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A/C Evaporator Replaced Due To Leak

Jimayy

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So I have a 2016 Ecoboost base with an automatic. AC had been failing on me in these Texas summers, reddit, this forum and the other says what’s happening. A bill for $2300 is really crazy to replace the AC Evap, the dealership quoted that and they want to replace the whole climate control housing unit (600-900 part alone) instead of the work to just do the AC Evaporator as per the TSB.

Big thanks to Rod Schneider for help with this as well. This project took me all weekend to do it. Started Saturday, finished Sunday. This is best as a two-person job. I had my dad to help, he’s was a big help and of course the one who taught me how to work on cars. So just wanted to share my experience on the whole ordeal. I use PDF manual, and found one free online too, and they compared just okay.

Getting tools right:
Impact driver
Short and long sockets in 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm
Socket wrenches (1/4 or 3/8) – I had both sets
Extensions for sockets
Universal joint
Ratcheting wrenches in 8mm, 10mm, 13mm
Interior trim removal tools
Philips head screwdriver
Flat head screw driver
T20 bit
DeWalt Right Angle Attachment (or similar)

Big Step 1: Prep removal of FLOOR CONSOLE.
This is rather easy, use any of the “install new radio” or “base radio upgrade” in the youtube, and you see most of it.
Note to add here, not that center console is in two parts.
Big Step 2: Depower the Airbags, um I just disconnected the battery.
Big Step 3: WINDSHIELD WIPER PIVOT ARM
Big Step 4: COWL PANEL GRILLE
, ie the black stuff over the battery and windshield wiper area.
My dad removed the linkage of the wiper arms to help aid in the dash bolt removals.
dWtioHbm.jpg

Big Step 5: INSTRUMENT PANEL
The cowl bolts remove them. Jack the vehicle and disconnect the selector level cable. Drain coolant too while you’re here, or later, but before Climate control removal. Undo the bolt/nuts, and the shifter and stuff all just come off, after wiring disconnected. More body/trim panels (I would do these with the rest, I did these before removing shifter, just because I was already tearing out the center, why not get the other panels too. While you’re at this, get the upper door panel trims too, and disconnect the speaker and wires, this doesn’t need to be a last step.
Remove Driver Knee Airbag- There are bolts after you pull a few clips. There are nuts that go behind into the dash, you can definitely feel for them, I used shallow socket.
Hood Latch Release: I used the CJ Pony Parts video for this, it’s 2 minutes long. Use small screwdriver and a ¼ 10mm socket, and this will finish up the rest of the interior/door trip removal.
jueddiLm.jpg

Big Step 6: Steering Column and Get Dash out: Basically disconnect Steering Column and all wiring to the dash and glovebox area. None are the same, and all connect in different ways and styles of locking. It’s not fun, removed seats would have made this better. The A-pillar bolts; the door bolts; the upper is 13mm and lower is 10mm… and they do not come off unless you take the door off, so think of them like the lower receiver pins in an AR15. Captyive. This is where you need the ratcheting wrenches, the socket and wrench combination will get it loose, but to get it all the way out you won’t be able to get the socket back. These are rather long, 3 inches or and will go straight into door. You’ll know when they’re off. Removing the dash out is a two person job, it’s just so bulky. It’s not necessary very heavy, just clunky to carry. So you learn that the shifter really need to be out to make this work.
1SZPwAIm.jpg
w2fAkLVm.jpg

Big Step 7: Remove and Disassemble the Climate Control unit. Taking out the Climate Control is pretty easy. Two 8mm bolts upfront behind the engine. As Rod mentioned, it's easier to get the second one from under the car. Use a ratcheting wrench for this one and the universal joint for the upper 8mm. There are three 10mm bolts inside holding the unit. The toughest part of this was removing the heater core hoses. =( I had the old AC tools but don't think they work on this, I used a tiny screwdriver and wiggled it out after the push in part. I had to use a step ladder and leaned over my fender. (Good news, Mustang fender can handle my overweight 265lbs body on it).
88gUS0Vl.jpg

Refer to TSB-18-2256. It’s pretty straight forward. Remove the cable/wiring, it can only go one way. Basically using a T20 bit, remove all the screws. The TSB said you’d need T27 and T40, but unless I missed something this whole thing I just used the T20. There is an order to go about in order to get the parts correctly.The evaporator comes out fairly easily. There were some problems putting in the new one, the hose was not in the same alignment. So we flex a little bit of muscles to make sure the hose cleared the opening and lined back up in its slot on the Climate Housing Unit. Using A/C Manifold Gauge set ($45 from Harbor Freight) and vacuum pump to get things tested too.
u7ZlNt5l.jpg

Big Step 8: Put things back in. Good news, almost all cables/wires only plug into one place so can’t mess it up. Don’t forget wire to cup holder or you’ll get “No Key Detected”.

I had the FR3Z-19860-A (C is the newest) and comes with the A/C Expansion valve already installed.
I had considered Replacement Aftermarket parts (I was worried that the Motorcraft would fail again). If I’d have to do it again, I’d try one just to see. AC Evaporator are relatively cheap, but didn’t appear to come with expansion valve ($12+25 extra to get one). Prices are RockAuto vs CarID. Ebay and Amazon have mark up on the TYC and UAC, but shipping varies I think.
TYC 97375 - $40.85 - 43.79 unshipped, says they make OEM stuff and ford is listed.
UAC EV940154PFC - $46.47 – 50.79 unshipped. My tech friend at a Honda dealership says UAC stuff is good to go, they use them in the used car fleet.
GPD 4712210 - $74.79 unshipped. They seem solid, but for some reason I liked TYC or UAC more.
Expansion Valves had choices between GPD 3411615 $12.26, UAC EX10568C 12.34 and Four Seasons 39540 $15.20 or Motorcraft YG809 $21.79 (Rockauto prices)

Been a week now since I've had it back. Pressure is holding and AC runs. Will clean out hoses and add UV Dye to check again in a week. Before the Texas August hits. So far so good.
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Elp_jc

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Holy crap! Hope I never have to do that. Good job man. And thank you for writing the how-to.
 

Emilbadal

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Hi guys, I’m looking down the barrel of this massive job too. I have couple of questions:

1- did you have to buy any o-rings or gaskets to reseal the system or did the kit come with all required stuff?
2- I have base single zone evaporator, do you think if it’s possible to convert to dual zone? (if I buy the wire harness and second door actuator and ofcourse the dual zone evaporator and I’ve already installed sync3 too)
 

Jimayy

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Hi guys, I’m looking down the barrel of this massive job too. I have couple of questions:

1- did you have to buy any o-rings or gaskets to reseal the system or did the kit come with all required stuff?
2- I have base single zone evaporator, do you think if it’s possible to convert to dual zone? (if I buy the wire harness and second door actuator and ofcourse the dual zone evaporator and I’ve already installed sync3 too)
it should come with them when you order the new evaporator. Well a motorcraft should have the gaskets. I can't recall if the 3rd parties will. Check RockAuto and CarID to see. None of this stuff will be local except for a ford dealership, and that's already $$$. Motorcraft came with the expansion valve so I didn't need to get a 3rd party one, but if you go with a UAC orTYC evaporator core, you'll need a new expansion valve.

I can't comment on the second part... I guess you could try using a ford parts search and type up a car with dual zone, and see. I'd imagine all the AC parts install in similar fashion, as there seems to be only one spot they seem to be able to go.
Hope it helps
 

RIBS

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Wow, that’s a massive job.
Wasn’t there a revised TSB that didn’t require dash removal?
 

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Rod Schneider

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Wow, that’s a massive job.
Wasn’t there a revised TSB that didn’t require dash removal?
No, it's not possible to get to the evaporator without removing the climate control unit, which can't be done without removing the dash......
The original TSB had you replacing the entire climate control unit, as the evaporator was not available separately. Ford later revised the TSB to replace the evaporator only.
 

Emilbadal

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it should come with them when you order the new evaporator. Well a motorcraft should have the gaskets. I can't recall if the 3rd parties will. Check RockAuto and CarID to see. None of this stuff will be local except for a ford dealership, and that's already $$$. Motorcraft came with the expansion valve so I didn't need to get a 3rd party one, but if you go with a UAC orTYC evaporator core, you'll need a new expansion valve.

I can't comment on the second part... I guess you could try using a ford parts search and type up a car with dual zone, and see. I'd imagine all the AC parts install in similar fashion, as there seems to be only one spot they seem to be able to go.
Hope it helps
Thanks so much for the information. Just one more question, did you add any PAG oil to the system while you replaced the evaporator? And if so, how much did you use? I couldn't find any info on this, other than the capacity of the system.
 

16RRGT

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Did you happen to see any visual or noticeable differences between the old and new EVAP cores - such as any possible physical revisions?
As my second evaporator just died (first having been fixed under the TSB under warranty) I asked this same question and the answer was definitively "no."
 

Jimayy

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Thanks so much for the information. Just one more question, did you add any PAG oil to the system while you replaced the evaporator? And if so, how much did you use? I couldn't find any info on this, other than the capacity of the system.
I dont recall putting any PAG back in the system, I think there was still oil as the vacuum doesn't pull the oil. We did use some of that leak finder dye which was a PAG combo type from the auto store. I didn't add


As my second evaporator just died (first having been fixed under the TSB under warranty) I asked this same question and the answer was definitively "no."
You had a second one died?! Holy crap. Well if this motorcraft one dies on me, I'm gonna try one of the UAC or TYC core then. The hot months are coming back and so far so good. Good luck.
 

spedy7

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Great write-up and sums it all up well. I'd add that you don't really need to remove the dash if you're short on space/manpower and are reasonably flexible. We usually just roll the dash over onto the seats with some fender covers over the seats and handbrake. Saves a bit of time and the pain of walking a dash through and out the side. Don't really need to remove the driver knee airbag if you have tools (and flexibility) to reach the column shaft bolt. Inspect the evaporators prior too, had one or two come in with a smashed core that was no bueno.

Happy wrenching :p
 

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I need to look for ac leak, do I just get a blue light uv? I want to look so if I am leaking, I get it warrantied. im at 32k miles I dont really stress test it, I live in a mild climate, and I honestly barely ever use ac.
 

spedy7

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I need to look for ac leak, do I just get a blue light uv? I want to look so if I am leaking, I get it warrantied. im at 32k miles I dont really stress test it, I live in a mild climate, and I honestly barely ever use ac.
UV lights are usually listed as such and more of a purple hue. Best to find one with yellow glasses included or buy them separately, really helps find dye better. If you're checking for the evaporator, look under the car at the drains on the LH and RH side of the transmission - you may or may not see dye around there. If you know there is a leak but no visible dye on the compressor, condenser, or lines, there's a good chance it is the evaporator.
 

TheEnglishGuy

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The correct procedure is:
1: Douse car liberally, inside and out, with gasoline.
2: Light
3: Call insurance.

My first core made it all of 2 1/4 years but got replaced under warranty.

My second made it 2 1/2 years and just past my 4yr warranty. Dealer wanted $3,200 for their retail gouging pricing. Eventually got Ford to agree to split the cost at $2,400 warranty pricing, so $1,200 for me but then they sat on it for so long that my rental brought it to almost $2k.

Not quite two months later… no… seriously… not even two full months later, it just crapped out again.

Taking it in tomorrow morning, as soon as they reopen after Christmas. It should be under the one year warranty but I have a scary feeling they’ll weasel that the $200 part is under warranty while I’m on the hook for the $3,000 labor that they’ll try billing at retail markup.

Ford’s inability to build functional, reliable evaporator cores is currently costing me $250/week in labor to keep replacing them.

There’s been talk of a class action lawsuit over this. Can someone get on it, this is ridiculous.
 

Eric Eggers

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Is it possible to do this job on an automatic without removing the shifter?
 
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Rod Schneider

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Pulling the automatic shifter is pretty easy once the console is out, just unhook the selector cable under the car, unplug the electric connectors, and 4 nuts and it just lifts out. It makes moving the dash assembly MUCH easier with no danger of damaging the shifter......
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