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Anybody Familiar with Ford Buyback Options

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scottmoyer

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Oh, I forgot to mention that Ford is using the Florida Lemon Law guidelines for my case and I can't find anything listed about the mileage being used from the first complaint. I have seen that in some states, but Florida states that the mileage used is based on when Ford agrees to buy back or replace the vehicle. Here's the info from the Attorney General's page:

CALCULATING THE REASONABLE OFFSET FOR USE: The Lemon Law charges the consumer an offset for their use of the vehicle, which is based on the mileage the consumer has put on the vehicle up to the date of a settlement agreement or an arbitration hearing, whichever occurs first.

I'm in the process of negotiating the mileage offset due to the time it took them to accept my request.
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scottmoyer

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Ok, I found something out today that I missed and it's a major $$ issue. When reading the Florida Lemon Law guidelines, I took it as black and white and calculated my refund based on exactly what was said. Here's where I screwed up and need to see if it can be remedied.

The lemon law states that the manufacturer, when buying back a car, refunds the purchase price, taxes, fees, etc. When looking at my purchase paperwork, I used the numbers that were documented and come up with the price that Ford offered. Seemed pretty straightforward until I started looking at a new vehicle and realized that I'm now paying cash for the new car, and I don't have a trade in.

When I bought this car, I traded in a vehicle worth $32k. The taxes on my purchase agreement are for about $500 to cover the difference in price of the trade in and the new car and also the taxes on the rebates. Ford is giving me back the $500 I paid, but what about the value on the $32k? I had to pay the taxes on that vehicle valued at $32k that I traded in! That equals $2080 I missed on the buyback. Ford should have to pay me back for the full taxes on the purchase price of the vehicle. So now I only have $500 of tax reimbursement.

So, just in case the taxes aren't making sense, for the sake of numbers, let's say Ford is buying my car back with full reimbursement on a $40k car. The taxes on $40k is is $2600. The trade, valued at $32k, will show a tax paid on the new car based on only $8k, not the full $40k. The state of Florida still collected the tax value based on $40k, because they have my new $8k tax value and the previous $32k tax value that totalled the full 2600. Now, Ford is only giving me back the taxes on the $8k. That leaves me with the full tax value on a new purchase of anything over $8k, when it should be anything over $40k.

This is a major mistake that I need to see if I can get fixed before I return the car, accept their buyback $$, and sign the final papers.
 

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Just called and emailed my CSR rep about initiating the buy back. Told him the car has been in the shop inoperative since 9/27/18 so it has been over 30 consecutive days. Here’s his response:

“I have initiated the review under your state guidelines today and have requested the necessary information from the dealership to ensure proper review. Please bear in mind, this review process takes 5 business days to complete. I do have a follow up with you on Thursday November 1st to touch base in regards to the repairs. I will have a determination in regards to this review on Monday November 5th.”

Is it really supposed to take that long for them to get back to me, or should I call a supervisor to get this done more quickly?
 

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Just called and emailed my CSR rep about initiating the buy back. Told him the car has been in the shop inoperative since 9/27/18 so it has been over 30 consecutive days. Here’s his response:

“I have initiated the review under your state guidelines today and have requested the necessary information from the dealership to ensure proper review. Please bear in mind, this review process takes 5 business days to complete. I do have a follow up with you on Thursday November 1st to touch base in regards to the repairs. I will have a determination in regards to this review on Monday November 5th.”

Is it really supposed to take that long for them to get back to me, or should I call a supervisor to get this done more quickly?
Unfortunately the answer is yes...

The original Ford CSR will convey and review the Buy Back request with Ford RAV (Reaquired Vehicle division). Ford RAV will review your case based on the complaint (warranty work), time (length of time the owner has been without the vehicle and it’s been at shop), accrued miles and whatever other provisions they factor into their review.

Ford RAV is the only Dept. that can authorize or deny a Buy Back based on their internal review and/or other protocols. Once Ford RAV tells the original CSR they will do a Buy Back, you will be transferred over to a Ford RAV CSR who will handle your case from that point forward. The RAV CSR will give you (2) Buy Back options:

1) Vehicle Replacment (you pick any new Ford Product that is equal to your original MSRP).

2) Vehicle Refund (Ford refunds your original purchase costs, minus any applicable useage fees dependent on your Home State Lemon Laws, you turn in the Lemon and you walk away from Ford).

Both above options have been laid out really well by me and others in thenmany Buy Back threads in this forum. So if you haven’t, you may want to take some time to read as many of those threads you can because there’s a TON of details posted about both processes and what’s entailed.


One key thing:
Research, educate yourself and know your State’s Lemon Law Guidelines by going directly to your State’s DMV website (not those cheesy non-State sites as they usually don’t have the most up to date Laws).

Whichever decision you make, Ford RAV will send you a paperwork package via FedEx as well as a special online account link. Any deadlines and requested documents outlined in that paperwork you must adhere to per Ford RAV.

The RAV process itself is also lengthy and will not be completed in a week. It requires patience as the process goes through multiple people within Ford RAV, yourself, the facilitating Dealership where your car is at as well as your lending institution IF the car still has an open loan on it. 4 weeks is common average turn around, while some of us who went through it, it was literally 2-3 months from start to completion. Don’t let that scare you, as every situation is totally different due to many variables AND every State Lemon Law is different as far as what is required to complete the process.
 

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Unfortunately the answer is yes...

The original Ford CSR will convey and review the Buy Back request with Ford RAV (Reaquired Vehicle division). Ford RAV will review your case based on the complaint (warranty work), time (length of time the owner has been without the vehicle and it’s been at shop), accrued miles and whatever other provisions they factor into their review.

Ford RAV is the only Dept. that can authorize or deny a Buy Back based on their internal review and/or other protocols. Once Ford RAV tells the original CSR they will do a Buy Back, you will be transferred over to a Ford RAV CSR who will handle your case from that point forward. The RAV CSR will give you (2) Buy Back options:

1) Vehicle Replacment (you pick any new Ford Product that is equal to your original MSRP).

2) Vehicle Refund (Ford refunds your original purchase costs, minus any applicable useage fees dependent on your Home State Lemon Laws, you turn in the Lemon and you walk away from Ford).

Both above options have been laid out really well by me and others in thenmany Buy Back threads in this forum. So if you haven’t, you may want to take some time to read as many of those threads you can because there’s a TON of details posted about both processes and what’s entailed.


One key thing:
Research, educate yourself and know your State’s Lemon Law Guidelines by going directly to your State’s DMV website (not those cheesy non-State sites as they usually don’t have the most up to date Laws).

Whichever decision you make, Ford RAV will send you a paperwork package via FedEx as well as a special online account link. Any deadlines and requested documents outlined in that paperwork you must adhere to per Ford RAV.

The RAV process itself is also lengthy and will not be completed in a week. It requires patience as the process goes through multiple people within Ford RAV, yourself, the facilitating Dealership where your car is at as well as your lending institution IF the car still has an open loan on it. 4 weeks is common average turn around, while some of us who went through it, it was literally 2-3 months from start to completion. Don’t let that scare you, as every situation is totally different due to many variables AND every State Lemon Law is different as far as what is required to complete the process.
Thank you very much for all of your help and insight on this. So during this RAV process do I keep the loaner provided by the dealer that has my current Mustang? Or do they give my Mustang back after repairs are complete and while I finish the RAV process? Only issue is my car is already at 17,150 miles and CA lemon law limit is 18,000 miles. So if I drive past the limit before completing the RAV process what would happen then?
 

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Thank you very much for all of your help and insight on this. So during this RAV process do I keep the loaner provided by the dealer that has my current Mustang? Or do they give my Mustang back after repairs are complete and while I finish the RAV process? Only issue is my car is already at 17,150 miles and CA lemon law limit is 18,000 miles. So if I drive past the limit before completing the RAV process what would happen then?
No problem with the help at all.

At what point is your vehicle at in the repair process and has anyone told you it will be fully repaired and ready to be picked up prior to or on Nov 5th?
Sitting at Dealer and drivable?
Sitting at Dealer dismantled?
Sitting at Dealer but not drivable?

Is the loaner being paid out of your pocket or is a Dealer sponsored loaner? If it’s being paid by you, then you’ll return it once your Buy Back process is completed. I would also request reimbursement for that cost. If it’s a Dealer sponsored loaner then you’ll just turn it back into the Dealership when Ford RAV tells you to do so. Since your vehicle has been at the shop, then obviously you need wheels to get around so I don’t think they will revoke a Dealer sponsored loaner prior to the Buy Back being completed.

Now IF your vehicle does get repaired after agreeing to participate in the Ford Buy Back Program, they may take the loaner back and request that you drive your vehicle until it’s time to turn it in.

Remember, if your vehicle is financed or leased, you are still responsible for any or all payments (to Lender and Auto Insurance) up until the day you turn over that vehicle back to Ford - even if it’s sitting in pieces. Many people think that because they enter into a Buy Back Program they no longer need to continue making payments... NOT TRUE. If you skip payments, you will not only harm your credit, but Ford nor the Lending Institution will let a new vehicle replacement go until all money owed is paid in full.

Don’t wait for the Nov 5th phone call - meaning, be proactive and call your current CSR on Nov 5th, don’t wait for him/her to call you (sometimes they do sometimes they don’t call when they say they will).

If you have entered into a RAV agreement before the 18k miles (per your CA Lemon Law), you should be ok and within your Law’s provisions, even if you get the car back and go over the miles. Reason being is you entered into the RAV process before the 18k. Plus since your vehicle has been at the Ford Service Center, the mileage noted at time of intake should not have changed all that much, especially if it’s not being driven.
 

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No problem with the help at all.

At what point is your vehicle at in the repair process and has anyone told you it will be fully repaired and ready to be picked up prior to or on Nov 5th?
Sitting at Dealer and drivable?
Sitting at Dealer dismantled?
Sitting at Dealer but not drivable?

Is the loaner being paid out of your pocket or is a Dealer sponsored loaner? If it’s being paid by you, then you’ll return it once your Buy Back process is completed. I would also request reimbursement for that cost. If it’s a Dealer sponsored loaner then you’ll just turn it back into the Dealership when Ford RAV tells you to do so. Since your vehicle has been at the shop, then obviously you need wheels to get around so I don’t think they will revoke a Dealer sponsored loaner prior to the Buy Back being completed.

Now IF your vehicle does get repaired after agreeing to participate in the Ford Buy Back Program, they may take the loaner back and request that you drive your vehicle until it’s time to turn it in.

Remember, if your vehicle is financed or leased, you are still responsible for any or all payments (to Lender and Auto Insurance) up until the day you turn over that vehicle back to Ford - even if it’s sitting in pieces. Many people think that because they enter into a Buy Back Program they no longer need to continue making payments... NOT TRUE. If you skip payments, you will not only harm your credit, but Ford nor the Lending Institution will let a new vehicle replacement go until all money owed is paid in full.

Don’t wait for the Nov 5th phone call - meaning, be proactive and call your current CSR on Nov 5th, don’t wait for him/her to call you (sometimes they do sometimes they don’t call when they say they will).

If you have entered into a RAV agreement before the 18k miles (per your CA Lemon Law), you should be ok and within your Law’s provisions, even if you get the car back and go over the miles. Reason being is you entered into the RAV process before the 18k. Plus since your vehicle has been at the Ford Service Center, the mileage noted at time of intake should not have changed all that much, especially if it’s not being driven.
Service advisor texted me Friday that “if all goes well I should have your mustang back to you by the end of the week.” Basically they received the short block on 10/15 and had the car disassembled on 10/17 but discovered scoring on the camshaft on cylinder 2. Ordered new camshaft and cylinder head which arrived 10/25. Didn’t start working on my mustang until 10/26 afternoon. And that’s the last I heard from the dealer.

Loaner is dealer sponsored and gets 39 mpg (hybrid Fusion) which is pretty nice lol despite the boringness.
 

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Service advisor texted me yesterday “Hi Sean, just wanted to give you another update on your Mustang. Engine is reassembled and is ready to get dropped back in to the vehicle. He's going to do that tomorrow, with any luck I'll have it finished and ready to go tomorrow as well. Friday at the latest.”

One thing I didn’t think about that will probably be an issue is I’m going to be out of the country from Thanksgiving to second week of December... I can access emails and get an international roaming plan but I’m screwed regarding the paper documents that they are going to fedex... Maybe I can tell the RAV rep about my trip and ask to start the buyback process after I come back?
 

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Service advisor texted me yesterday “Hi Sean, just wanted to give you another update on your Mustang. Engine is reassembled and is ready to get dropped back in to the vehicle. He's going to do that tomorrow, with any luck I'll have it finished and ready to go tomorrow as well. Friday at the latest.”

One thing I didn’t think about that will probably be an issue is I’m going to be out of the country from Thanksgiving to second week of December... I can access emails and get an international roaming plan but I’m screwed regarding the paper documents that they are going to fedex... Maybe I can tell the RAV rep about my trip and ask to start the buyback process after I come back?
If you have been approved for a Buy Back, they (RAV) should be able to send the same doc package to you via email. So you may want to inquire with them how to proceed with receipt of the paxkge and return signatures of same for your specific case since you’ll be out of the US.
 

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If you have been approved for a Buy Back, they (RAV) should be able to send the same doc package to you via email. So you may want to inquire with them how to proceed with receipt of the paxkge and return signatures of same for your specific case since you’ll be out of the US.
The CSR manager called me today to follow up on my repair and acknowledged that the service advisor told me my Mustang will be ready for pickup tomorrow. Asked him about the Buy Back (he called it “Good Faith”) review and he said I’ll have an answer Monday. He also confirmed that if and once I get approved I can drive over the mileage limit no problem. They only care about the documented mileage in and out of the shop. Finally he said I could delay the buy back process by telling the RAV rep to when I come back from my trip. So sounds like everything’s gonna work out and I’ll at least get to drive my Mustang until then.
 

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The CSR manager called me today to follow up on my repair and acknowledged that the service advisor told me my Mustang will be ready for pickup tomorrow. Asked him about the Buy Back (he called it “Good Faith”) review and he said I’ll have an answer Monday. He also confirmed that if and once I get approved I can drive over the mileage limit no problem. They only care about the documented mileage in and out of the shop. Finally he said I could delay the buy back process by telling the RAV rep to when I come back from my trip. So sounds like everything’s gonna work out and I’ll at least get to drive my Mustang until then.
Whatever you do - try to get anything discussed by you and the CSR (or RAV CSR if it goes that far) in writing. For instance if they say they can or will work with you after you return to the States, ask for their email and get them to document it in an email, otherwise it’s your word against theirs (even though they are supposed to document all conversations with the Customer unit their system by the assigned Case number).

When I went through my process - I emailed and saved all correspondences and also saved any voicemails - this way I was completely backed up by facts between me, Dealership, CSR or RAV.

It’s good they are working with you. Even though the car is repaired - they are giving it more time to see if you (customer) are either satisfied with the repair, if there’s any other concerns from the repair, if there’s new issues which will of course sway your decision to keep the vehicle OR if you still want to pursue the Buy Back.

Always follow up or call them - be proactive because if you don’t, you won’t hear back from them (more so after you get the car back). Some CSRs are great, others get lost in the shuffle of cusomters they are dealing with and aren’t so good with followups.

One more thing:
Do not let them close the Case! Tell the CSR you need the Case to remain open due to what is transpiring and that you need that time. They can leave the Case open if they have documented they are still in contact and working out issues with the customer.
 

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Whatever you do - try to get anything discussed by you and the CSR (or RAV CSR if it goes that far) in writing. For instance if they say they can or will work with you after you return to the States, ask for their email and get them to document it in an email, otherwise it’s your word against theirs (even though they are supposed to document all conversations with the Customer unit their system by the assigned Case number).

When I went through my process - I emailed and saved all correspondences and also saved any voicemails - this way I was completely backed up by facts between me, Dealership, CSR or RAV.

It’s good they are working with you. Even though the car is repaired - they are giving it more time to see if you (customer) are either satisfied with the repair, if there’s any other concerns from the repair, if there’s new issues which will of course sway your decision to keep the vehicle OR if you still want to pursue the Buy Back.

Always follow up or call them - be proactive because if you don’t, you won’t hear back from them (more so after you get the car back). Some CSRs are great, others get lost in the shuffle of cusomters they are dealing with and aren’t so good with followups.

One more thing:
Do not let them close the Case! Tell the CSR you need the Case to remain open due to what is transpiring and that you need that time. They can leave the Case open if they have documented they are still in contact and working out issues with the customer.
Good advice! I’m going to email the CSR manager about what he told me and ask him to confirm.
 

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Got a call from the CSR manager yesterday - my buyback is approved! Thanks to Cobra Jet and everyone else who helped me with this process. I understand there’s still work ahead but at least I’m approved. Waiting for them to FedEx me the documents and call me in 5-6 days.

I could use some advice regarding my mods however... I read that I may be able to negotiate some money back from my mods but it’s pretty unlikely if it wasn’t dealer installed. I spent about $1,100 for my suspension mods (SP763 springs, Ford Racing track dampers, CB005 subframe lockout with alignment bushings) and $500 for shop to install. Should I just pay the shop another $500 to remove mods and reinstall my stock suspension so I can use these mods on my next Mustang? These mods have only about 5k miles on them. I would save about $600 this way instead of buying the same mods again. No way Ford will reimburse me that much if I trade it in like that right?

Also I have some damage to my front bumper from hitting a full trash bag on the freeway. I was checking my blind spot to merge right but there was a car coming up on my shoulder. When I looked ahead again I saw the bag in my lane but could not swerve to either lane or stomp on my brake because the car behind was really close. So I just slowed as much as I could and hit the bag. It broke the clip and popped off the at the right facing forward.

Got hit in the back on Sunday as well because the driver in car behind had his head down looking for something in his passenger seat and took foot off the brake by accident. I asked him for his insurance and he basically said no it’s just a small tap and I should stop holding up traffic. I asked again and he just reversed and swerved around me. Snapped a pic of his license and filed a police report but my insurance said there’s nothing I can do until I get this assholes insurance info. So just waiting for the police.

Anyway should I get a car damage estimate before I turn the car into Ford? If their cost to repair is higher than the estimate would I be able to get the car back to fix or get them to match the estimate? Thanks again for the help.
 

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Good to hear they authorized the Buy Back.

As for your questions regarding damages to the collateral that is to be returned, the below is exactly per RAV and the Dealership cannot deviate from the below during inspection of the vehicle:

Interior 1:
Any burn holes to interior upholstery OR any gouges on any interior soft/hard surface that is 1/8” or less is not chargeable to the customer.

Interior 2:
Any stains, cuts or tears to the upholstery seating surfaces that is less than 1/2” is not chargeable to the customer.

Tires:
Tires with 1/8” or more of tread remaining is not chargeable to the cusomter. Standard tread wear indicator tool can be used for measurement.

Exterior 1 / Body:
Dealer must place RAV Measurement card over any visible scratch, chip or dent. If that card completely covers that type of damage it’s not chargeable to the customer. The referred to “card” is approx 3”L x 2”W.

Exterior 2 / Lenses, Body moldings and Window trim:
If there are any scratches, dings or dents to these areas that are 2” or less, it is not chargeable to the customer.

Glass:
In the center of the measurement card there is a 1” circle. If there is any glass damage (chips, cracks etc) that fits into the circle each instance is a $50.00 charge to the customer. If a crack or chip exceeds the diameter of the circle OR there are more than (2) such occurances on the SAME piece of glass, the customer is charged the total cost to replace the glass.


Any damages to be assessed by the Ford Dealership and such repair costs to be paid by the customer will usually be based on cost to repair by Body Shop standards as well as cost of original new Ford replacement parts.

Any missing equipment, damages or abnormal wear to the vehicle, the Customer is responsible for the cost of repairs at the time of completing the Reacquired Vehicle Transaction - that means you either have to pay by cash, credit or roll the repair cost into the new loan. Ford RAV won’t let you complete the transaction until all monies are satisfied.
 
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My '18 is having a long block replacement and looks like it will be out of the shop before the 30 day mark. However I already started the buy back process and I'm awaiting Ford's decision. Does that mean I'm going to be declined?
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