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Updated 3/27/2021 & 5/5/2022 - A look at the 2020 GT500 and exhaust system valves

Venomous Pony

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My thoughts on the “spring” would be that it acts as a shock absorber like you said, in the event that the valve binds up or is under pressure it protects the motor from those direct forces. Maybe even allow the motor to put some preload on the valve.
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Melmark93

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I'm going to add some old fart wisdom to this issue. WD40 is only a temporary fix because the lubricant part tends to carbon up from the high temps. I had a carb throttle shaft on a Ford 352-2bbl that would get sticky and lubing it with WD40 worked for a week or so, then it would get gummy again. Carb Cleaner permanently removed the goo. The same era of engines had heat riser valves on the cast iron exhaust manifolds. For you young guys, this was a flap on about a 1/4" steel shaft inside the cast exhaust. Operated by a bimetallic spring on the outside, they were forever sticking due to rust. The cure was Heat Riser Lube, a black watery mixture of solvent and graphite like lube. A check on Google revealed that GM stills sells something like this for old Corvettes. I also found on grainger.com - CRC Dry Moly Lube that would free up AND lubricate at the high temps these valves work at. Liquid Wrench is a good cleaner, but leaves very little lube at operating temps.
 

kilobravo

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Mel: MOST excellent information, amigo..many, many thanks. That was a class in high temp lubrication all on its own. :-)

Meanwhile, on Tob's recommendation I went with a gallon of PB Blaster. I'll check out the GM availability.
 

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At some point, some of you may see a message on the dash that looks something like this...

92433320_10163162739090433_1350584128726106112_n.jpg



The dreaded "exhaust mode selection not available" message isn't new as GT350 owners get hit with it every now and then too. There are a number of reasons why the message can come up from melted harnesses, blown fuses, sticking butterfly valves, failed actuators, etc. Since I've spent a lot of time getting to know this exhaust system I figured I'd share what I've seen to date with this system.

I originally added a Lethal Performance resonator delete to my car not long after receiving it. It is a cut and clamp affair and while I was very happy with the sound I wanted to pull the section from the x-pipe back and tig weld it back up. Once reinstalled I wanted to tweak the mufflers so that the quad tips were more in line horizontally. You can tweak here and there a small amount. I wanted more freedom so I cut the mufflers at the fore end, aligned them to my satisfaction, and tack welded everything so I could pull the system again and weld it back up on the ground.

Pulling the system isn't that complicated, it just takes a little time. I removed the rear undertray, disconnected the actuator harnesses, loosened the exhaust clamps/hangers, lowered the system down, and got to work. I just figured this would also be an opportunity to show what you don't normally see regarding the actuators and their butterfly valves below. So with the system out this is what you see...

20200424_195543-XL.jpg



The actuators are perched up above the tips just aft of the mufflers. They are difficult to access from underneath the car. The shaft and plate (or butterfly valve) that they rotate when called upon resides beneath them.

20200424_195610-L.jpg



So if you are this week's winner of the "exhaust mode selection not available" message you can either look yourself and/or drop the car off at your dealer for repair and enter the "that fucking dent wasn't there when I dropped the car off" contest.:)

I put this quick video together to help illustrate.



The above video should put the next few photos into context.

20200425_141957-XL.jpg


20200425_142042-L.jpg



I'm not 100% sure this gets lubricant where I want but it shows that you could get something to the upper shaft "area" without pulling the actuator off...

20200425_150906-XL.jpg



I reassembled after cleaning/lubricating and reinstalled the system. It gets easier each time you do it.

20200425_153056-L.jpg


Most importantly, inspect your harnesses in the area of the valves, ensuring they are not in contact with the mufflers or the tips as they exit the mufflers. Some have had issues with melted harness and blown fuses. When this happens you'll likely get a message regarding mode issues. One of my harnesses was sitting on the exhaust system as it's pushpin to hold it up and away was never put into place. I rerouted it giving it more clearance and zip tied it.

20200424_151305-XL.jpg



You can also have a valve that simply froze up or an actuator that died. But you should be in a better position now to try to identify for yourself what may happened.
Do you, or anyone have ford part #s of the valves, or hell the whole exhaust? (im away from the vehile for a while)
I want a spare set of valves in order to make a custom rear section that still uses OEM controls.
 

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Epiphany

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I asked. The valves are availble separately. Only one part number covers both.

JR3Z 6554 A
 
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Epiphany

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I agree, it doesn't. I'd call.
 

Twisted O CFTP

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I agree, it doesn't. I'd call.
Im having my whole exhaust changed out under warranty due to the valves
Ford has replaced both valves new that didn’t work for long then replaced all the wiring which worked for about a week and now i had a valve flap actually blow out and is missing so ford is now replacing the exhaust back to x pipe hopefully this works its a awesome concept to have the different exhaust modes but not sure if the electric motor should be stronger more heat protection on wiring ect ford does have new programing in the latest version but even that didn't help atleast they are taking care of it
 
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Epiphany

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Jeebus.
 

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V00D00

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Im having my whole exhaust changed out under warranty due to the valves
Ford has replaced both valves new that didn’t work for long then replaced all the wiring which worked for about a week and now i had a valve flap actually blow out and is missing so ford is now replacing the exhaust back to x pipe hopefully this works its a awesome concept to have the different exhaust modes but not sure if the electric motor should be stronger more heat protection on wiring ect ford does have new programing in the latest version but even that didn't help atleast they are taking care of it
well that sucks.. But ive got 4k miles and constant changing, and never had a valve issue. iether its a QC issue, or i feel my car was really paid attentionto for some reason - an early build, through process fast, and 0 production issues.
 

biminiLX

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Im having my whole exhaust changed out under warranty due to the valves
Ford has replaced both valves new that didn’t work for long then replaced all the wiring which worked for about a week and now i had a valve flap actually blow out and is missing so ford is now replacing the exhaust back to x pipe hopefully this works its a awesome concept to have the different exhaust modes but not sure if the electric motor should be stronger more heat protection on wiring ect ford does have new programing in the latest version but even that didn't help atleast they are taking care of it
Have you been open tracking the car?
I’d assume high heat could be a factor but it should still be covered under warranty obviously.
-J
 

Twisted O CFTP

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Have you been open tracking the car?
I’d assume high heat could be a factor but it should still be covered under warranty obviously.
-J
I tracked the car once at sebring the valve issues have been ongoing since I took delivery It is under warranty and actually ford is working hard to figure the problem out since its not a one off problem not sure if heat would be an issue since the valve motor is above the exhaust and the motor is not burnt up the issue is in programming each movement is a permissive to tell the brain which mode is selected if there just a slight over travel or it gets slightly stuck due to carbon buildup u get exhaust valve not active on the dash and it blows a fuse due to the over travel or no travel from the valves
 

Surfergeek

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Well, 300 miles on my car now and started getting the dreaded message today.

Turn car off and back on and active exhaust would work for a little bit and then I would get the not available message.

lubrication issue?

I need to do a more detailed inspection but wiring looked fine.
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