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5 gen whipple with strut tower brace

Angrey

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I'm not done yet, but from my test fit you can use the strut tower brace with the 5 gen whipple. I lowered the engine using the BMR upper motor mounts so that I could retain the lower portion for NVH purposes. These mounts are made for a GT though so you will need a spacer to properly mount your starter. After taking off the insulation pad under the hood, I'm left with 11mm of play room from what I've come to. More to come.

Out of curiosity, has anyone used a reflective insulation before? I was thinking about putting that under the hood to help off set some of the direct heat off possible.
20200505_221004.jpg
Can you elaborate on the spacer issue with the starter? I'm about to start my gen5 install with BMR mounts.
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Kobi Addiction

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The motor torques and moves but not in the way you guys are thinking. The motor mounts (unless solid) are soft UNDER the nut. Meaning when the motor torques, it squishes the lower portion of one side (while the other stays retained by the nut on the mount stud). So yes, the motor moves a bit, but only down on one side, never higher that it originally starts.
I've been running my strut tower brace on my Gen 4 Whipple for a few months now. It has not touched, even under hard acceleration or through hard turns. I was skeptical in the beginning with people telling me it wont work, but just like you said....I believe it torque's downward.

Tower Brace 2.jpg

Tower Brace 1.jpg

Tower Brace 3.jpg
 
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Angrey

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I've been running my strut tower brace on my Gen 4 Whipple for a few month now. It has not touched, even under hard acceleration or through hard turns. I was skeptical in the beginning with people telling me it wont work, but just like you said....I believe it torque's downward.

Tower Brace 2.jpg

Tower Brace 1.jpg

Tower Brace 3.jpg
Did you use spacers at the strut towers? Any mods on the heat blanket or the hood?
 

Kobi Addiction

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Did you use spacers at the strut towers? Any mods on the heat blanket or the hood?
Yes, I took some measurements and used spacers. The FP brace touches the factory heat blanket on the hood, but doesnt push up against the hood enough to show any gaps at the fenders. No other modifications required besides the spacers.

I will note that the driver side tower brace studs are shorter than the passenger side, so you wont get as much meat on the threads when tightening it down. I plan to replace with longer studs when I get back under the vehicle soon.

Tower Brace 6.jpg

Tower Brace 4.jpg

Tower Brace 5.jpg
 

JCSIX13

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Yes, I took some measurements and used spacers. The FP brace touches the factory heat blanket on the hood, but doesnt push up against the hood enough to show any gaps at the fenders. No other modifications required besides the spacers.

I will note that the driver side tower brace studs are shorter than the passenger side, so you wont get as much meat on the threads when tightening it down. I plan to replace with longer studs when I get back under the vehicle soon.

Tower Brace 6.jpg

Tower Brace 4.jpg

Tower Brace 5.jpg
what size are the spacers you are using?
 

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GT30fan

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Does lowering the motor from stock change the handling of the car much?
 

Kobi Addiction

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JCSIX13

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Slamdcoop0428

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I'm not done yet, but from my test fit you can use the strut tower brace with the 5 gen whipple. I lowered the engine using the BMR upper motor mounts so that I could retain the lower portion for NVH purposes. These mounts are made for a GT though so you will need a spacer to properly mount your starter. After taking off the insulation pad under the hood, I'm left with 11mm of play room from what I've come to. More to come.

Out of curiosity, has anyone used a reflective insulation before? I was thinking about putting that under the hood to help off set some of the direct heat off possible.
20200505_221004.jpg
Hey buddy, what spacer did you use for the starter bolt when using the BMR engine brackets? Thanks
 

The Rooster

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Do you think it’ll still clear when the engine torque’s? I’d like to do a Whipple but don’t want to lose the brace.
don’t let that stop you. The brace isn’t needed.
and if you were that adamant about having the support you could likely have a brace fabbed up.
 

Kobi Addiction

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Does lowering the motor from stock change the handling of the car much?
I wouldnt think in a negative way. It's maybe 1/4" lower from stock. You're lowering the center of gravity of the vehicle, so I feel it would increase handling if anything. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in....

I lowered my engine close to a 1/2" and I honestly can't feel a difference driving on the street but I also have 1" lowering springs.
 

Kobi Addiction

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I performed some aggressive pulls and the engine did in fact touch the driver side of the strut tower brace. I noticed the following day when I performed some routine engine fluid checks. Because of this, I went ahead and installed Steeda's adjustable engine mounts and lowered the engine another 1/4". I have much better clearance from the strut bar and now a harder durometer mount for less engine movement.

Due to the factory steering rack, this is the most you will be able to lower the motor with the Steeda mounts. It's adjustable up to 3/4" but that is not possible without a slim aftermarket power steering assembly.

C2415B44-7C68-490E-8D34-785E60580427.jpeg

B58C051C-1FD3-412B-A68B-9AA3499F90F2.jpeg
 
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Slamdcoop0428

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I performed some aggressive pulls and the engine did in fact touch the driver side of the strut tower brace. I noticed the following day when I performed some routine engine fluid checks. Because of this, I went ahead and installed Steeda's adjustable engine mounts and lowered the engine another 1/4". I have much better clearance from the strut bar and now a harder durometer mount for less engine movement.

Due to the factory steering rack, this is the most you will be able to lower the motor with the Steeda mounts. It's adjustable up to 3/4" but that is not possible without a slim aftermarket steering assembly.

C2415B44-7C68-490E-8D34-785E60580427.jpeg

B58C051C-1FD3-412B-A68B-9AA3499F90F2.jpeg

How is your Oil pan clearance with the k member now after dropping the engine even more?
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