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A/C Evaporator Factory Defect

Carp0331

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Has anyone had a bad core that was cold on the driver side but only cool on the passenger side. Just got a 2016 and the dealership I purchased it from said they replaced the actuator but that only lasted a week. I see most core issues is the driver side warm but I am having the opposite issue.
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GT Pony

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Has anyone had a bad core that was cold on the driver side but only cool on the passenger side. Just got a 2016 and the dealership I purchased it from said they replaced the actuator but that only lasted a week. I see most core issues is the driver side warm but I am having the opposite issue.
If the driver's side is colder than the passenger side, then it's probably not the evaporator core - more like a blending door control issue.
 

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It is very easy to get hot and cold vents at the same time by having low refrigerant charge. If it’s all hot in a few days/weeks, you know it was a leak.

source: I’ve seen this demonstrated on a test bench.
 

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I’m going back to the dealership tomorrow for them to check it out. I do have a 3/3000 mile warranty that hopefully would cover it. I’m leaving towards the core since they have replaced the actuator but it would be nice to know if they added freon when they serviced it. Then I’ll be fairly certain there was a leak.
 

Freedom

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2 years solid on mine since the repair but the car doesn't get driven as much. Maybe 10K miles since.
 

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Had mine repaired last summer by dealer. Observed smell and sound in cabin and hot air all around. Took 2 months to get it repaired and they managed to scratch up pretty much every panel in the interior including window tint. Finally got my damaged, dirty car back.

Now this summer (yes 1 year, 3k miles), blowing hot air on driver side gradually got worse. Observed hissing sound under glove box. Added some refrigerant; so, we will see. A bit odd I couldn't get it to take any more than 30 psi in 105 degree weather. I did find switching the A/C on/off and adding R134 as the valve opened seemed to help slightly to get it to take a little more. Also explains why it is worse sitting than driving as it seems to be flirting with whatever the pressure threshold is to function properly (on my gauge 25 psi but unsure of manufacturer's spec).

I'm inclined to believe other's theories that the o-rings get dry without regular use, and we could probably get away with just replacing the o-ring (of course located deep in the dash) and/or a "re-gas." Also, I see a lot of hype about "if you don't use the oil you will kill your compressor," but every can I saw at the parts store had oil included.

Thank god I don't have a 2018.

Context:
2017 Mustang GT Manual PP
Miles at repair 75k
Miles now 78k (1 year later)
Dry California climate
 
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Freedom

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Had mine repaired last summer by dealer. Observed smell and sound in cabin and hot air all around. Took 2 months to get it repaired and they managed to scratch up pretty much every panel in the interior including window tint. Finally got my damaged, dirty car back.

Now this summer (yes 1 year, 3k miles), blowing hot air on driver side gradually got worse. Observed hissing sound under glove box. Added some refrigerant; so, we will see. A bit odd I couldn't get it to take any more than 30 psi in 105 degree weather. I did find switching the A/C on/off and adding R134 as the valve opened seemed to help slightly to get it to take a little more. Also explains why it is worse sitting than driving as it seems to be flirting with whatever the pressure threshold is to function properly (on my gauge 25 psi but unsure of manufacturer's spec).

I'm inclined to believe other's theories that the o-rings get dry without regular use, and we could probably get away with just replacing the o-ring (of course located deep in the dash) and/or a "re-gas." Also, I see a lot of hype about "if you don't use the oil you will kill your compressor," but every can I saw at the parts store had oil included.

Thank god I don't have a 2018.

Context:
2017 Mustang GT Manual PP
Miles at repair 75k
Miles now 78k (1 year later)
Dry California climate
I recall mine hissed passenger side around the time the evap died on mine originally. Also when mine died, I drove it ATLEAST every weekend so it shouldn't be due to dry o-rings or whatever. AC is on everytime I get in the car. I drove it way less the pass 2 years during covid.

not entirely sure about the o-ring situation but I wanted to explain my circumstance before failure since we're both in dry cali weather.
 

Robpacific

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Had mine repaired last summer by dealer. Observed smell and sound in cabin and hot air all around. Took 2 months to get it repaired and they managed to scratch up pretty much every panel in the interior including window tint. Finally got my damaged, dirty car back.

Now this summer (yes 1 year, 3k miles), blowing hot air on driver side gradually got worse. Observed hissing sound under glove box. Added some refrigerant; so, we will see. A bit odd I couldn't get it to take any more than 30 psi in 105 degree weather. I did find switching the A/C on/off and adding R134 as the valve opened seemed to help slightly to get it to take a little more. Also explains why it is worse sitting than driving as it seems to be flirting with whatever the pressure threshold is to function properly (on my gauge 25 psi but unsure of manufacturer's spec).

I'm inclined to believe other's theories that the o-rings get dry without regular use, and we could probably get away with just replacing the o-ring (of course located deep in the dash) and/or a "re-gas." Also, I see a lot of hype about "if you don't use the oil you will kill your compressor," but every can I saw at the parts store had oil included.

Thank god I don't have a 2018.

Context:
2017 Mustang GT Manual PP
Miles at repair 75k
Miles now 78k (1 year later)
Dry California climate
Can't get it to take any more R134 above 25 psi. Taking it in to a shop with AC machine to see if it's (probably) full of air and oil. Awesome.
 

Freedom

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Can't get it to take any more R134 above 25 psi. Taking it in to a shop with AC machine to see if it's (probably) full of air and oil. Awesome.
Any update?
 

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Did he measure the high pressure side of the system? Did someone recharge it recently? Sounfs like the system has been over charged.
Any idea where the high pressure port is on a GT? I can't see it in my car, so figure something is blocking my view. Am trying to hook up manifold gauges to both high and low. Been searching the web and this forum plus the factory service manual but no pics of where it is. A zillion pics and videos for the low side for people only wanting to add freon.
 

GT Pony

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Any idea where the high pressure port is on a GT? I can't see it in my car, so figure something is blocking my view. Am trying to hook up manifold gauges to both high and low. Been searching the web and this forum plus the factory service manual but no pics of where it is. A zillion pics and videos for the low side for people only wanting to add freon.
Not 100% sure, but looks like it could be on that stinger tube coming off the low side line. See attached. Let us know if that's indeed where it is.

1673217776131.png
 

HoosierDaddy

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Not 100% sure, but looks like it could be on that stinger tube coming off the low side line. See attached. Let us know if that's indeed where it is.

1673217776131.png
Thanks!

The high port is right above the compressor in that pic. In reality it is above but forward of the compressor. I had been looking for it between the compressor and the firewall like the low side was. Doh!
 

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I’m 99% sure I used forscan to tell me the pressure rather than connecting a high pressure gauge when I replaced my condenser.
 

HoosierDaddy

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I’m 99% sure I used forscan to tell me the pressure rather than connecting a high pressure gauge when I replaced my condenser.
Thanks. Will research that.
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