9 Speaker Audio Upgrade - Add sub and amp using factory sub wiring for signal(No LOC)

[Black5oh19]

I have a 2019 GT premium convertible with the 9 speaker system, and I am trying to add a JL 10w7 to give it a little boost. I have only seen people add subs by splicing into speakers to get high level input signal, but I am attempting to get a pure signal for the sub without replacing any factory parts with after market ones. My theory is to take advantage of the wiring that exists in my mustang for the optional factory shaker sub woofer. This way should allow me to keep the factory equalizer settings while still getting a good signal to my amp. I would really love any feedback, correction, or help from anyone. Here is my plan.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-to-add-factory-subwoofer-to-trunk.105567/

This thread has many people upgrading their systems with factory sub woofers that never came with their cars by using the 40 pin connector in the trunk for that factory amp and sub. I have already made sure that my mustang has this connector and bought the harness to connect to it. From what I have read on the thread, I believe 3 things need to happen for the 40pin connector to be usable.

1. The 9 speaker AMP/DSP in the driver foot well needs to be replaced with one from a 12 speaker shaker pro audio car. The part numbers are the same except the last 2 characters. The first of those 2 characters must be a C for it to be the 12 speaker amp with the hardware to support the factory sub. Mine ended in AA and is being replaced with one ending in CK.

2. In Forscan, "DSP AsBuilt - 783-01-01 change from 8000 0C to 1000 9C"

3. I must access the 40 pin connector. To do this, I bought the factory wiring harness Part# JR3Z14A411C. I hope to splice into these wires to get an unaltered signal and some sort of switch wire. If I can't find a diagram, I will be testing these wires with a volt meter and oscilloscope.

Sponsored

 

[Cathul]

Or you just get a T-harness for behind the radio and fetch the variable line level output and remote turn on there.

 

[StangTime]

There's no need to get a pure signal for a subwoofer. As long as the bass content is there and that be be done by removing the factory bass roll-off with Forscan, any noise, or harmonic distortion isn't going to be noticeable in the frequency range of 20 - 100hz. Just buy a sub woofer amp that accepts high-level inputs and tap off the rear speaker wires, and run power to the amp.

 

[Black5oh19]

What needs to be changed in forscan to remove the bass roll off? Also, will I risk damaging the stock speakers if the bass roll off is removed?

 

[StangTime]

What needs to be changed in forscan to remove the bass roll off? Also, will I risk damaging the stock speakers if the bass roll off is removed?

ACM, module# 727-01-02 x0xx (set the number between the x's to zero)

There is a chance of blowing speakers if you crank it to high distortion levels. It will be ok at moderate listening. Just back down if it starts to sound distorted or strained.

 

[mfk2910]

I have a 2019 GT premium convertible with the 9 speaker system, and I am trying to add a JL 10w7 to give it a little boost. I have only seen people add subs by splicing into speakers to get high level input signal, but I am attempting to get a pure signal for the sub without replacing any factory parts with after market ones. My theory is to take advantage of the wiring that exists in my mustang for the optional factory shaker sub woofer. This way should allow me to keep the factory equalizer settings while still getting a good signal to my amp. I would really love any feedback, correction, or help from anyone. Here is my plan.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-to-add-factory-subwoofer-to-trunk.105567/

This thread has many people upgrading their systems with factory sub woofers that never came with their cars by using the 40 pin connector in the trunk for that factory amp and sub. I have already made sure that my mustang has this connector and bought the harness to connect to it. From what I have read on the thread, I believe 3 things need to happen for the 40pin connector to be usable.

1. The 9 speaker AMP/DSP in the driver foot well needs to be replaced with one from a 12 speaker shaker pro audio car. The part numbers are the same except the last 2 characters. The first of those 2 characters must be a C for it to be the 12 speaker amp with the hardware to support the factory sub. Mine ended in AA and is being replaced with one ending in CK.

2. In Forscan, "DSP AsBuilt - 783-01-01 change from 8000 0C to 1000 9C"

3. I must access the 40 pin connector. To do this, I bought the factory wiring harness Part# JR3Z14A411C. I hope to splice into these wires to get an unaltered signal and some sort of switch wire. If I can't find a diagram, I will be testing these wires with a volt meter and oscilloscope.

I read all the pages from that thread and no one listed exactly the necessary parts to do the install. They spread the information all over the place that it was hard to keep up. Please update us of your steps taken and the results and this would be the go to thread for me in the future <3

 

[DrZed]

I recently did this on my '21 - 9 speaker. Added a sub, LOC to the rear speaker loom in the trunk. I am using a Pioneer Champion 10" sub (overkill for me), turned way down and cutoff around 95-100 Hz on the amp. Man alive it is a clean sound and hard thump. I am tweaking with the EQ on spotify to further the SQ. Next to replace the mids in the doors.

 

[TonyNJ]

I recently did this on my '21 - 9 speaker. Added a sub, LOC to the rear speaker loom in the trunk. I am using a Pioneer Champion 10" sub (overkill for me), turned way down and cutoff around 95-100 Hz on the amp. Man alive it is a clean sound and hard thump. I am tweaking with the EQ on spotify to further the SQ. Next to replace the mids in the doors.

Nice. Did you have to do the FORSCAN to remove that bass roll off issue that Stangtime posted about above? Or was it as simple as you described? Hopefully.

 

[DrZed]

Nice. Did you have to do the FORSCAN to remove that bass roll off issue that Stangtime posted about above? Or was it as simple as you described? Hopefully.

I have not done the programming and it sounds this good. I will look into programming soon.

 

[TonyNJ]

Can anyone here recommend a quality hard hitting compact powered subwoofer? Preferably a thinner square type that I can lay on the floor behind the front seat?

 

[Deleted member 35775]

Can anyone here recommend a quality hard hitting compact powered subwoofer? Preferably a thinner square type that I can lay on the floor behind the front seat?

I used a Hideaway® HS10 and a Hideaway® HS8 in my GT, with/9 speaker system. i used extra-long zip-ties and mounted the powered subs vertically just below the back seat on the driver and passenger sides. for audio output, I tapped into the rear speakers and used a LC2i line converter that has RCA line out specifically for subwoofers. it took a while to tune to my liking, however, it provided much better bass.

 

[TonyNJ]

I used a Hideaway® HS10 and a Hideaway® HS8 in my GT, with/9 speaker system. i used extra-long zip-ties and mounted the powered subs vertically just below the back seat on the driver and passenger sides. for audio output, I tapped into the rear speakers and used a LC2i line converter that has RCA line out specifically for subwoofers. it took a while to tune to my liking, however, it provided much better bass.

Nice. Did you run power directly from the battery to the amps or tap in somewhere near the rear? Is yours a convertible as well?

 

[Deleted member 35775]

Nice. Did you run power directly from the battery to the amps or tap in somewhere near the rear? Is yours a convertible as well?

1. one direct line from the battery split to to both powered subwoofers
2. no, my GT was not a convertible

 

[gpierce]

Nice. Did you run power directly from the battery to the amps or tap in somewhere near the rear? Is yours a convertible as well?

My vert is an auto so I ran the power for my amp in the trunk through the clutch grommet. Connected it to the power tower where the fuses are (not direct to battery). Direct to battery would have current draw the BMS can't detect.

 

[TonyNJ]

My vert is an auto so I ran the power for my amp in the trunk through the clutch grommet. Connected it to the power tower where the fuses are (not direct to battery). Direct to battery would have current draw the BMS can't detect.

I like that idea. Off to search for clutch grommet location... Never liked connecting to battery for stuff. Problems.

Sponsored