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LFG_Cory

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So my saga continues. I put the car on jacks. Took off both front wheels to be able to see the engine and belly pan better. The oil pressure sensor and the oil canister are both clean and dry. Nor is there any obvious sign of 3 or so quarts of oil leaking. The belly pan is dirty. Grimy. But I live in Florida. To be expected. I'll top off the oil tomorrow. I added 2 quarts this past Saturday which got me back to the lower hole. One more quart should put me in the sweet spot. I'll note the oil level. This Saturday I'll take it for a granny drive to West Palm Beach. I'll let it sit then check the oil level and repeat the granny drive home and check the oil level. I'll notate any changes to the oil level. Then Sunday, I'll take it out to Groveland and drive some spirited roads where I am in the higher RPM range. Check oil before and after. The thought being if I am using oil on the granny drive then I def have a problem.

I looked at the exhaust tips as suggested earlier in this thread and there is black soot. But looks normal to me. All exhaust has soot. Maybe I am missing something

I just can't believe that when I checked the oil the oil level was good. Then a week later after it had been sitting, I had a dry stick and need 3 quarts. Car is a CPO and has a 7 year 100k warranty. I hope to not have to use it it but something tells me I will be needing to take it in to Ford here shortly.

Thank you Tomster for taking the time to talk to me and give me advice.

Sorry if I hijacked this thread.....hope it's okay Ninjak.
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loco_GT350

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I looked at the exhaust tips as suggested earlier in this thread and there is black soot. But looks normal to me. All exhaust has soot. Maybe I am missing something
How much on the soot (i.e. how heavy is the soot on the chrome part of the tail pipe), do you have pictures?
 

LFG_Cory

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How much on the soot (i.e. how heavy is the soot on the chrome part of the tail pipe), do you have pictures?
Well. I washed the car before this drama started. However the outside pipes are clean but the inside pipes where there valves are are really sooty. Also, on the front side of the muffler there is a lot of black carbon. Almost like there is a pin hole in the weld and the soot is being blown and collected on the inside edge of the muffler lip. Not sure if that tells you much.
 

Nfs1000f

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Scott, “Dumbass” is used by you in two different threads in 1 hr 7 min. You must be the smartest person on this forum.
 
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Scott, “Dumbass” used by you in two different threads in 1 hr 7 min. You must be the smartest person on this forum.
Manchildren is why I hate forums. There are a shit ton of grown ass men that regress to acting like children to blame others.
 

Scoobs

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Well. I washed the car before this drama started. However the outside pipes are clean but the inside pipes where there valves are are really sooty. Also, on the front side of the muffler there is a lot of black carbon. Almost like there is a pin hole in the weld and the soot is being blown and collected on the inside edge of the muffler lip. Not sure if that tells you much.
Definitely burning oil. I was going through about 1 quart of oil every 300 miles before my engine was replaced. The exhaust tips were constantly covered in black carbon soot inside the pipes and around the inside edge of the chrome tips. Since my engine was replaced there is very little if any soot deposited and checking my oil shows no oil being lost. You might have a couple of bad intake valve seals like my engine had. Oil was going directly into 2 of the cylinders and being burned during combustion.
 

Tomster

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Well. I washed the car before this drama started. However the outside pipes are clean but the inside pipes where there valves are are really sooty. Also, on the front side of the muffler there is a lot of black carbon. Almost like there is a pin hole in the weld and the soot is being blown and collected on the inside edge of the muffler lip. Not sure if that tells you much.
Hit the reset button. If you have soot on your exhaust tips, it doesn't mean your engine is a oil consumer. Check the car out everywhere for leaks (oil canister, pressure sensor, look at your belly pan). Clean it all up. Get a can of brake cleaner and a roll of paper towels and get all the oil out of your belly pan (if oil is there). Top the oil off. Check the oil with the car in the same spot every time. I know the manual says to check the oil warm, but in your case, I would check it cold every day before you start the car. All the oil will have the chance to seep down into the pan and will give you a consistent base to know if your oil level is changing. Drive the car consistently for a period of miles (250-500 or so). Vary the driving habits with each mileage bracket and be consistent. Check your oil every day.

If you are consuming oil under different driving habits which is consistent over sample mile brackets, then the next step is to figure out why. Keep in mind 1 qt/500 miles is acceptable. You may not like it, but Ford said that tolerance is OK. If more than 1qt/500 then the next step is the dealership to do an oil consumption test. If it comes back positive, then you have a choice...… New motor under warranty or a repair out of your pocket. Usually oil consumption is because of a valve issue. Despite the red badge (sticker) on your car, yours is a standard 350. If Ford authorized a new engine, I probably would get the new engine (unless this car is a keeper for you and numbers matching is important). For me and my R's, I would investigate into why this was happening. If it was a valve issue, I probably would repair it myself out of pocket.

First things first, clean it all up and start a base line and go from there.
 

LFG_Cory

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Hit the reset button. If you have soot on your exhaust tips, it doesn't mean your engine is a oil consumer. Check the car out everywhere for leaks (oil canister, pressure sensor, look at your belly pan). Clean it all up. Get a can of brake cleaner and a roll of paper towels and get all the oil out of your belly pan (if oil is there). Top the oil off. Check the oil with the car in the same spot every time. I know the manual says to check the oil warm, but in your case, I would check it cold every day before you start the car. All the oil will have the chance to seep down into the pan and will give you a consistent base to know if your oil level is changing. Drive the car consistently for a period of miles (250-500 or so). Vary the driving habits with each mileage bracket and be consistent. Check your oil every day.

If you are consuming oil under different driving habits which is consistent over sample mile brackets, then the next step is to figure out why. Keep in mind 1 qt/500 miles is acceptable. You may not like it, but Ford said that tolerance is OK. If more than 1qt/500 then the next step is the dealership to do an oil consumption test. If it comes back positive, then you have a choice...… New motor under warranty or a repair out of your pocket. Usually oil consumption is because of a valve issue. Despite the red badge (sticker) on your car, yours is a standard 350. If Ford authorized a new engine, I probably would get the new engine (unless this car is a keeper for you and numbers matching is important). For me and my R's, I would investigate into why this was happening. If it was a valve issue, I probably would repair it myself out of pocket.

First things first, clean it all up and start a base line and go from there.
Will do. And thank you.
 

Tomster

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Will do. And thank you.
Just to clarify the above, drive for a specified amount of miles with the same driving habits. For example, drive 250 miles like a grandma, 250 highway miles, 250 around town like I know you drive it, and 250 like a responsible citizen would. I know that's a lot of miles, so I probably would (for the process of elimination) start with grandma/highway miles to see if there is any difference. That is of course you find no oil leaks anywhere.

Best of luck.
 

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LFG_Cory

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Definitely burning oil. I was going through about 1 quart of oil every 300 miles before my engine was replaced. The exhaust tips were constantly covered in black carbon soot inside the pipes and around the inside edge of the chrome tips. Since my engine was replaced there is very little if any soot deposited and checking my oil shows no oil being lost. You might have a couple of bad intake valve seals like my engine had. Oil was going directly into 2 of the cylinders and being burned during combustion.
Good to know. Thank you.
 

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This is my passenger side catch can after exactly 60 miles of normal city driving...seem normal?
 
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Ninjak

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UPDATE:

So My dealer now finally calls me after having the car for two weeks and not doing anything...and says..."Oh you have a hole in the side of the block..." ME: OK....... "Dealer...your long tube headers COULD HAVE CAUSED THAT, YOUR NOT UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE OF THEM.

WTF !!!????!!!????!!!!

Is the Ford rep on this site ? Or what number do I call ? The Ford Performance line ?? This is BS !!!
 

JR369

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UPDATE:

So My dealer now finally calls me after having the car for two weeks and not doing anything...and says..."Oh you have a hole in the side of the block..." ME: OK....... "Dealer...your long tube headers COULD HAVE CAUSED THAT, YOUR NOT UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE OF THEM.

WTF !!!????!!!????!!!!

Is the Ford rep on this site ? Or what number do I call ? The Ford Performance line ?? This is BS !!!

You're full exhaust and tuned?
 

DCShelby

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If you do mods like that and have any problems Ford and every other car manufacturer will use it to deny a claim. It sucks but don’t mod a new car under warranty if you can’t cover the cost to eat it. I suggest not to make a poo storm and see if they will do a one time goodwill claim.
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