Any success with adding Rockford Fosgate DSR1 to B&O “Premium” 12 speaker system???

[VolsLover94]

Well if you’re replying to this you know the question. My answer is I’ve had absolute hell with it! I’ve tried three different units and I’m convinced that it is not totally compatible with the B&O stereo system. My experience in short has been that it half-ass works the very first time it is powered on after flashing but the instant that you try to setup or adjust the tune with the BT app it does crazy, never consistent stuff (no sound on left or right, static, popping noise, low volume, NO volume, you name it, etc.) in addition to the app and/or BT connection crashing. And YES I have flashed and updated the DSR1 as directed (more than once) and have tried both Android and iPad in attempt to tune and add my setup. RF tech told me that I had a corrupt tune saved... hell I can’t successfully even get finished tuning before it goes haywire in some way to even have time to save a MF’ing tune! What’s the point in a DSP if you cannot adjust the settings? I am posting this thread in hopes that someone mIght enlighten me with their “trick” before I finally give up (which I already have!) on this SOB and send it back. (I really would like to set it up for target practice with the AR or .45, if it wasn’t so damn expensive!) Also, what other brand DSP’s (that allow addition of aftermarket amps) are unanimously and absolutely compatible with B&O through y’all’s personal experience.??? I have definitely given the DSR1 more than the benefit of the doubt through multiple tries, forsaking my patience, past the point of hair-pulling in the process!!! Thanks for y’all’s help (Hopefully)!!!

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[S550_Newbie]

Sounds like a faulty DSR1, I am sure you flashed it for your car and also flashed it with the blue tooth module. I used a DSR1 in my 2020 GT and had no issues at all after I learned that you can only connect to it via bluetooth once it is installed in the car, not powered up via an outside source. Are you also using the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness? Crutchfield says the FO2 is compatible with the B&O where as I had the 9 speaker system and used the FO3.

 

[m3incorp]

I've heard a few systems in Mustang that utlize it and it works fine.

 

[StangTime]

I've also seen a few members just return it and get a JL Twk-88 and never looked back and couldn't be happier. The DSR-1 is a toy compared to it.

 

[m3incorp]

If I was buying, it would be the JL Twk-88 along with the JL Fix-86 for DSP if not using JL Audio DSP amps.

I've also seen a few members just return it and get a JL Twk-88 and never looked back and couldn't be happier. The DSR-1 is a toy compared to it.

 

[StangTime]

If I was buying, it would be the JL Twk-88 along with the JL Fix-86 for DSP if not using JL Audio DSP amps.

Yes but you don't really need the JL Fix-86 because Forscan is free and an ODBII interface is cheap. Remove the factory EQ right at the head unit by changing one code.

 

[S550_Newbie]

Yes but you don't really need the JL Fix-86 because Forscan is free and an ODBII interface is cheap. Remove the factory EQ right at the head unit by changing one code.

I replaced everything except the head unit using my own amps and the DSR1, it sounds freaking amazing. 100W per channel x 8 and 600W x 1 for the sub. Pulled the factory craptastic amp out of the car all together. I liked the DSR1 better than I like my D6.1200.

 

[Jaymar]

Yes but you don't really need the JL Fix-86 because Forscan is free and an ODBII interface is cheap. Remove the factory EQ right at the head unit by changing one code.

This first and foremost. But then if you need more control you only need one of the two, Fix and Twk are functionally similar units. Fix automates the front end then allows you to tweak the backend while Twk is fully manual and probably better left to a guy using an RTA to make adjustments.

 

[Jaymar]

OP, forgive me I'm not completely familiar with all the units currently on the market. I've been out of the game for at least 10 years.

First and foremost, double check the polarity of all of your inputs. A few people have posted the OEM stereo wiring diagram here before and that covers post and pre amplifier. That is the quickest way to tank any autocal device during calibration.

Second, and this is where I'm not familiar with the RF unit, make sure you are using the input on the calibration unit designed for the signal that you grabbed i.e. low level for before amp or high level after the amp. I'd recommend going with pre amplifier signals but that can also introduce other complexities. If you are using amplified signal after the amp, make sure you have summed all the appropriate channels, each front has three, because if the unit sees signals that don't sum to full frequency signal it will also tank the calibration.

 

[m3incorp]

There is whole lot more to tuning than flattening the built in EQ. You want to tune so that each speaker produces exactly what you want , when you want it to and allow it to be placed spactially where you want it.

Yes but you don't really need the JL Fix-86 because Forscan is free and an ODBII interface is cheap. Remove the factory EQ right at the head unit by changing one code.

 

[m3incorp]

They do have some similar functions but do differ any many ways. I agree that proper tuning is best left to someonthat has the proper tools and knowledge.

This first and foremost. But then if you need more control you only need one of the two, Fix and Twk are functionally similar units. Fix automates the front end then allows you to tweak the backend while Twk is fully manual and probably better left to a guy using an RTA to make adjustments.

 

[krishelnino]

I had the DSR-1 for few weeks, and wished the product worked fine but I had so many issues with it. returned and got the Helix DSP .3 - haven't looked back again, couldn't be much happier

 

[VolsLover94]

Sounds like a faulty DSR1, I am sure you flashed it for your car and also flashed it with the blue tooth module. I used a DSR1 in my 2020 GT and had no issues at all after I learned that you can only connect to it via bluetooth once it is installed in the car, not powered up via an outside source. Are you also using the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness? Crutchfield says the FO2 is compatible with the B&O where as I had the 9 speaker system and used the FO3.

Yes, and yes and by reflashing to factory defaults is the only way to get it to “work” again. I did have one that was for sure bad because it would never even come back on after a flashing but after requesting a replacement, Crutchfield accidentally sent me two more and I have tried both of them and they are both doing the same crazy shit! I even had a replacement aF02 harness to make sure it wasn’t the culprit. When they are first powered on it will make sounds and at least think the nightmare is over. But after connecting and losing BT connection repeatedly (no matter if Apple or Android) while trying to set crossover values you finally just want to turn the car off to save fuel and your sanity. The one totally consistent thing with the DSR1 besides the lack of BT reliability is that once you finally turn the car off you can bet the farm that you will have even worse problems the next time you push that Bullseye Start button! After a while you get anxious in hopes to tuning your new system to perfection through PERFECT Tune.... and dammit the same old bullshit (not my Bullitt) different push of the button! I I guess technically it works... maybe if you don’t touch the settings....but I thought the point of a DSP was to adjust the settings for that ,,,,,oh boy.... PERFECT TUNE! The fact that all of the speakers play at first and only after cycling power once causes absolute bedlam (which has been one of the few consistent things with this POS) tells my aging, feeble mind that I do not have a wiring issue at least within the harnesses! Hell I am an electrician by trade and have installed and wired extremely complex and expensive equipment, devices, PLCS, Etc. I think I can handle and audio system with perfectly laid out directions. It has to be some type of computer BS glitch/bug with the 2019 model year or possibly my damn Stang is the only one that isn’t compatible in the entire world. But by looking at the negative ratings on the DSR1 and especially the PerfectTune app. I severely doubt that I am the only one to have had a poor experience... the fact that they have not had an update in over two years means that they do not give a shit about fixing issues it as long as they keep selling them. Maybe it just doesn’t like my VIN number, that’s it, I figured it out! But since they are not willing to correct the problems their customers are having, even if only a few a month, then all I can do is demand a refund in full immediately!!! Im gonna try a totally different product not because I want to do this for hours on end without a sound to play besides the beautiful sound of my exhaust in track mode, but because I am at a huge loss if I can’t get my system going... can’t even use the phone or navigation until it’s resolved. But in the meantime I will plug the old amp into my new speakers just to make damn sure that everything is ok because I am NOT perfect but have already done this since having the problems so I am rather confident in the wiring. The company i-datalink Maestro is the only manufacturer of products to allow the connection to aftermarket amplifiers with my factory system. The bad news is they were co-developers with Rockford Fosgate on the DSR1 project. Therefore , I’m hoping like hell that the Rockford Fosgate part of the disastrous DSR1 co-venture is the main reason for it being the non reliable POS that it is! The DSR1 has been a total waste of my time and extremely frustrating. Hopefully the next product I try works flawlessly! I will definitely let the STANG world know all about it either way! Damn I hope it ain’t just my one lonely Bullitt with these issues!!! I’m sorry for such a long ass rant! Hopefully this helps some buyers to beware of DSR1 if you have a 2019 Mustang with 12-speaker B&O audio and have other options. Keep on grabbing 3rd ladies and gents!

 

[Cathul]

Yes but you don't really need the JL Fix-86 because Forscan is free and an ODBII interface is cheap. Remove the factory EQ right at the head unit by changing one code.

Doesn't work with the current B&O system as it uses a data protocol to control the amplifier.
That's why you need a Maestro AR, DSR1 or a Pac-Audio AmpPro for these cars.
And yes, this is different to the first iteration of the Mustang B&O system where it just was a relabeled shaker with a bigger subwoofer driver with variable line output.

@VolsLover94: get a Pac-Audio AP4-FD21 and use any DSP that you want.

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21

 

[StangTime]

Doesn't work with the current B&O system as it uses a data protocol to control the amplifier.
That's why you need a Maestro AR, DSR1 or a Pac-Audio AmpPro for these cars.
And yes, this is different to the first iteration of the Mustang B&O system where it just was a relabeled shaker with a bigger subwoofer driver with variable line output.

@VolsLover94: get a Pac-Audio AP4-FD21 and use any DSP that you want.

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21

Yikes. I had no idea the new B&O is even MORE integrated into the car. Ford... SMH.

The AmpPRO can be fitted with an optical toslink output. Very nice!

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