Another NA car breaks diff bolts...

shogun32

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just need to pick up a good HSS 16mm bit, cover is aluminum it should drill out easily. I’ll check the forward face of the ears for flatness and square with the hole, may need to be cleaned up a bit to mate well with a washer and nut.
just shim the rear bushing and use a 14mm thru-bolt. No the 'nut' side (forward face of ear) of the casting is not flat. Nor clearanced for a M14x1.5 standard hex nut. I would not change the bolt to M16.

The correct answer is to shim the bushing or better yet just rip them all out and put in Delrin or WhiteLine's kit.
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80FoxCoupe

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80FoxCoupe

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Nope. Experience.
Ah, so you have ran the full BMR catalog and made documented comparisons versus the competition. Post up your findings?



Seriously tho, some companies make better specific parts than others. Individuals may favor one design over another. But to say anything from BMR sucks is just silly. Upside is that we have plenty of manufacturers that make the same parts and have a variety to choose from.
 

WildHorse

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But to say anything from BMR sucks is just silly.
Ya you got me there. My bad. However IMO subquality parts. The ones I've installed (springs & various rear suspension components) didn't last a year. Due to accelerated wear/tear, or unbearable squeeks, rattles, groans after a short period of time. And no I haven't ran the gambet, because frankly most suspension parts sold by whatever company is gimmicky. However if my rear stuff is any indication, I'd wager front end components will be the same.
 

KellTrac

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I use a larger (than 9/16" or 14mm) hardware kit on my car that requires drilling all the things. Front diff ears, rear diff ears, bushings etc. I will attach some images in the post following this one. Works great. :)

Ya you got me there. My bad. However IMO subquality parts. The ones I've installed (springs & various rear suspension components) didn't last a year. Due to accelerated wear/tear, or unbearable squeeks, rattles, groans after a short period of time. And no I haven't ran the gambet, because frankly most suspension parts sold by whatever company is gimmicky. However if my rear stuff is any indication, I'd wager front end components will be the same.
Now that's fake fanboi news, 100%. LOL
 

WildHorse

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Now that's fake fanboi news, 100%. LOL
Fake eh ? Let's talk about fake. Aren't you supposedly revalving viking shocks and slapping your seal on them and calling them your very own ?
 

KellTrac

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Fake eh ? Let's talk about fake. Aren't you supposedly revalving viking shocks and slapping your seal on them and calling them your very own ?
Not exactly, but close. When the entire world is being pushed on valving that is not specifically what they need, someone's gotta do it. My results speak loud and clear, thank you for asking.

👍
 

aleccolin

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Here ya go.

KTI-HWK15RDA.jpg


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The areas that need to be clearanced:

202159721_328316328941637_6128903814774512839_n.jpg


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This is the only option that ultimately makes any sense to me. I've decided to drop the diff when I replace the axles, install a GT350 diff cover for oil cooling, and drill and through-bolt everything. Probably also going to bolt a pinion snubber to the cross member, because I'm keeping the medium durometer diff mount inserts for low NVH.

Thanks a bunch for the pics, very helpful
 

NGOT8R

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To add to all of this, I installed a through bolt kit from Steeda on my ‘19 Bullitt and I didn’t have to clearance the ears on the diff. However, the difference between my installation and KellTrac’s is; he drilled through and enlarged the hole for a larger bolt, whereas on mine, I used the existing threads in the ears. Having said that, Steeda’s instructions did indicate that if using a nut on the through bolt was desired, then the area shown in KellTrac’s photos would need to be clearanced. Just wanted to show that there were two different ways of doing this mod.

87AD0F1F-912E-42E6-B52F-2CCEB65116A5.jpeg
 

aleccolin

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To add to all of this, I installed a through bolt kit from Steeda on my ‘19 Bullitt and I didn’t have to clearance the ears on the diff. However, the difference between my installation and KellTrac’s is; he drilled through and enlarged the hole for a larger bolt, whereas on mine, I used the existing threads in the ears. Having said that, Steeda’s instructions did indicate that if using a nut on the through bolt was desired, then the area shown in KellTrac’s photos would need to be clearanced. Just wanted to show that there were two different ways of doing this mod.

87AD0F1F-912E-42E6-B52F-2CCEB65116A5.jpeg
If you used the existing threads in the diff ear, how is that different than the OE design other than using a stronger bolt? A through-bolt design would require a nut, period.
 

NGOT8R

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If you used the existing threads in the diff ear, how is that different than the OE design other than using a stronger bolt? A through-bolt design would require a nut, period.
I’m no engineer, but I see the difference being a stronger and longer bolt. It’s been almost a year now since I installed mine, but I don’t believe the factory bolt went the full depth of the ear. Maybe Steeda, or someone who is in the process of doing this mod will chime in and confirm such. Lastly, the only way I would clearance the ears on my diff. would be on a mill, not with a grinder or Dremel, as I would want to make sure that the same amount of material was removed from each ear and that it looked intentional, as opposed to just good enough to work.
 

NGOT8R

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Another thing that comes to mind with drilling is, it would seem that the potential for the bolt to walk in the hole could exist, causing the hole to wallow out over time, where is using the existing threads makes for a tight fit in the hole, thus eliminating the likelihood of wallowing out the hole. Not saying one way is the right way to do it and the other is the wrong way, but just the way I visualize it in my mind.
 
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