marklboris
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- Jul 16, 2019
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- Sonora, CA
- First Name
- Mark
- Vehicle(s)
- ______ '20 Shelby GT500 FPB '21 Mach-E GTPE IS
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Thought I would start a thread of minor issues I have found with my car in the 10 days of ownership. I figured it may be of interest to some and also others can post what they have found so we can maybe benefit from this.
I am not in any way bagging on this car as I really love it but most of these things or maybe all of them were due to the way it was put together. My car's final assembly was on Friday, February 28th so that may have something to do with it.
I did not take photos of each of the issues even though I meant to.
We all know of the heater hose problem and mine also had it. Wasn't too difficult of a fix. Just had to support the hood while I removed the tower brace which has the hood support shock attached.
On the B Pillar right behind the drivers door, the inside panel (large rear quarter panel next to the rear seat) was not fully snapped into place. The edge of the panel is supposed to be tight against the weather stripping but it wasn't. I had to pull the panel off anyway since I was tearing apart the entire interior to sound deaden it and found that when it was assembled, two of the white plastic pins were bent and obviously not going into the holes they were intended to go.
When removing the lower cushion of the rear seat, there are two plastic levers you easily push back and it unsnaps the cushion and you pull it right out. One of the plastic levers was broken so in order for me to remove the seat I had to use a screwdriver to finagle down in where the catch is to remove it. After removing the seat, I found the broken plastic latch. The way it must of happened is when the seat was installed, the latch was not properly in the hole and the seat was pushed down anyway.
After removing the rear seat, under both sides are wires that go down into the top of the fuel tanks. They go into a rubber boot and should be snapped into place so that it keeps the noise and air out of coming into the interior. One of them was not in place.
The drivers side kick panel was bulging out a bit just under the hood release at the bottom where it come close to the edge of the carpet. After taking the panel off, I found the main wiring loom that comes down inside that panel, going to the rear of the car has a strain relieve pin attached to it and was supposed to be pushed into a bracket that was about an inch away. This would hold the loom back against the body of the car and not sticking out and pushing the kick panel out like it was.
In removing the drivers Recaro seat, I found one of the two plugs had a wire that had been cut and two others were damaged but not cut through. This plug was not being used as it is for the power connections for the sport seats that have power, heating and cooling. Even though this plug was not being used, I am not sure if there is still power going to this plug so I was concerned when I saw the bare cut wire there. The reason this happened is that this plug is supposed to be attached to a clip to keep it out of the way of the seat rail but it wasn't and in moving the seat back and forth it got in the way.
The window in the passenger door when opened makes a rattle sound. The drivers door is completely quiet when opened. Since I had to take the door panels off anyways because I was changing the trim on them and sound deadening the doors, I adjusted one of the window rails so the window would not move and rattle when the door was opened.
The lid on the fuse box in the engine compartment does not stay up when you open it. In fact mine would not even open past 45˚ so I had to reroute the battery negative cable wire around the fuse box loom behind the box (as shown in the photo below) to allow the lid to open fully and stay open. This is not a big deal but I would think the lid should at least open fully so you can get to the fuses easier.
When installing the resonator delete x-pipe, I looked over at the DCT and saw a wiring loom resting against a very sharp edge on a metal bracket. The loom was very tight against this bracket and I could not see how this could be good over time and in feeling the edge it was definitely sharp. I took a pair of pliers and slightly bent down the edge of the bracket to allow a bit of space between it and the loom.
While I was replacing both headlamps, first thing I noticed was two of the three screws on the drivers side headlamp were loose. What I mean by loose is they were finger tight, not even snug tight. Second, behind the passenger headlamp is a plastic tube that supplies the fluid for the windshield washer nozzles. It has three strain relieve pin supports attached to it. None of the three supports where in the holes they were supposed to be in so that hose was just moving around back there.
When I opened the glove box for the first time, I thought it was kind of weird that is just flopped down hard. Most all of my other cars/trucks in the past few years had damped door openings where it comes down slowly when opened. Looking inside the glove box, I saw the plastic gear/wheel that is supposed to be attached to the arm on the right side that allows the glove box to come down slowly. Bringing the glove box down out of the dash and installing the gear and arm was an easy fix though.
I am not in any way bagging on this car as I really love it but most of these things or maybe all of them were due to the way it was put together. My car's final assembly was on Friday, February 28th so that may have something to do with it.
I did not take photos of each of the issues even though I meant to.
We all know of the heater hose problem and mine also had it. Wasn't too difficult of a fix. Just had to support the hood while I removed the tower brace which has the hood support shock attached.
On the B Pillar right behind the drivers door, the inside panel (large rear quarter panel next to the rear seat) was not fully snapped into place. The edge of the panel is supposed to be tight against the weather stripping but it wasn't. I had to pull the panel off anyway since I was tearing apart the entire interior to sound deaden it and found that when it was assembled, two of the white plastic pins were bent and obviously not going into the holes they were intended to go.
When removing the lower cushion of the rear seat, there are two plastic levers you easily push back and it unsnaps the cushion and you pull it right out. One of the plastic levers was broken so in order for me to remove the seat I had to use a screwdriver to finagle down in where the catch is to remove it. After removing the seat, I found the broken plastic latch. The way it must of happened is when the seat was installed, the latch was not properly in the hole and the seat was pushed down anyway.
After removing the rear seat, under both sides are wires that go down into the top of the fuel tanks. They go into a rubber boot and should be snapped into place so that it keeps the noise and air out of coming into the interior. One of them was not in place.
The drivers side kick panel was bulging out a bit just under the hood release at the bottom where it come close to the edge of the carpet. After taking the panel off, I found the main wiring loom that comes down inside that panel, going to the rear of the car has a strain relieve pin attached to it and was supposed to be pushed into a bracket that was about an inch away. This would hold the loom back against the body of the car and not sticking out and pushing the kick panel out like it was.
In removing the drivers Recaro seat, I found one of the two plugs had a wire that had been cut and two others were damaged but not cut through. This plug was not being used as it is for the power connections for the sport seats that have power, heating and cooling. Even though this plug was not being used, I am not sure if there is still power going to this plug so I was concerned when I saw the bare cut wire there. The reason this happened is that this plug is supposed to be attached to a clip to keep it out of the way of the seat rail but it wasn't and in moving the seat back and forth it got in the way.
The window in the passenger door when opened makes a rattle sound. The drivers door is completely quiet when opened. Since I had to take the door panels off anyways because I was changing the trim on them and sound deadening the doors, I adjusted one of the window rails so the window would not move and rattle when the door was opened.
The lid on the fuse box in the engine compartment does not stay up when you open it. In fact mine would not even open past 45˚ so I had to reroute the battery negative cable wire around the fuse box loom behind the box (as shown in the photo below) to allow the lid to open fully and stay open. This is not a big deal but I would think the lid should at least open fully so you can get to the fuses easier.
When installing the resonator delete x-pipe, I looked over at the DCT and saw a wiring loom resting against a very sharp edge on a metal bracket. The loom was very tight against this bracket and I could not see how this could be good over time and in feeling the edge it was definitely sharp. I took a pair of pliers and slightly bent down the edge of the bracket to allow a bit of space between it and the loom.
While I was replacing both headlamps, first thing I noticed was two of the three screws on the drivers side headlamp were loose. What I mean by loose is they were finger tight, not even snug tight. Second, behind the passenger headlamp is a plastic tube that supplies the fluid for the windshield washer nozzles. It has three strain relieve pin supports attached to it. None of the three supports where in the holes they were supposed to be in so that hose was just moving around back there.
When I opened the glove box for the first time, I thought it was kind of weird that is just flopped down hard. Most all of my other cars/trucks in the past few years had damped door openings where it comes down slowly when opened. Looking inside the glove box, I saw the plastic gear/wheel that is supposed to be attached to the arm on the right side that allows the glove box to come down slowly. Bringing the glove box down out of the dash and installing the gear and arm was an easy fix though.
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