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Any furnace guys here? won't fire with cover on. Lol wtf

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The vents are clear, both exhaust and intake. I double checked, sucking air with shop vac it’s free flowing on other side.

brand new air filter, I even removed air filter to test.
So a switch or blower is my culprit from reading

costly?
I don’t know what it means to close a switch. But I read ruud or any company, it’s doing a prsssure check and failing

when it’s opened. The pressure check is functioning

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From the sounds of all this, you may need to get someone to check it out. More than likely the pressure switch is the culprit. Or something more serious such as a clogged secondary heat exchanger. Honestly, the blower and filter don't have much to do with any of this. If it was the high temp limit, then yes. But not the pressure switch. That is, unless you have a hole in the heat exchanger or something crazy, which I doubt. But I've seen a lot over the years. Expect the unexpected.

Don't let them try to sell you a new furnace. Lots of Residential outfits push for that because they make more money selling new equipment vs repairing old. And if something doesn't seem right, get a second opinion. Let me know if you have any questions about what they say.
 
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I paid a guy after I went through everything over and out

hecharged $50 to inspect he put blame on the pressure switches, taught me a bit about it.

After he left I saw the smallest darn crack on redsilicone hose connected to the pressure switch
I called local place asked if I can buy silicone hose they told me no.
Said I have to be licensed to buy a small hose

wtf?

went to aurozone. 1.99 vacuum hose.

she works perfect. I guess somehow the hose threw off the pressure. It’s weird by opening the vent it equalized the pressure. No clue

but she works now fully sealed

total spent
50 for guy to look- but he didn’t find the issue. He was actually trying to blame heat exchanger lol. And motherboard. Whstdger

2 dollar kit kat
2 dollar hose

he actually broke the little clip off the wire that clipped to pressure switch, he clamped a new one on and put some electrical tape around it, meh whatever it works.

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Glad you got it fixed. Trying to figure out why your intake and exhaust pipes are connected at the wall in that larger pipe. Usually these run to the outside individually. Just curious. Perhaps that through-wall pipe is chambered?
Okay, I researched and it is a concentric pipe. I been schooled.
 
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So furnace has been fine for a week, fires up on own and everything. Now periodically I hear it taking a few times to ignite. Like knock knock knock then tries again and ignites.

One morning, it had locked itself out for an hour I went down saw 1 blink, which says hour lockout.

now I do recall it doing the knock here and there over last few yeara.

should I book a repair diagnoses or should I pay for a tune up? Diagnose is 89, andtune up is 119.

but it doesn’t do knocking everytime so I’m thinking a tune up maybe needed and should fix that

I’m not sure if inspection is same as tune up. But the special is “furnace inspection,$119”
 
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I paid a guy after I went through everything over and out

hecharged $50 to inspect he put blame on the pressure switches, taught me a bit about it.

After he left I saw the smallest darn crack on redsilicone hose connected to the pressure switch
I called local place asked if I can buy silicone hose they told me no.
Said I have to be licensed to buy a small hose

wtf?

went to aurozone. 1.99 vacuum hose.

she works perfect. I guess somehow the hose threw off the pressure. It’s weird by opening the vent it equalized the pressure. No clue

but she works now fully sealed

total spent
50 for guy to look- but he didn’t find the issue. He was actually trying to blame heat exchanger lol. And motherboard. Whstdger

2 dollar kit kat
2 dollar hose

he actually broke the little clip off the wire that clipped to pressure switch, he clamped a new one on and put some electrical tape around it, meh whatever it works.

483E3CCE-B930-4314-BA1D-30C20B6A4A3B.jpeg

I can see that a cracked hose being the bad actor. Good find.
BTW we all know hoses are really really hight tech components that only a licensed professional could even possibly think about replacing.

What crap, anyway heat is good, was just thinking about this post the other day......... warm house cold beer LOL

Cheers
 

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Not even close to know what I'm talking about but sounds like dust/ residues somewhere
 
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Not even close to know what I'm talking about but sounds like dust/ residues somewhere
I went ahead called the company, 120 is tune up. Said they are sending a senior tech too as well to look for issues while tuning up.

So 30 bucks more than a diagnose/trip I’m getting a full cleaning/inspection/lube.
Just for piece of mind. I’ve been here 5 years and done nothing but change filter and replace that hose

he’s prob going to comment on my hose maybe he has some on his truck
 

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My field is in industrial, however a rubber or plastic hose doesn't make much difference to a pressure switch, as long as it fits snug on the connector. Just like a fuel line or vacuum hose on your car. Your unit does not look old, so I would not replace it, unless your heat exchanger is cracked and carbon monoxide is detected from your registers. Sometimes the control boards fault and can be expensive to replace. Then it is a toss up as to replace the unit or the board. Seems that your unit issue may have been the hose, given that the unit is working after you replaced it. I suspect the switch has dust in it or it is on the verge of failure. I didn't see if you left the access panel loose after you replaced the hose. Interested in what the technician comes up with...
 
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My field is in industrial, however a rubber or plastic hose doesn't make much difference to a pressure switch, as long as it fits snug on the connector. Just like a fuel line or vacuum hose on your car. Your unit does not look old, so I would not replace it, unless your heat exchanger is cracked and carbon monoxide is detected from your registers. Sometimes the control boards fault and can be expensive to replace. Then it is a toss up as to replace the unit or the board. Seems that your unit issue may have been the hose, given that the unit is working after you replaced it. I suspect the switch has dust in it or it is on the verge of failure. I didn't see if you left the access panel loose after you replaced the hose. Interested in what the technician comes up with...
after I replaced the hose, I 100%tightened panel up. And it’s working fine since.

the issue now is periodically it makes the knock noise(gas valves) failure to ignite each attempt. Like occasionally it will require 2nd or 3rd attempt to fire.

it works though, so I’m hoping the tune up will get it all running up to par. Butyeah, the hose did fix the initial issue of not running.
Just want it to run its best now for many more years to come as it runs and heats beautiful. Just need it to do it everytime
 

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I pay for spring and fall checkups with a neighborhood contractor and it's only $200 for the year, which includes new humidifier pads and other items. They will then come out 24/7 for no extra charge if something goes haywire. I moved into this house with a 12 year old furnace 3 years ago and have been nursing it along. They have replaced a few cheap components along the way that keep it running efficiently. Your guys may find some things that don't test out and are causing the delayed start. Hopefully, it is all easy and cheap. I'm not replacing my furnace and A/C until it croaks.
 

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My propane valve was bad, it was stuck closed. When it got a signal to open and flow the gas...the ignition was on but no heat and it switched off and blew a 5 amp fuse on a furnace control board. I had to get a new valve put in and it worked.
 
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Last update, paid mcafee to come out, the guy was senior tech he actually used to be the person who serviced it before I bought house 4-5 years ago. I paid $120 he spent a whole hour plus cleaning it all out, looking at everything. He found a couple small things like an insulator or something was grounding, fixed and cleaned valves and igniter stuff. He found in the intake a shit ton of spider webs, even though my shop vac pulled air, he showed me them, we cleaned it all out.

running. Like a damn champ! He said the vacuum hose I put on there was just fine, he left it. Said it’s really not much different from their hose they use.

Anyway it runs everytime; hasn’t made the clunk fail to ignite noise (even though it wasn’t common) he said it being grounding like that can cause intermittent failure to spark or ark or something.

He also said my heat exchanger looks pretty healthy, my furnace was installed 07, but says my furnace in his opinion from ruud was one of their best furnaces and last well beyond the typical servicing typically seen. He said I very well could get another 5-10 more years.

I asked him about the yearly plan, he said do what I’m doing just pay the turn up every couple yearsusually saves $ in long run vs maintenance everyyear in a monthly installment.

that was his suggestion as my furnaceis healthy

I’m on iPhone and sorry for typo errors. Blower motor was installed in 15-16 by him lol
 

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Heat is good, that was a good tune up....
 

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Nice. I had two Ruuds in my last home. They make great furnaces. Hope it lasts a long time.
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