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About to order a Calimer Stage 3 MT82, what clutch is right for me?

Tom@Lethal

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The spline option you decide to go with will also determine which route you take.

if 23 spline And want a clutch that holds power but also easy in the engagement and great for cruising, the LPX of LPXHD for high capacity.

If 26 spline then The RXT from Mcleod as i feel the RST when hot tends to slip due to the clutch disc compound. In either case they’re both twin disc, great pedal feel and essentially drive like stock or can take a beating when you want ;)
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Mattwood440

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+1 for the Ram, specifically the pro street dual disc 900 series with the steel flywheel. It has a sprung hub. I found the heavier flywheel made release smoother too, and I think it's because my car is 4000lbs+ with me in it. My Procharged 15 makes 660rwhp. Daily driven. I had the McLeod RXT with a lightened flywheel for like 6 months. Absolutely undrivable without revving it up way past 2000rpm (more like 2500) before engagement from every single stop. Whole car shuddered and bucked horribly. BTW the RXT has two solid hubs. I lost $1000 reselling it, but I'm glad it's gone. With the Ram I can start engagement well under 2000rpm. Still takes a little to get used to. The diaphragm spring can "bounce" if you ride it too long letting it out. Get the stainless clutch line and the steeda clutch return spring, too, or ditch the spring like some do. Bleed the crap out of it with a proper vacuum pump! Then bleed it again! Mine will make a brief bearing squeal at the point of engagement a couple times in the winter before it warms up. Not in the summer. I tried 2 new slave cylinders. It's normal. Almost 2 years later and happy as a clam
 

Mattwood440

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If you experience high rpm shift "lockout" you will need the Barton hybrid shifter. Don't bother with the Ford short throw shifter and bushing inserts. It doesn't work. My driveshaft has survived many 5000rpm dumps on bias slicks so far. The axles...not so much.
 

LethalPerformance

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The "true" stage 3 Calimer Transmission comes with an upgraded 26 spline (yes, you can option for a 23 spline but it is not recommended). With it being beefed up and 26 spline, you will treat the car as if it had a TR6060 from a 07-09 GT500 (so the 26 spline 07-09 GT500 setups fit). This means there are a ton of options, but we have used the RXT/RXT1200 & LPXHD the most in these upgraded transmissions.

Please let any of us here at Lethal know if we can help.
 

NGOT8R

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+1 for the Ram, specifically the pro street dual disc 900 series with the steel flywheel. It has a sprung hub. I found the heavier flywheel made release smoother too, and I think it's because my car is 4000lbs+ with me in it. My Procharged 15 makes 660rwhp. Daily driven. I had the McLeod RXT with a lightened flywheel for like 6 months. Absolutely undrivable without revving it up way past 2000rpm (more like 2500) before engagement from every single stop. Whole car shuddered and bucked horribly. BTW the RXT has two solid hubs. I lost $1000 reselling it, but I'm glad it's gone. With the Ram I can start engagement well under 2000rpm. Still takes a little to get used to. The diaphragm spring can "bounce" if you ride it too long letting it out. Get the stainless clutch line and the steeda clutch return spring, too, or ditch the spring like some do. Bleed the crap out of it with a proper vacuum pump! Then bleed it again! Mine will make a brief bearing squeal at the point of engagement a couple times in the winter before it warms up. Not in the summer. I tried 2 new slave cylinders. It's normal. Almost 2 years later and happy as a clam
I just bought the Ram Pro Street Clutch with the aluminum flywheel for my 2019 Bullitt which makes 469/434 naturally aspirated and 639/602 on nitrous. Did you try the aluminum flywheel before the steel flywheel? The Pro Street is advertised as having a stock pedal feel. Can you elaborate on what you mean by “it takes a little to get used to?” Are you still on the factory transmission? Did you change your TOB with the clutch? Was a spacer needed with the slave cylinder? Any issues with grinding or lockout during high rpm shifts?Are there any cons to running this clutch? Thanks
 

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+1 for the Ram, specifically the pro street dual disc 900 series with the steel flywheel. It has a sprung hub. I found the heavier flywheel made release smoother too, and I think it's because my car is 4000lbs+ with me in it. My Procharged 15 makes 660rwhp. Daily driven. I had the McLeod RXT with a lightened flywheel for like 6 months. Absolutely undrivable without revving it up way past 2000rpm (more like 2500) before engagement from every single stop. Whole car shuddered and bucked horribly. BTW the RXT has two solid hubs. I lost $1000 reselling it, but I'm glad it's gone. With the Ram I can start engagement well under 2000rpm. Still takes a little to get used to. The diaphragm spring can "bounce" if you ride it too long letting it out. Get the stainless clutch line and the steeda clutch return spring, too, or ditch the spring like some do. Bleed the crap out of it with a proper vacuum pump! Then bleed it again! Mine will make a brief bearing squeal at the point of engagement a couple times in the winter before it warms up. Not in the summer. I tried 2 new slave cylinders. It's normal. Almost 2 years later and happy as a clam
ram makes a great clutch too, and yes, on the coyotes, we typically like the billet flywheel vs aluminum due to the high rpm, on low rpms cars we lean toward aluminum for quicker revving, but on a high rpm like a coyote, you tend to drop too much between shifts
 

Mattwood440

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I just bought the Ram Pro Street Clutch with the aluminum flywheel for my 2019 Bullitt which makes 469/434 naturally aspirated and 639/602 on nitrous. Did you try the aluminum flywheel before the steel flywheel? The Pro Street is advertised as having a stock pedal feel. Can you elaborate on what you mean by “it takes a little to get used to?” Are you still on the factory transmission? Did you change your TOB with the clutch? Was a spacer needed with the slave cylinder? Any issues with grinding or lockout during high rpm shifts?Are there any cons to running this clutch? Thanks
I called Ram before choosing the flywheel. They recommended the steel one after I described my RXT experience, that I used it as a DD, and the only track it saw was the strip. I think they have something written on the website about that as well.

+1 on stock feel. By getting used to I mean the engagement is just a little quicker from full release to full engagement. However, for DD I slip my clutch longer than anyone I know. I like my smoothness. The Ram has no problem whatsoever if I don't ride it ridiculously long. I firmly believe the sprung hub is the reason. The only time I have chatter/shudder is if I'm taking off from a stop uphill and don't rev it up enough. Only other issue I found is sometimes if I parked on an incline and left it in 1st w/o the parking brake and started it with the shifter still in 1st, it was hard to pull into neutral. Like the discs didn't want to completely disengage? Idk. Now I always put it in neutral before starting, problem gone. I love my Ram clutch and have had it almost 2 years. It gets smoother after some miles too. At the strip it grips like a steel gorilla. No cons.

Yes on the stock trans. I don't power shift at the strip but it's been procharged for 50k miles. I did snap my passenger side axle so it's seen some torque. Maybe I'm lucky?

I call the TOB the slave cuz it's all 1 unit. Self adjusting so no shim needed. Ram tech told me to use a stock replacement. First I used the 6mo old McCleod one that came with that clutch. When I heard that little squeal in the winter I put in an OE motorcraft one. Like I said it's nothing and only happens when it's consistently below freezing. Just remember to bleed the living crap out of it if you're also replacing the line (which I recommend).

I had SEVERE shift lockout at redline. The solution is 3 magic words. Barton hybrid shifter. It's that amazing. Mine is mounted to the trans and the NVH transmitted to the cabin is minimal.

Hope that helps!
 

NGOT8R

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EVERE shift lockout at redline. The solution is 3 magic words. Barton hybrid shifter. It's that amazing. Mine is mounted to the trans and the NVH transmitted to the cabin is minimal.

Hope that helps!
[/QUOTE]

Thank you! That is exactly the kind of information I was looking for.

Do you have their pedal height adjuster?

 

Mattwood440

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No pedal height adjuster. I do have the steeda lightweight clutch return spring and love it. Some folks ditch that spring altogether
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