All boosted supercharged 18+ how much PSI and RWHP you making on stock motor.

[LSchicago]

I am very familiar, i have been a racer for 22 years, and specialized in the coyote for 11, and we are the largest power adder dealer for coyotes out there.

18 is TOO much for longevity especially on a gen 3, IMO.

just because someone does it on youtube or on a shop car, i would never put a customer out with 18psi and tell him he can expect 100k miles out of it. even on e, 10-11 psi on a gen 3 with e85 is making roughly 800 wheel. can you make 1000 wheel, by all means, but be prepared to build an engine, if an engine is not in your budget, keep it at 10-11.

we always push our personal stuff, but thats our "personal" stuff. customers will always be put on notice, if they want to go above what we consider safe

I'm at about 14 psi right now (4.25" on P1X stage 2 with MAK Hurricane inlet) on E85, but will probably go back down to 10 after my next track outing. Chasing that 9. That should increase drivability/reliability.

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[Angrey]

Wow thanks for all that. What’s your setup? lol.

I learned my lessons in my youth Buy once, cry once. Overbuild it. That sick feeling in your stomach. Sitting on the side of the road with flashers wondering how badly something is nuked. Getting the call from the speed shop and dreading the diagnosis (and how much down time and how much more money it's gonna cost). These things aren't always avoidable, but we car guys, we bring it on ourselves sometimes.

I'm at the tail end of my build, a sleeved, billet everything, arp everything block. Whipple 3.0 with a 10 rib, 150mm TB, etc, etc. I've spent a small fortune and tried not to cut any corners. My "goal" , or more my guidance to the tuner shortly is going to be..."when you hit 1000 rwhp, sit down." Meaning I'm more than happy having it "detuned" to only run 1000 but fat, and low timing and safe/reliable as possible. That includes not pushing it past 8k (when I have the springs and retainers and valves, etc to probably run it to 9k). On a 2.75" pulley, with ported/polished GT350 heads, giant TB, 2" primaries on the long tubes, I could PROBABLY run it out to 1200 if we got real aggressive and swapped out the balancer for an overdrive. But at this point, I just want a 4 digit, RELIABLE car, that I can put my foot into and not be terrified of what's going to break.

My only regret on the build so far is not doing oil squirters. I'd have probably tried to do the GT500 squirters if I had thought of it at the time.

I'm trying to build the motor, trans, drivetrain to all reliably hold 1k rwhp. So that involves 2k hp axles, CF driveshaft (that QA-1 assures me will handle a bunch) fuel system capable of supporting way more, built custom Magnum XL, etc, etc. My build is taking WAY WAY longer than it should and costing way too much, but in the end I hope it's worth overbuilding. I'll cry and curl up in a ball if it's still teacup fragile.

 

[beefcake]

I'm at about 14 psi right now (4.25" on P1X stage 2 with MAK Hurricane inlet) on E85, but will probably go back down to 10 after my next track outing. Chasing that 9. That should increase drivability/reliability.

it will.

there is nothing wrong with pushing more, we have customers pushing 900 wheel, 1000 wheel. but we just let them know, that what you see on youtube, isn't what the average guy is gonna do

they see these 8 second "stock engine" cars like say in texas, but what they don't know is those cars have what we call "the houston gut", they weigh 3200lbs WITH driver....

800lbs out of car will do WONDERS....

 

[zinbr10]

Edelbrock 2650 on about 15 psi on e85 made 815 wheel. Tuned by lund racing

 

[Oxford19]

Just had my Beefcake Vortech 800 kit installed, OPG/Chain sprocket, charge motion lockout. Tuned by PBD on 93. Made 707/556 in 4th(6mt) @10ish psi.

 

[Jackson1320]

I learned my lessons in my youth Buy once, cry once. Overbuild it. That sick feeling in your stomach. Sitting on the side of the road with flashers wondering how badly something is nuked. Getting the call from the speed shop and dreading the diagnosis (and how much down time and how much more money it's gonna cost). These things aren't always avoidable, but we car guys, we bring it on ourselves sometimes.

I'm at the tail end of my build, a sleeved, billet everything, arp everything block. Whipple 3.0 with a 10 rib, 150mm TB, etc, etc. I've spent a small fortune and tried not to cut any corners. My "goal" , or more my guidance to the tuner shortly is going to be..."when you hit 1000 rwhp, sit down." Meaning I'm more than happy having it "detuned" to only run 1000 but fat, and low timing and safe/reliable as possible. That includes not pushing it past 8k (when I have the springs and retainers and valves, etc to probably run it to 9k). On a 2.75" pulley, with ported/polished GT350 heads, giant TB, 2" primaries on the long tubes, I could PROBABLY run it out to 1200 if we got real aggressive and swapped out the balancer for an overdrive. But at this point, I just want a 4 digit, RELIABLE car, that I can put my foot into and not be terrified of what's going to break.

My only regret on the build so far is not doing oil squirters. I'd have probably tried to do the GT500 squirters if I had thought of it at the time.

I'm trying to build the motor, trans, drivetrain to all reliably hold 1k rwhp. So that involves 2k hp axles, CF driveshaft (that QA-1 assures me will handle a bunch) fuel system capable of supporting way more, built custom Magnum XL, etc, etc. My build is taking WAY WAY longer than it should and costing way too much, but in the end I hope it's worth overbuilding. I'll cry and curl up in a ball if it's still teacup fragile.

This is why I learned to turn the wrench myself. Save half of a fortune and a boat load of time. In the end I have noone to blame if something doesn’t go as planned. I’m not sure I would have gone cf driveshaft. if it is a street car I 100% would not have gone cf

 

[bankyf]

This is why I learned to turn the wrench myself. Save half of a fortune and a boat load of time. In the end I have noone to blame if something doesn’t go as planned. I’m not sure I would have gone cf driveshaft. if it is a street car I 100% would not have gone cf

What's wrong with the CF driveshaft?

 

[beefcake]

Just had my Beefcake Vortech 800 kit installed, OPG/Chain sprocket, charge motion lockout. Tuned by PBD on 93. Made 707/556 in 4th(6mt) @10ish psi.

right on the money for pump!!!

What's wrong with the CF driveshaft?

some people worry about a rock breaking the glue / seal on the ouside and then it coming apart

 

[stanger1]

The CF drive shaft.
When I had my 2013 Shelby GT500, I was always worried about that. And I worried about the age and if it would degrade over time, but I have since traded that car, so not a worry any more.

 

[Angrey]

CF is more prone to chip damage from road debris, etc. And if you ass it up and don't mount it with proper clearance, any rubbing will eventually result in failure.

However, it's choosing the debutante with the smallest mustache. I'd rather deal with those issues than worrying about a metal driveshaft beating the car half to death if it fails from torque or fatigue. There's a reason most of the big boys pro race teams now use CF (albeit much more expensive and beefier shafts) because it's a safety factor. They still have to box around the joints and such (which can still beat a car up) but at least the CF shreds to splinters and doesn't turn into a pole vault or a giant 20 lb night stick that clubs your car to death.

 

[wingnutt]

However, it's choosing the debutante with the smallest mustache.

…quote of the week right there

 

[Eric5.0]

Why do car enthusiasts continually do this?

It's a form of confirmation bias. It's like asking...."What's the heaviest person who's ever successfully bungee jumped on this setup?"

You're going to get a shotgun spectrum of answers, but as car guys we should be OVERENGINEERING and UNDERUTILIZING (like the OEM's who are responsible for warranty claims do).

The problem with most of these answers is that many/most of them are under IDEAL conditions. The car is sitting on the rollers in a shop, with good quality fuel, the motor isn't being lugged, uphill on a hot day, etc.

The example I always use is....how many people can you safely fit in a 12' Aluminum flat bottom boat. Sitting right next to the dock, you could probably fit like a dozen people in that boat (without it swamping). You might even be able put put around on the water at very slow speed on a totally calm day.

Can you take that boat with 12 people in it out on windy day with 3' chop? I wouldn't, unless you like to swim.

If we're asking "how much power on stock blah blah blah" for the purposes of seeing max value and then backing off for a safety factor, I agree. But these "rules" and arbitrary limits are just that, it's guys and tuners and shops making power on a motor that's max'd out any sort of responsible safety factor or ability to accommodate for less than ideal conditions.

So, can you run 700 rwtq on stock axles? Sure, until it breaks.

You're probably going to get answers approaching or exceeding triple digits on the stock block and bottom end. Would Ford warranty 4 digits on that setup? Nope, cause they have to pay for carnage and failure and warranty claims.

My advice is to pick the level you want to be at and OVER shoot. If you want a 1000 rwhp setup, build the motor for 1500 hp.

You can have it fast, cheap or reliable. Pick any two.

There's one in every group. Open to suggestions on how this conversation could be had that satisfies you.

 

[SolarFlare]

There's one in every group. Open to suggestions on how this conversation could be had that satisfies you.

I would’ve been satisfied if we let this 2 year old thread die a peaceful death

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