Any minor issues with your new GT500?

[marklboris]

I am sure it would be a pain to replace the entire loom but since I have no intention of using that plug, it is not an issue. I only listed some of these things for others to check in case they were into the car as much as I have been. I would think that others with the Recaro seats may want to look under them to make sure this unused connector is secured properly to the strain relief clip close to the carpet and away from the seat mechanism.

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[AngelDeath]

Mike: So what did they say after that? :-)

Well to their credit they just shook their head about the plant and why it past them, but my guy quietly said to me when I asked him since he saw i wasn't being a d!ck about it: "The prep guys here really dont look at anything like that, they just unwrap the seats and whatnot".

 

[marklboris]

Since I have not put the seats back in yet, I just took a photo of what I did. It is the connector on the right that I fixed the broken wire, taped it up then zip tied it back to itself so it would be long enough to get in the way of the seat rails and secured it under that black clip coming out of the carpet. Funny thing is, the passenger seat also has two connections but both of them are connected to the Recaro seat.

 

[IPOGT]

I don't know where to ask this question so I will ask it right here. Is there a reason that we did not get ambient lighting in this car? Why would the regular Mustangs, GT's, Ecoboost's etc. get the cool ambient lighting in the footwells, door latches, door bins, cup holders etc. and not us? I am at least going to add ice blue LED lighting in the foot wells when I get around to it.

Same reason that 2016 was the only year for hood turn signals and performance packs weren't offered in automatic cars.
Next upgrade GT500 will probably offer it as a package.

 

[Jmeo]

I am not sure if these two things qualify for this thread, or are just a problem with my OCD?

The Exhaust tips were not even from side to side. They were out by almost 1/2".

Before

After

The exhaust actuator harnesses are silver and show through the rear valance.

Before

After

 

[marklboris]

Hey Jaime, yes I think it belongs here and yours were worse than mine. On my left side the tips were level, while the right side the right tip was lower than the left one. After removing the resonator and replacing the x-pipe, I was able to get them fairly even before I tightened the clamps. But now I would like to have it welded so they don't move on me beings they are clamped.

 

[gfcobra04]

More than half my time on the resonator delete was spent trying to get the exhaust tips level. I used the rolling bridge jacks on my lift to support the resonator delete and mufflers. Even with these the tips move every time I released the jacks.

 

[marklboris]

I agree with that. I said that in the resonator delete thread that the easy part was replacing the pipe. The hard part was getting the exhaust tips straight. While they are straight now, not sure how long they will last. When things settle down I will take the car to the muffler shop and have them welded so I know they won't move.

 

[Epiphany]

....I would like to have it welded so they don't move on me beings they are clamped.

You pretty much have to drop the system due to having to weld up the expansion slots at the end of the Lethal res delete pipe. Finished doing that yesterday and am taking advantage of the extra room to clean the underside of the car and to swap in the CFTP springs and bar.

 

[OH3Cobra]

nice write up - you should go into QC for Ford. Ford needs to take note here and work preventive steps into their MFG process

 

[The Chairman]

I noticed my left front rim has a scrape/gouge on the inside. Wonder if the tire mounting machine did this:

 

[The Chairman]

The lid on the fuse box in the engine compartment does not stay up when you open it. In fact mine would not even open past 45˚ so I had to reroute the battery negative cable wire around the fuse box loom behind the box (as shown in the photo below) to allow the lid to open fully and stay open. This is not a big deal but I would think the lid should at least open fully so you can get to the fuses easier.

My wiring by the fuse box doesn’t look anything like yours:

 

[kilobravo]

would think that others with the Recaro seats may want to look under them to make sure this unused connector is secured properly to the strain relief clip close to the carpet and away from the seat mechanism.

You would be correct in my case, Mark. The next time I pull the cover, I'm gonna have a look see.

The Exhaust tips were not even from side to side. They were out by almost 1/2".

Yessiree, I have now met someone who who more acutely suffers from OCD than I, Jaime! <smiling>

Tips added to my ToDo list and ditto for the diffuser cables. Was it a pain to remove?

The prep guys here really dont look at anything like that, they just unwrap the seats and whatnot".

Mike: As sad as it is, on the bright side, it's nice to see that there are some honest people out there.

Funny thing is, the passenger seat also has two connections but both of them are connected to the Recaro seat.

I'm sure you'll figure this out, Mark but on the surface, that seems very strange.

I noticed my left front rim has a scrape/gouge on the inside. Wonder if the tire mounting machine did this:

Damn that sucks, Don! Mighty sorry my friend and with my limited knowledge, the mounting machine idea is the only one that seems plausible.

The Tomster has previously mentioned that he got a rock between the wheel and the caliper and it gouged the rim much like that. I can't quite tell if that's a front or rear, Don but obviously, the rock theory is much more likely in front. I sure hope it was the machine AND, that the outfit that did the mounting owns it.

 

[Jmeo]

Jaime Was it a pain to remove?

No, very easy. At the front edge of it (where it connects to the exhaust hangers) there are two 10mm bolts. You can take them out and the assembly will stay in place because the feet clip into the exhaust hangers.

At the rear edge (up against rear diffuser) there are two more 10mm bolts and about six 7mm bolts. Lastly there are 2 push pins here as well which hold the assembly in place.

When ready simply pull down on the rear half, releasing the push pins, then unhook the front clips from the exhaust hangers.

It can be put back up, and it will stay in place for the same reasons mentioned above. Then put all the hardware back.

 

[Epiphany]

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