ahl395's Magnetic GT Build Log - Procharger P1X + 8kW sound system

Discussion in 'Members Mustang Journals / Projects' started by ahl395, Apr 23, 2017.

  1. Andrewg

    Andrewg Sun, Sea, Sand and Camels

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    Awesome! Can't wait to see what a difference it makes. I presume you'll be tuning for 20* timing but not tuning for the actual water/meth? i.e. taking advantage of the cooler charge temps. Had a conversation with Jeff from Hellhorse Performance last night and their meth kit on their 800whp TT S550 shop car came up. Their car takes advantage with the cooler temps but if you run out of juice, the tune pulls timing and stays safe.
     
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    ahl395

    ahl395 Well-Known Member

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    Yep! Nothing fuelling wise will be changed for the meth. Since methanol is a fuel, when tuning *for* the meth, fuel is usually pulled from the injectors to compensate. Then however if the meth fails, you will lean out.

    I won't be doing this, Lund wouldnt even if I wanted to lol. Short-term fuel trim will account for the meth being injected and the system can react accordingly. It may be rich for a second before the ECM kicks in and adjusts but better to be rich than lean, I won't have cats to worry about anyway. Then if for some reason the meth fails it will just add the fuel back in and pull timing if needed. My current timing is set to 18* (19* on Torco), so I feel 20* is nowhere near the limit. Safe enough that timing can be pulled if needed and wont raise cylinder pressures too high, but should still give me some extra power.

    Most of that is taking advantage of the extra octane from the meth, but lowering the IATs will also be good for lowering cylinder pressure and keeping the engine happy and power consistent. I can feel a difference between cooler and warmer ambient temps in the power of the car, so after this I shouldnt. Ambient air can be 100F and my IATs should be like 70F :D

    I will have a low level LED indicator when the tank is about 1/3, and I am going to put a "real" fuel level sender in the tank with a 52mm fuel gauge mounted in either the center console or glove box so I can always check and see how much I have and wont run out.
     
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  3. Cobo_pro

    Cobo_pro Well-Known Member

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    What did you use to make your dash lights blue? Looks pretty cool matching your gauges
     
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    ahl395

    ahl395 Well-Known Member

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    Just the stock Ford Mycolor on the premium models.
     
  5. Cobo_pro

    Cobo_pro Well-Known Member

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    Oh, nice! Looks good man, enjoy!
     
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    ahl395

    ahl395 Well-Known Member

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    #51 ahl395, Aug 26, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2018
    Got my car it's first clay bar, detail and wax. Looks so shiny and nice now. :love:

    IMG_20170825_181100.jpgIMG_20170825_181115.jpgIMG_20170825_181129.jpgIMG_20170825_181136.jpg


    Got my Alky Control kit also. Looks awesome! Just waiting on the tank now.

    IMG_20170822_175707.jpgIMG_20170822_175705.jpgIMG_20170822_175703.jpg

    Thank you!
     
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    ahl395

    ahl395 Well-Known Member

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    #52 ahl395, Aug 27, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2018
    Over the last full day and a half, I ran my sound system power and ground wires.

    Two 1/0 Power and two 1/0 Ground. Trying to fit these through the car would be impossilbe, running them under the car was slightly less impossible. Took the full 1.5 days.

    Ran the wiring through the wheel wells and under the car. Used friction tape around the wires going through bends or against metal. Used hard ENT conduit for the runs under the car, and wire loom in other spots. Secured everything with a series of bolted in cable hold downs, plastic zip ties and metal zip ties. If the plastic ties break or the metal ones rust out, one way or another it should still be secure... Lol. Everything will of course be fused as well.

    At no point is the wire the lowest point on the car. The frame rail or jacking rail is the lowest point, so it should be nice and safe. However I am still going to drive around with it disconnected for a bit and recheck before i hook it up to power.

    Forgot to take a photo of it but I removed the air deflector mid way down the car on that side for the wire. Used the existing studs to bolt down some cable hold downs to. Drilled a few into the sheet metal also. Had to trim the pass side fender liner to make room for the wires. Reinstalling the liner on front and back was the hardest part of the job with all that wire in there. Zip tied it to the liner in the back so it wouldnt move. Inthe front secured it up above the liner as shown in the last pic.

    IMG_20170826_153017.jpgIMG_20170826_173000.jpgIMG_20170826_152937.jpgIMG_20170827_120314.jpgIMG_20170827_120318.jpgIMG_20170826_192707.jpgIMG_20170827_105357_1.jpgIMG_20170827_123315.jpgIMG_20170827_125145.jpgIMG_20170827_125150.jpgIMG_20170827_125314.jpgIMG_20170827_134756.jpg

    Next up is installing the D4700 up front with the custom buss bars I made to connect all these cables to. The D3100 in the rear will probably wait until the rest of the system is ready. Still have to come up with a way to secure it.

    Next thursday-friday is Cat delete time!
     
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  8. Cobo_pro

    Cobo_pro Well-Known Member

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    You're brave bro. I was an auto tech for electrical install (systems,remote start, alarms,sensors,nav,etc) in Saratoga springs NY and never had the balls to install exterior wires outside the car besides satellite antennas. Try to find some weather proofing to protect the wires in the winter. Would hate a nice build to bring problems
     
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    ahl395

    ahl395 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man, I used to do the same thing back a few years ago. This was my first time doing power wires under the car simply because I couldn't fit four 1/0 cables through the inside lol.

    I don't think the winter weather will give me any problems with the cables through the conduit. That should protect them pretty well. I made sure there was no exposed cable under the car without some kind of protection on it. Part of the reason I went with metal zip ties was I figured the cold may break the plastic ones.
     
  10. Cobo_pro

    Cobo_pro Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good bro, looking good man
     
  11. A.Mustang

    A.Mustang Well-Known Member

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    Where in Jersey are You? I'm in South Jersey swedesboro area. I htmlhave a magnetic manual tuned with headers looking to procharge or CAM very soon. Always looking to meet and ride with new people.
     
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    ahl395

    ahl395 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Lots more coming soon. Have to finish building the subwoofer box, do the inside wiring, cat deletes, methanol, etc. I have a feeling this car will never be completed lol

    Nice! I'm up in Hazlet area alot further north. I travel down to Forked River every so often though which is alot further south, so we could probably meet up! Send me a PM let me know how far you are from there.
     
  13. 15dib

    15dib Well-Known Member

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    Nice bro, I'll be waiting to see your sound system. I ran 0 gauge in my 14 but 4 is a lot more than 1. Did you think of running just one ground to a battery cell in the trunk? Might have saved some hassle.
     
  14. Cobo_pro

    Cobo_pro Well-Known Member

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    You don't need to really "run" a ground anywhere. As long as there's no paint in the metal that you'll be bolting into you'd be fine. Power, on the other hand... That's why they make capacitors
     
  15. Cobo_pro

    Cobo_pro Well-Known Member

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    End of the day, if you really wanted to get serious, optima deep cycle battery
     
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