Anyone build their car more for Grand Touring? (Suspension)

[G.T.]

First Mustang and I didnt realize I'd end up liking it a lot. 2016 GT Premium spec with the 6 speed auto and 3.15 rear end.

I know some are already shaking their heads at the last part lol but it's a good starting point for what I want for this car - a long distance cruiser that I can have some fun in the mountains with.

Now I've seen all the memes and vids so I was approaching fun driving in the twisties gradually. I was pleasantly surprised with it's dynamics in places like on/off ramps a bit faster than normal and I thought stock would be fine.

But when I started giving it some beans on one of my favorite turns, I felt the rear skip a beat.

For perspective I've taken (slid lol) this curve whenever it's clear with a variety of cars like turbocharged Subarus and RWD NA and FI AMG's and I've never felt that.

Basically the only thing I want to eliminate is that. Not really looking to increase ultimate grip or adding a more sporty feel, just that the rear not let go at a bit of spirited driving.

So I guess this is a variation of the age old question here of fixing the rear IRS with the least NVH.

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[Paddles]

What tires are you using?

 

[G.T.]

What tires are you using?

It has almost new 255 40 R19 Michelin Pilot Sport 5 tires all around.

 

[I_dont_even_like_beers]

Its all the lousy rubber bushings in the rear and the slop in the rear sub frame bushings, steedas stop the hop kit will be a great place to start with that. You can buy either individual pieces or they sell it as a whole kit. I replaced all the rear bushings with spherical bearings (gt350 knuckles), installed the bushing reinforcements, along with the rear subframe alignment sleeves and that fixed that right up. Car is much more stable under power now.

 

[G.T.]

Its all the lousy rubber bushings in the rear and the slop in the rear sub frame bushings, steedas stop the hop kit will be a great place to start with that. You can buy either individual pieces or they sell it as a whole kit. I replaced all the rear bushings with spherical bearings (gt350 knuckles), installed the bushing reinforcements, along with the rear subframe alignment sleeves and that fixed that right up. Car is much more stable under power now.

I think you're right. What I felt on the curve did not seem like a slipping tire to me.

I'm thinking which parts to add to keep the car as I want it to be.

I did read up on those IRS parts. I am thinking of the theory of subframe braces. Yes they will brace against subframe movement, but do they really not add NVH in day to day driving considering that the way they are attached takes away up and down and twisting forces from the subframe bushings and transfers them to the unibody?

 

[I_dont_even_like_beers]

I can't give you any sort of idea on nvh because I don't really care or pay attention to that sort of thing. I care about how the car feels and talks to me when I drive it. And with what I did to the car it feels like I'm getting much clearer communication from the cars rear end to my rear end. My nvh was already wrecked anyway from the track suspension kit. So DEFINITELY don't get that if you still want the car to ride nice. There's probably better suspension kits that'll also help, that one was just cost effective and easy to install.

 

[G.T.]

I can't give you any sort of idea on nvh because I don't really care or pay attention to that sort of thing. I care about how the car feels and talks to me when I drive it. And with what I did to the car it feels like I'm getting much clearer communication from the cars rear end to my rear end. My nvh was already wrecked anyway from the track suspension kit. So DEFINITELY don't get that if you still want the car to ride nice. There's probably better suspension kits that'll also help, that one was just cost effective and easy to install.

I appreciate your view on it considering my goals for the car.

At this point in time trying to lose the twitch without added NVH or as little as possible.

I did see the gopro vid on subframe bushing movement and it definitely is a lot!

 

[I_dont_even_like_beers]

Yeah it definitely is alot, you can feel it if you get any kind of wheel spin

No problem, but yeah, I don't imagine all of that adding much nvh, the bushings for the subframe are still there, they're just reinforced with collars, the actual braces may conduct more sound through the frame so I'd say those are a maybe, the toe links, and vertical links shouldn't increase nvh at all though because the subframe bushings should soak up anything they let through and they'll also help the most with stability.

 

[G.T.]

Oh yes I have a few times especially when the roads are wet with a heavy foot!

It appears that Ford made pretty much all the rubber in the rear like jello, from the subframe all the way to the control arm bushings.

I did read a suggestion on here to start with the subframe to have a solid base for the suspension and it make sense I think.

There is a lot of info on the subframe inserts on here and based on the discussions I'm thinking of going with the Whiteline poly inserts as users state it has noticeably less NVH than the aluminum inserts others offer (at the expense of stiffness though).

 

[S550HPP]

I do approx 7000 miles mountain driving a year. Mix of freeway and lots of 2 lane, some not in the best of shape with frost heaved, uneven surfaces, huge cracks etc that can easily destabilize the car at speed if suspension too rigid.

With even a fragment of sanity one will never hit corner speeds in the mountains that will stress the IRS bushings to the point of stability loss.

You should consider a Ford track pack incl sway bars or, Bilstein B6, or Steeda Proactive with Eibach sway bars on full soft or GT350 sway bars, plus rear vertical links. Keep stock springs.

Add all the Ford OE DOT approved chassis bracing on belly and strut / firewall...can get from recyclers cheap.

Naturally, with 450HP on tap smooth and sensitive throttle modulation is critical, particularly when you consider high possibility of invisible dust on the road making it slippery, wild life, logging trucks etc.

 

[G.T.]

I do approx 7000 miles mountain driving a year. Mix of freeway and lots of 2 lane, some not in the best of shape with frost heaved, uneven surfaces, huge cracks etc that can easily destabilize the car at speed if suspension too rigid.

With even a fragment of sanity one will never hit corner speeds in the mountains that will stress the IRS bushings to the point of stability loss.

You should consider a Ford track pack incl sway bars or, Bilstein B6, or Steeda Proactive with Eibach sway bars on full soft or GT350 sway bars, plus rear vertical links. Keep stock springs.

Add all the Ford OE DOT approved chassis bracing on belly and strut / firewall...can get from recyclers cheap.

Naturally, with 450HP on tap smooth and sensitive throttle modulation is critical, particularly when you consider high possibility of invisible dust on the road making it slippery, wild life, logging trucks etc.

Thanks for sharing your real world experience!

I really did want to not have to touch anything, but I was not imagining that twitch I felt in the rear that day.

I was really feathering the throttle then too, nowhere near as much as other cars I drive there as I am still easing into the limits. I was slow and it was slight but I know at faster speeds it would be more butt puckering, which is why I'd like to sort it out now.

Based on your suggestions do you think what I felt is a function of the base suspension damping/spring rates rather than unintended geometry changes from the soft rubber bushes deflecting?

Oh yes, I will be putting on the PP front end bracing and strut tower brace in the future.

 

[CrazyHippie]

First Mustang and I didnt realize I'd end up liking it a lot. 2016 GT Premium spec with the 6 speed auto and 3.15 rear end.

I know some are already shaking their heads at the last part lol but it's a good starting point for what I want for this car - a long distance cruiser that I can have some fun in the mountains with.

Now I've seen all the memes and vids so I was approaching fun driving in the twisties gradually. I was pleasantly surprised with it's dynamics in places like on/off ramps a bit faster than normal and I thought stock would be fine.

But when I started giving it some beans on one of my favorite turns, I felt the rear skip a beat.

For perspective I've taken (slid lol) this curve whenever it's clear with a variety of cars like turbocharged Subarus and RWD NA and FI AMG's and I've never felt that.

Basically the only thing I want to eliminate is that. Not really looking to increase ultimate grip or adding a more sporty feel, just that the rear not let go at a bit of spirited driving.

So I guess this is a variation of the age old question here of fixing the rear IRS with the least NVH.

I have similar preferences regarding the suspension on my Mustang. I installed the Steeda Ultimate Street rear suspension kit and can confirm that it absolutely fixed the rear instability in corners without adding any detectable NVH. The ride is firmer, but not uncomfortably so. I am completely satisfied with the result and highly recommend the kit. You may also want to consider the Ultimate Handling kit - I think that it has a few bits that are polyurethane instead of Delrin and that may result in less firmness if you are concerned about that.

The kits are also very easy to self-install if you are so inclined. Alignment is necessary after the install. Good Luck!

 

[Dana Pants]

Endless bushings need replacing. Probably subframe, toe link, and the big one on the lower control arm. Also put in bilstein shocks/struts

 

[Theye77]

I had the same setup when i got my first ruby red 16 GT. I absolutely loved this car. It was a great boulevard cruiser and comfortable with great looks. I bought a Mach 1 to replace it - i regret it bat times. The Mach 1 is a way better sports car, the GT Premium was a better Muscle cruiser.
P.S: Did you notice the indicator lights integrated into the hood vents ? The 16’s as far as i know ere the only year that had this feature.

 

[tj@steeda]

I have similar preferences regarding the suspension on my Mustang. I installed the Steeda Ultimate Street rear suspension kit and can confirm that it absolutely fixed the rear instability in corners without adding any detectable NVH. The ride is firmer, but not uncomfortably so. I am completely satisfied with the result and highly recommend the kit. You may also want to consider the Ultimate Handling kit - I think that it has a few bits that are polyurethane instead of Delrin and that may result in less firmness if you are concerned about that.

The kits are also very easy to self-install if you are so inclined. Alignment is necessary after the install. Good Luck!

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