Another '18 Coyote engine to bite the dust. (Buy back accepted)

[CB18]

I had my car one day and 49 miles on it. In the morning I'm going out for a cruise. I check the oil and fire it up. The engine symbol in the dash stays on. To the dealership I go. I get the car back four days later. It was the oil pressure sending unit. But in the car apps., the oil pressure and temperature read normal. I've worked on many cars, trucks and equipment and I never had an oil pressure sensor bad until now. So any bad electrical device on these cars wouldn't surprise me now.

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[5OhSilver]

Update: So there is still no tick but something worse has happened unfortunately. My car died in the middle of driving it last night on my way home from work. Engine code P0300 (Misfire) P0390 (Camshaft position sensor failure) and P0394 (Crankshaft position sensor failure). Car went into limp mode after restarting the engine. The car is now back at the dealer. I will update as soon as I hear something from Ford. Still no ticking though.

 

[accel]

Update: So there is still no tick but something worse has happened unfortunately. My car died in the middle of driving it last night on my way home from work. Engine code P0300 (Misfire) P0390 (Camshaft position sensor failure) and P0394 (Crankshaft position sensor failure). Car went into limp mode after restarting the engine. The car is now back at the dealer. I will update as soon as I hear something from Ford. Still no ticking though.

Hopefully they will just replace another sensor.

 

[Condor1970]

Hope the ECU isn't bad. Two bad sensors at once. That seems odd.

I did some more reading last night on CMP sensor issues on the older Mustangs and F-150's. One sensor failing happens onoccasion, but multiple points to a different source, like the ECU, or even some cases had bad diodes in the alternator, causing power surges that damaged sensors.

In fact one thread I ran into, guys automatically replaced there alternators when they would replace their CMP sensors. It was sort of a known problem in the 2003-2014 Mustangs.

 

[5OhSilver]

Hope the ECU isn't bad. Two bad sensors at once. That seems odd.

I did some more reading last night on CMP sensor issues on the older Mustangs and F-150's. One sensor failing happens onoccasion, but multiple points to a different source, like the ECU, or even some cases had bad diodes in the alternator, causing power surges that damaged sensors.

In fact one thread I ran into, guys automatically replaced there alternators when they would replace their CMP sensors. It was sort of a known problem in the 2003-2014 Mustangs.

Yeah I'm not sure what's going on. The engine code pointed to bank 2 camshaft sensor which is the one they replaced. Unfortunately though at the end of the day, this vehicle put my fiance and I's life at risk this time by shutting off on a public roadway that caused, in my opinion, a pretty dangerous situation. I started the buy back process with Ford this morning. In my state you only have to have the vehicle serviced 1 time for an issue that puts the occupants at a safety risk, and if it returns for the second time, it qualifies for lemon law. I no longer feel safe or confident in my mustang :(

 

[Killswitch16GT]

Noticed something else interesting. Plugged up ngauge and scanned for dtcs. Car has a p0316 stored, but no cel light illuminated.

 

[mustangflanagan]

God Damn car is now doing it even when warmed up.. U can here it in sync with the rpms.. Trip 2 to dealer Nov 7. No Damn way they better not say its normal..ill lose my shit.. I this pos engine blows up before it.

 

[CB18]

This afternoon I got a call from my service advisor. Ford wants them to replace my clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. And those parts are a couple of months on backorder. They said to drive it.

 

[Condor1970]

This afternoon I got a call from my service advisor. Ford wants them to replace my clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. And those parts are a couple of months on backorder. They said to drive it.

This afternoon I got a call from my service advisor. Ford wants them to replace my clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. And those parts are a couple of months on backorder. They said to drive it.

They did a clutch on mine last week. I was lucky they found one. You're right,t he back order is like the end of November now, for clutches.

They installed a whole new clutch and flywheel, because mine was very squishy, and not engaging like it should. The main diaphragm spring was weak. The new one feels much stiffer.

That said, it did nothing to affect the engine tick I have. Bey hey, at least they fixed my clutch.

 

[CB18]

I have no problems with getting into gear or changing gears and such. Everything feels smooth to me. I never had a clutch pedal that was easier to push down though. This thing is actually too easy for me. We shall see. I'm betting that is not the problem when it's done with.
I asked if they scoped the bores. They said yes they did and they did not see anything wrong.

 

[myjaja]

My car has been ticking starting from around 1000 miles and now it has around 4400. The ticking has been getting worse and ticked on every cold start and almost every warm start. Took it into the dealership and they had it for 3 days then they tell me they could not hear any ticking at all. I was like theirs no way, its so loud and I hear it on pretty much every start up. I went and picked up my car and I've had it for about 3 days now and surprisingly theirs no more ticking! On my dash camera, it recorded them putting back my engine cover and strut tower brace. They didn't say anything about fixing it just that they never heard it. Im so confused at this point. Hopefully the ticking doesn't come back.

 

[accel]

But was that compared to oil with Cera Tec added? It's not really an apples to apples comparison to compare Oil A + Cera Tec to just Oil B with no Cera Tec, which is essentially what Killswitch16GT did.

After several days on 5w30 (from 5w20 with ceratec) I switched back to 5w20. 5w30 was just too much. Tick returned to levels of 5w20 before ceratec.

 

[GT Pony]

After several days on 5w30 (from 5w20 with ceratec) I switched back to 5w20. 5w30 was just too much. Tick returned to levels of 5w20 before ceratec.

And what's it like with 5W-20 without Cera Tec ... more quiet than with the 5W-30 without Cera Tec?

What brand oils are you using?

I switched to Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 and my valve train sounds quieter than it did with Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend. My GT doesn't have any ticking, but the Valvoline seems to make it even quieter now.

 

[accel]

And what's it like with 5W-20 without Cera Tec ... more quiet than with the 5W-30 without Cera Tec?

yes 5w20 MC more quiet than 5w30 castrol edge. both without ceratec.

I mean not quiet but with 5w20 it happens under less circumstances.

ceratec did not fix the tick either. just tamed.

 

[5OhSilver]

Update - Car is still at dealer. They reached out to the Hotline and asked if they should do an engine tear down. Ford engineer said no and to replace parts of the wiring harness and sensors. They later on moved to cutting open the oil filter. Looks like they are looking for an excuse to do an engine replacement rather than hunt down an electrical grimlin.

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