== CALIPERS ==If I need to post the part numbers for gray, black, red and orange Brembo calipers let me know.
My two cents after doing this back in the fall. Everything factory, prices aren't terrible especially with places like Levittown online pricing.I'm in the market for upgrading my 17 GT brakes after tracking my car a couple of months ago. To be fair, my GT is my daily driver, and I'm only planning on tracking it every couple of months.
Out of curiosity, today I called my local dealer asking for the Bullitt brembos, gave them the PNs, and they quoted me a phenomenal price, and paid (if the deal is legit, I can post details later).
Since the parts salesperson wasn't able to find the words 'red' and/or 'bullitt' in the part description, he said that when the brakes arrive, if they aren't the ones I wanted, they can keep the calipers, and I can get a refund. In all honesty, as long as they are the 6pot ones, I'd keep them, regardless of color.
IF they are indeed the 6 pot brembos, I figured I'd need the following (thanks to the people who have posted about this, and Levittown Ford)[If these are correct, I'd get a quote from the dealership as well, before buying online]:
- Caliper Pin Kit - FR3Z-2068-C (x2): 'generic' hardware kits such as the Steeda, Raybestos, or even RockAuto would work exactly the same, correct?
- Left & Right Splash Shield - FR3Z-2K005-H & FR3Z-2K004-H
- Gaskets W711784-S300 (x4)
- Front 15" Rotors - KR3Z-1125-G (x2) [Still unsure if I want slotted (or drilled) ones, the OEM ones, or if I should get OEM quality replacements]
- Pads (was thinking Z23 or Z26)
- I understand my brake lines will work on the brembos, correct? (Yes I'm planning on upgrading the fluid too, was thinking Motul 660)
HOWEVER, if they aren't the 6 piston ones, I thought I would just keep my 4 piston ones and just upgrade the rotors & pads. (Let's face it, although not as good as the Brembos, the stock Continentals aren't too shabby).
Is there a way to improve the cooling in the 14" rotors (as in, for example, would the splash shields from the PP fit a 14" rotor)? Sure, I understand slotted rotors is a great improvement, and that is what I'm leaning towards.
Can you explain? Maybe some other factors are also at play. But I came from a base GT, have Brembo brakes and have not had any brake issues related to this yet. I have about 8 track days with this setup so far on various tracks.Nope, I tried multiple combos.
Gotta do the PP Master and Booster if you're tracking it.
If just street driving, you can get away without it.
the issue was pedal travel, right? I did a piston ratio calculation.Gotta do the PP Master and Booster if you're tracking it.
My variables are GLOC R18's, Motul 600, no splash shields, PP undertray, and Vorshlag air deflectors.Can you explain? Maybe some other factors are also at play. But I came from a base GT, have Brembo brakes and have not had any brake issues related to this yet. I have about 8 track days with this setup so far on various tracks.
Ah, very interesting. I'll have to pay more attention to brake pedal consistency this year. I haven't noticed anything obvious yet. You are running more aggressive pads than I and probably better tires too.My variables are GLOC R18's, Motul 600, no splash shields, PP undertray, and Vorshlag air deflectors.
I'm a left foot braker whenever possible so I'm on the brakes faster and harder often with throttle overlap. Pedal travel was inconsistent. I swapped the PP Master. Pedal travel got consistent and firm, but booster response on application and release was inconsistent. I swapped to the PP booster and all was good in the world again.
I came from a 2019 PP2 running same setup so I knew what "right" should feel like.
If manual and you're swapping master, get a Auto PP Master and run the clutch line to a separate GM reservoir. I just zip tied it to the Auto PP reservoir. Works great.
The inconsistency almost leads me to believe it's the PP setup is more prone to knock back?
NahMan that’s a great deal. We’re they red? I got used black ones for like $550 lol