got 9 out of his Conti takeoffs. About the same for you?

And nothing for sure planned yet since I am still in the middle of the move. Hoping to find something in Texas in June to get my summer jump started!
 

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I got a good schooling from [MENTION=19800]CSL[/MENTION] on being smoother and carrying more speed through corners on our last track day. R comps can definitely help "keep the momentum up" and extend the life of brakes.

The one bit I have learned, though, is it really depends on the tracks you're running. Some tracks an R compound tire will dramatically increase the speed you can carry down straightaways. One of our local tracks, the Ridge Motorsports, allows for another 7-10 MPH down the start straight if you're running R compounds.

I 100% agree with you and we should all focus on driving smoothly and consistently as it means less mistakes, longer consumable life, and more consistent lap times. However, there are those days + tracks where your consumables go out the window and heat becomes a problem. Am hoping to limit the damage of those days :D



Ahh, man. You're killing me with that value prop :lol:

How many additional heat cycles are you getting out of your takeoffs? I spoke with another member and he got 9 out of his Conti takeoffs. About the same for you?

And nothing for sure planned yet since I am still in the middle of the move. Hoping to find something in Texas in June to get my summer jump started!
Lol

On my pirellis I was getting maybe 12 cycles. I will see what happens with these, hopefully I’ll get the same.

But if I get a minimum of 2 trackdays out of each set I’m happy.
 
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Well, I pulled the trigger on a set of Girodisc rotors today. I've been speaking with Forzen Rotors about getting a set of cryo treated rotors and finally submitted my order to day. Very curious to see how these turn out.

Expecting my 2019 OEM rotors to be done after 4.5 days of use, so figured it's time to move on.
 

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Well, I pulled the trigger on a set of Girodisc rotors today. I've been speaking with Forzen Rotors about getting a set of cryo treated rotors and finally submitted my order to day. Very curious to see how these turn out.

Expecting my 2019 OEM rotors to be done after 4.5 days of use, so figured it's time to move on.
let us know your results. Do you think they lasted less time the drilled or you are using more brakes now than before?
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