ahl395's Build Log - Methanol Injected / P1X / 4500W sound system

[ahl395]

Small update:

Block wasn't salvageable, so a new block is underway. 2nd main bearing is what failed and it destroyed the cap and block with it. Hoping to have it back in early June.

Decided I was done dealing with no traction until 3rd gear. Ordering up a set of the new Nitto NT555RII drag radials that just came out recently.

They look promising as far as traction goes, some people with 7-800whp are able to hook in 2nd. That will be a feeling I've never been able to experience! From what I've read on the last gen, they are manageable in the rain and can last 10-15k miles so I can expect the same or better out of these. Very excited! Since I'm on the street and don't have any immediate plans to go to the track I'm going to see how long the stock axles hold up with them until I find a set of cheaper used ones.

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[Chris Barnes]

Wow that's a bummer. Curious what was the root cause of that failure, and if the crank is salvageable? Hang in there!

 

[ahl395]

Wow that's a bummer. Curious what was the root cause of that failure, and if the crank is salvageable? Hang in there!

Crank was not salvageable either which I expected, I went with a double keyed crank this time around.

The shop hinted that it was from the Procharger pulling on the crank. I've put alot of thought into it and thinking back to when it broke, I'm pretty sure I accidentally bounced off the limiter while doing several back to back pulls. Personally I think this is what caused the failure, plus the supercharger of course. People shatter OPGs by bouncing on the limiter so it shows how damaging and shocking it can be to the components. In other words, It's my fault, but I own up to it lol.

 

[Chris Barnes]

Wouldn't the number 1 main be the first to go if the Procharger was the culprit? There's so much talk of snapped cranks, PCs new crank support, etc as of late I really don't know what to think.

 

[ahl395]

Wouldn't the number 1 main be the first to go if the Procharger was the culprit? There's so much talk of snapped cranks, PCs new crank support, etc as of late I really don't know what to think.

They said it uses the number 1 as the fulcrum and then the rest of the crank moves.

I think the crank snapping is a little blown out of proportion. I'm not an expert but from what I've read it seems at least half of them are a few hundred miles after installation, which means it was caused by install error and not seating the balancer correctly. Most of them have ATI balancers on them which are a very tight fit and are easy to not seat 100% if installed incorrectly.

After that, it's important to note that Whipple cars and even turbo cars have snapped the crank. I would say there's a little bit of a bias toward Prochargers and that may be because of the dedicated drive belt held off the crank, but there's thousands and thousands of Procharged cars and very very few snapped cranks.

Another thing that I personally have thought of after seeing some damaged keyways. All the force put through the balancer is put through the keyway. If the keyway fails there's a good chance the balancer will wobble and snap the snout. This is why I went double keyed.

 

[Check06]

Read through this thread and I gotta say what a roller coaster. Sorry to hear about the latest engine and hope it all works out for you.

I am curious, I saw earlier you were into E85 and was wondering why you went with Meth rather than E85?

 

[ahl395]

Read through this thread and I gotta say what a roller coaster. Sorry to hear about the latest engine and hope it all works out for you.

I am curious, I saw earlier you were into E85 and was wondering why you went with Meth rather than E85?

Thank you!

E85 is great but its not readily available in my area, so I had to go with meth if I wanted to exceed the power level of 93. Not practical to store E85 in drums and pump it into my car at home every time IMO.

With meth I'll be able to achieve the same goals as you can on E85. But to do it safely I had to direct port and setup the several failsafes, as well as the advanced controller. On top of that meth does have benefits E85 doesnt such as steam cleaning the inside of the motor, and reduced IATs. But E85 is much simpler and I would have just needed a fuel system and done. If it was more accessible, I would have went that route.

 

[SheepDog]

Mocked up the intake manifold with fuel rail and meth pressure sensor last night to make sure it would all fit together properly.

Only small pain in the ass is that the direct port lines need to be removed to install the fuel rail.

Now that's badass right there. nice work

 

[ahl395]

Now that's badass right there. nice work

Thanks man. I can't wait to see it ON the car!

 

[SheepDog]

Thanks man. I can't wait to see it ON the car!

One thing I will throw out there, and you can take it or leave it.

once upon a time, I had a water/meth system on another car. Very long story short... One night my high dollar controller decided to shit the bed, and malfunction in a manner that injected almost 1 gallon of fluid into my intake plumbing while I was sound asleep. I went to start the car the next day not realizing this, and the engine of course hydro-locked, and subsequently bent a connecting rod.

So, in an effort to completely fail safe the system when not in use, I would recommend that you put a ball valve on the feed line that you have coming out of the tank. a few dollars would have saved my motor. Electronics fail as I found out the hard way

Just food for thought.

Something like this..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...onnect-dia-Ball-Valve-Push-Fitting/1000192681

 

[ahl395]

One thing I will throw out there, and you can take it or leave it.

once upon a time, I had a water/meth system on another car. Very long story short... One night my high dollar controller decided to shit the bed, and malfunction in a manner that injected almost 1 gallon of fluid into my intake plumbing while I was sound asleep. I went to start the car the next day not realizing this, and the engine of course hydro-locked, and subsequently bent a connecting rod.

So, in an effort to completely fail safe the system when not in use, I would recommend that you put a ball valve on the feed line that you have coming out of the tank. a few dollars would have saved my motor. Electronics fail as I found out the hard way

Just food for thought.

Something like this..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...onnect-dia-Ball-Valve-Push-Fitting/1000192681

Good post, I never really thought of that.

I do think I should be safe from that happening. The controller has *no* constant power to it, only switched with ignition. So once the car is off, it's dead. Also the pump has its own separate relay as well to isolate it with switched power. And there's a solenoid in line that needs to be energized to pass fluid. The pump getting stuck on alone wouldn't be able to pass any.

Definitely not saying it's impossible though. I'll consider it! I have a coupler for the line in the back seat so it would be pretty easy to install one there.

 

[SheepDog]

Good post, I never really thought of that.

I do think I should be safe from that happening. The controller has *no* constant power to it, only switched with ignition. So once the car is off, it's dead. Also the pump has its own separate relay as well to isolate it with switched power. And there's a solenoid in line that needs to be energized to pass fluid. The pump getting stuck on alone wouldn't be able to pass any.

Definitely not saying it's impossible though. I'll consider it! I have a coupler for the line in the back seat so it would be pretty easy to install one there.

Yupper. Just cut the line line a few inches from the brass fitting and put a ball valve, then sleep at night knowing even God can't force fluid through the line when your built motor isn't running.

 

[ahl395]

Yupper. Just cut the line line a few inches from the brass fitting and put a ball valve, then sleep at night knowing even God can't force fluid through the line when your built motor isn't running.

Well that line there is just the vent for vapors outside the car. All the feed lines are braided with AN fittings. I've found a few ball valves that'll work though and could get an electric one that will open/close with switched power. It's essentially what the solenoid does anyway but redundancy isn't a bad thing.

 

[SheepDog]

Well that line there is just the vent for vapors outside the car. All the feed lines are braided with AN fittings. I've found a few ball valves that'll work though and could get an electric one that will open/close with switched power. It's essentially what the solenoid does anyway but redundancy isn't a bad thing.

oh ok, very nice. I was thinking that was the feed line, lol. Godspeed sir.

 

[ahl395]

Received my drag radials, if only I had the car to put them on lol.

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