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joe603

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The Amp Pro has its own remote turn on lead. Using the amp pro will move the warning chimes to your external amp and allow them to play through your new system.
Why are you using an LOC? You don’t need it at all when using the Amp Pro. The amp pro pulls a flat, unattenuated signal from the head unit which is the best you can get from Sync 3.

As for the rear tweeters, you’re better off mounting them with the speakers as you won’t really hear them when tuned correctly. The closer the tweeters are to the midrange the better your staging will be.

Since you have to pull the dash to install the AP4 you should just unplug the center channel saving you cutting any wires.

Finally, the voltage inputs will be determined by the amp you use. 4v will typically have a lower noise floor but if your amp accepts 5v inputs I’d start there. It’s easily switched in the amp pro.
I'm using the LOC now and have the sub gain wired to the dash. I wasn't sure if I could use that for the AmpPro Non-Fading input. It's an RJ45...

I could probably run the remote turn on from the AmpPro to the FD01 harness for one of the rear speaker leads...pick that up in the trunk and run it to the amps vs. run a 14ga wire for the lead from the front of the car.

I'm going to run the front tweeter wires direct from the component output (which I can hopefully mount under the dash near the wire harness.)

Here is a diagram for everything:
updated Stereo Diagram.jpg
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Evolvd

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Your setup seems pretty convoluted. The FD01 allows you to use the stock wiring in the car so you don’t have to run wires everywhere. The non-fader control for the Amp Pro is basically a base volume knob but you’ll still have fader and balance controls in the head unit as long as you’re using the RCA preouts.

Since you’re not running a three way up front I’d de-pin the mid range wires on the FD01 plug and use those to run a direct lead to your new tweeters. This will allow you to mount your crossovers next to your amps vs under the dash. You can run the single pair rears to your amp since they are full-range and then split those at your crossovers which you could mount under the rear dash next to your components.
 

joe603

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I am running a 3-way up front. 2-way in the rear. The only change I could do is to use the rear speaker leads for the Front component set inputs, and mount them under the dash. Then I would have to run the remote turn-on from the AmpPro to the trunk with the RCAs. The amp I have isn't huge...80rms I believe. The factory wiring should be able to handle it.

I forgot about the subwoofer wiring harness...I could use that also to carry the signal from the amp to the front component set. This may be a better option as those wires are probably thicker. I thought there was another amp for the OEM sub? The signal still comes from the Radio, but I'm not sure what that looks like.

Or just run a pair of speaker wires from the amp to the component set...need to run RCAs anyway.
 
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Evolvd

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I guess I’m still not following your logic then. So here’s what I did and maybe that’ll make sense to you.

I have the pac amp pro running optical and remote power wire to the trunk (RCA won’t make any difference to this).
The optical/RCA is plugged into my amp and remote to the power distribution block. I wired the rear speakers directly to the amp bypassing all the stock wiring. The FD01 is modified by de-pinning the “rear” leads and I repurposed those for my front tweeters. The 3.5 and 6.5 have their own channels now. Center speaker is disconnected in the dash so that wire on the FD01 is capped and unused.
The pigtail end of the FD01 is connected to the amp using all the normal front channel wires and the aforementioned rear channels as my tweeter wires.

You can copy this setup by using your crossovers near your amps and running the single channel in from the amp and then running the pigtail wiring as your three way outs on the FD01.
 

joe603

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With the center disconnected, can you still hear parking sensors, GPS voice and chimes?
 

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Mine is wired almost exactly the same as Evolvd (one of my mentors :) ). This method is effective and seems a lot less complicated to me.
 

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It's complicated because that's how it looks when you break it down and draw out the setup! I'm doing the same method as both you guys...just trying to figure out how to get the door 3-way component set signal from the amp in the trunk to the crossover for the set. If that crossover is located in the trunk, then you have to run the low/mid lines to the PAC wiring harness in the dash (to get to the door mid/low) and the high lines direct to the tweeter...so that's 3 pairs for each side that need to be run. If the crossovers are near the PAC, then you just need to get the one pair for each side to the crossover, and the low/mid can run to the PAC under the dash and the high can run direct to the high (tweeters).

The second method (crossovers near the PAC) is probably the easiest...just need to either use the factory wiring or just run speaker wire. The trick of using the rear speaker lines in the factory harness is one way...or the no-longer used subwoofer lines is another.

Then the remote turn-on line...this could also use the factory wiring from the rear deck speakers (if that's not used for the front 3-way crossovers) as a method from getting from the trunk to the PAC then to the AmpPro feed. Or just run the wire with the RCAs that go to the AmpPro anyway. I'm leaning towards just running a 14ga wire along with the RCAs to keep it simple.

Sorry for the double posts...not sure what's up with my browser.
 

Evolvd

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It's complicated because that's how it looks when you break it down and draw out the setup! I'm doing the same method as both you guys...just trying to figure out how to get the door 3-way component set signal from the amp in the trunk to the crossover for the set. If that crossover is located in the trunk, then you have to run the low/mid lines to the PAC wiring harness in the dash (to get to the door mid/low) and the high lines direct to the tweeter...so that's 3 pairs for each side that need to be run. If the crossovers are near the PAC, then you just need to get the one pair for each side to the crossover, and the low/mid can run to the PAC under the dash and the high can run direct to the high (tweeters).

The second method (crossovers near the PAC) is probably the easiest...just need to either use the factory wiring or just run speaker wire. The trick of using the rear speaker lines in the factory harness is one way...or the no-longer used subwoofer lines is another.

Then the remote turn-on line...this could also use the factory wiring from the rear deck speakers (if that's not used for the front 3-way crossovers) as a method from getting from the trunk to the PAC then to the AmpPro feed. Or just run the wire with the RCAs that go to the AmpPro anyway. I'm leaning towards just running a 14ga wire along with the RCAs to keep it simple.

Sorry for the double posts...not sure what's up with my browser.
I’ll draw a line diagram today and show you the easiest way to do this job. Trust me you’re making it harder than it will be 😉
 

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Evolvd

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Here ya go, tried to do this in Paint but lost my patience.

Let me know if this makes sense. You can mount both crossovers near the amp, run your amp output to both and then connect the FD01 to the crossovers. Use the rear speaker wiring in the FD01 for your tweeters and then de-pin or cut them at the plug, add a few feet to each, and then run that wire into the A-pillars.

The FD01 does not connect to the OEM amp, it’s connects the to outlet from the amp going to the stock wiring. The stock wiring is more than enough to handle 100 watts per channel.

You don’t need 14 gauge for the remote wire. 18ga. is plenty big enough as it’s a very small amperage.
IMG_0946.jpeg
 

Bassackwards

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It's complicated because that's how it looks when you break it down and draw out the setup! I'm doing the same method as both you guys...just trying to figure out how to get the door 3-way component set signal from the amp in the trunk to the crossover for the set. If that crossover is located in the trunk, then you have to run the low/mid lines to the PAC wiring harness in the dash (to get to the door mid/low) and the high lines direct to the tweeter...so that's 3 pairs for each side that need to be run. If the crossovers are near the PAC, then you just need to get the one pair for each side to the crossover, and the low/mid can run to the PAC under the dash and the high can run direct to the high (tweeters).

The second method (crossovers near the PAC) is probably the easiest...just need to either use the factory wiring or just run speaker wire. The trick of using the rear speaker lines in the factory harness is one way...or the no-longer used subwoofer lines is another.

Then the remote turn-on line...this could also use the factory wiring from the rear deck speakers (if that's not used for the front 3-way crossovers) as a method from getting from the trunk to the PAC then to the AmpPro feed. Or just run the wire with the RCAs that go to the AmpPro anyway. I'm leaning towards just running a 14ga wire along with the RCAs to keep it simple.

Sorry for the double posts...not sure what's up with my browser.
I have 2 ways up front and I run the full signal to the 6.5, then to the crossover in the door under the window switch, then up to the 3.5 wiring that sends it up to the tweeter in the A pillar. The 3.5 wiring at the old amp is disabled. It works and is very clean.
 

Bassackwards

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It's complicated because that's how it looks when you break it down and draw out the setup! I'm doing the same method as both you guys...just trying to figure out how to get the door 3-way component set signal from the amp in the trunk to the crossover for the set. If that crossover is located in the trunk, then you have to run the low/mid lines to the PAC wiring harness in the dash (to get to the door mid/low) and the high lines direct to the tweeter...so that's 3 pairs for each side that need to be run. If the crossovers are near the PAC, then you just need to get the one pair for each side to the crossover, and the low/mid can run to the PAC under the dash and the high can run direct to the high (tweeters).

The second method (crossovers near the PAC) is probably the easiest...just need to either use the factory wiring or just run speaker wire. The trick of using the rear speaker lines in the factory harness is one way...or the no-longer used subwoofer lines is another.

Then the remote turn-on line...this could also use the factory wiring from the rear deck speakers (if that's not used for the front 3-way crossovers) as a method from getting from the trunk to the PAC then to the AmpPro feed. Or just run the wire with the RCAs that go to the AmpPro anyway. I'm leaning towards just running a 14ga wire along with the RCAs to keep it simple.

Sorry for the double posts...not sure what's up with my browser.
I have 2 ways up front and I run the full signal to the 6.5, then to the crossover in the door under the window switch, then up to the 3.5 wiring that sends it up to the tweeter in the A pillar. The 3.5 wiring at the old amp is disabled. It works and is very clean.
 

Bassackwards

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It's complicated because that's how it looks when you break it down and draw out the setup! I'm doing the same method as both you guys...just trying to figure out how to get the door 3-way component set signal from the amp in the trunk to the crossover for the set. If that crossover is located in the trunk, then you have to run the low/mid lines to the PAC wiring harness in the dash (to get to the door mid/low) and the high lines direct to the tweeter...so that's 3 pairs for each side that need to be run. If the crossovers are near the PAC, then you just need to get the one pair for each side to the crossover, and the low/mid can run to the PAC under the dash and the high can run direct to the high (tweeters).

The second method (crossovers near the PAC) is probably the easiest...just need to either use the factory wiring or just run speaker wire. The trick of using the rear speaker lines in the factory harness is one way...or the no-longer used subwoofer lines is another.

Then the remote turn-on line...this could also use the factory wiring from the rear deck speakers (if that's not used for the front 3-way crossovers) as a method from getting from the trunk to the PAC then to the AmpPro feed. Or just run the wire with the RCAs that go to the AmpPro anyway. I'm leaning towards just running a 14ga wire along with the RCAs to keep it simple.

Sorry for the double posts...not sure what's up with my browser.
I have 2 ways up front and I run the full signal to the 6.5, then to the crossover in the door under the window switch, then up to the 3.5 wiring that sends it up to the tweeter in the A pillar. The 3.5 wiring at the old amp is disabled. It works and is very clean.
 
 




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