Updated 3/27/2021 & 5/5/2022 - A look at the 2020 GT500 and exhaust system valves

[JeremyPro5.0]

Will it let you change to track mode or drag?
On an older 350 I had the car would not let me change exhaust or to track or drag mode on occasion.
I “reacquainted” The car with both keys fobs in the car on some startups and drives and it seems to have cured it?
Don’t know if car foxed itself or if it was unsure key you have is authorized to change. Worth a try.

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[Surfergeek]

Will it let you change to track mode or drag?
On an older 350 I had the car would not let me change exhaust or to track or drag mode on occasion.
I “reacquainted” The car with both keys fobs in the car on some startups and drives and it seems to have cured it?
Don’t know if car foxed itself or if it was unsure key you have is authorized to change. Worth a try.

you can change drive modes but you cannot change exhaust modes and it re-shows the warning exhaust mode selection not available.

 

[JeremyPro5.0]

Sorry no clue.
Others have said wiring or valve failure but I think you already pursued those paths.

 

[Jmeo]

My guess would be the grounding of the wires shorted out the exhaust valves. Or they are stuck, try moving them, and/or lubricating them.

 

[Surfergeek]

Did a lubrication on the exhaust valves tonight.

Let it set for a while and then started up and started cycling through the modes at idle.

worked for a bit and the dreaded error came back.

hit them again let it set and cycled through the modes again and this time was able to cycle through several times. Will drive it some more and see how it goes. Perhaps just a lack of lubrication was the problem. I just lubricated them from the inside of the tips as best as possible. I have some CRC Dry Moly scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Will give them a shot with that as well and hope that fixes things.

 

[Surfergeek]

Here is the latest:

Lubrication was short lived solution. Back to problems this week, maybe it never really fixed it.

Dealer found code P26FE stored in PCM.

They determined that the left side actuator needs to be replaced. The part is ordered and some day when it is available they are going to change it.

I also read on the Facebook group that people have corrected issues with relieving stress in the wire harness / adding additional heat shielding to the wires / connections so I may look into that as well.

 

[Epiphany]

I mentioned all of that earlier in this thread.

 

[Surfergeek]

I mentioned all of that earlier in this thread.

Yup!

Tried to start with the simplest thing first but since it was in today getting the oil separator installed I thought I would have them check it out since lubrication was no help. I did a visual on the wires and all connections were solid and I didn’t see any straining when I checked it out initially before lubricating. I definitely plan on adding heat shielding when they are done replacing the actuator. The Facebook mentions were yesterday / today so it was fresh in my mind.

 

[dirty-max]

Any update?

I get the message on every drive cycle now. Sometimes it’s on at startup. Going to make an appointment now that I have the car back from PPF and ceramic.

My apologies for the late reply. The car was at the dealer for 2 weeks and they still haven't figured out what is going on they tried installing multiple new actuators and tried the recalibration procedure multiple times but the computer just will not accept the new actuators. My dealer has even been talking directly with Ford. I ended up picking up the car because I wanted to take it on a mini vacation and will be dropping it off again soon but this is a bit aggravating that something like this is turning out to be such a pain in the butt to figure out.

 

[Surfergeek]

My apologies for the late reply. The car was at the dealer for 2 weeks and they still haven't figured out what is going on they tried installing multiple new actuators and tried the recalibration procedure multiple times but the computer just will not accept the new actuators. My dealer has even been talking directly with Ford. I ended up picking up the car because I wanted to take it on a mini vacation and will be dropping it off again soon but this is a bit aggravating that something like this is turning out to be such a pain in the butt to figure out.

Bummer!

They ordered one side actuator for me and someday when it's in stock again, the part will get delivered and they will install and it and we'll see what happens.

I have a track day later this month, so wondering, could I put them in Track Mode and pull the fuse and have them stay in track mode for the event and still be fine elsewhere with mode selection?

 

[Surfergeek]

I can't get under the car to check at the moment, but was wondering if anyone here has used a fire sleeve to go over the wires / connector at the exhaust end for the active exhaust wires?

If so what diameter did you use?

https://www.summitracing.com/search...at-sleeves?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

 

[Surfergeek]

Update:

Warranty repair today.

They replaced the actuator once. Tested, had the error.

they put in another actuator.

tested fine.

I picked it up, drove it, it was fine for awhile and then got the error again.

pulled it apart tonight and found this.

3 of the 4 wires in the actuator connector on the passenger side had wires exposed. Looks like it was probably pushed against the pinch weld from the factory.

Looks like a harness replacement is in order.

 

[Epiphany]

That is what I was getting at earlier in the thread. My harnesses were tight, with no strain relief, and too close to either the exhaust or to edges that could chafe or cut. I yanked some of the pushpins, rerouted and ziptied it for better clearance all around. Glad you found the issue.

 

[Tomster]

Update:

Warranty repair today.

They replaced the actuator once. Tested, had the error.

they put in another actuator.

tested fine.

I picked it up, drove it, it was fine for awhile and then got the error again.

pulled it apart tonight and found this.

3 of the 4 wires in the actuator connector on the passenger side had wires exposed. Looks like it was probably pushed against the pinch weld from the factory.

Looks like a harness replacement is in order.

It depends on how much slack you have. The pins can be removed from the connector and the wire can be trimmed back to where insulation damage isn't present and new pins crimped on. Another option is remove the pins from the connector and slide some very small heat shrink tubing over each conductor.

I dont know if I'd want to replace the harness. Ill look at the manual and see how detailed that harness is.

This is on my list of things to do when I get my car back.

 

[Epiphany]

The harness is reasonably short.

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