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Johnny man

Johnny man

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Nice work, I can certainly tell that many hours spent just on dynomat!! I just did phase one of my stereo upgrade, essentially replacing the shitty B&O sub with a dual-12 setup. Ran the power from the battery back and gain control from the trunk forward. Actually, the gain was a project in itself as I wanted it below the head deck, next to the USB port for easy access. Getting 2 small screws to bite...that was fun. In previous cars, that was all I needed to do for a decent sounding system, add some bass....but not this POS. Anyway, I'm still looking for ways to go about phase 2, which will replace mids/highs. Already have the amp, just need the speakers and converters. Not sure on whether to go DSP or the PAC one you mentioned...
the PAC is really the only option, you can add A DSP later if you need, I found the Morel 3-way componants in the door to be the easiest fit and on your wallet. most bang for the buck. If you want step 2 that is what I would do next is your system.
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Good job... People outside of the car audio community never believe me when i say that almost all factory options regardless who makes them are usually crap compared to a tuned aftermarket system with a DSP. Then they sit in my car and cannot believe the night and day difference.

I guess now you're really happy. :)
you are so right, thx again for the wisdom!
 

NGOT8R

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@joe603, sounds like you already have the Boom, boom, boom, boom…Bang, bang, gang bang! Add in some good mid bass and highs and now you’ll be cooking with Crisco!
 

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Nice work, I can certainly tell that many hours spent just on dynomat!! I just did phase one of my stereo upgrade, essentially replacing the shitty B&O sub with a dual-12 setup. Ran the power from the battery back and gain control from the trunk forward. Actually, the gain was a project in itself as I wanted it below the head deck, next to the USB port for easy access. Getting 2 small screws to bite...that was fun. In previous cars, that was all I needed to do for a decent sounding system, add some bass....but not this POS. Anyway, I'm still looking for ways to go about phase 2, which will replace mids/highs. Already have the amp, just need the speakers and converters. Not sure on whether to go DSP or the PAC one you mentioned...
The PAC Audio Amp Pro is just an interface unit, it doesn’t do any tuning. But, it’s an excellent choice especially if you don’t want to jack up your stock wiring. I paired mine with the APH-FD01 wire harness which gives you 10 feet of bundled wire so you don’t have to run your own and it connects directly into the stock plug leaving the OEM amp.
 

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So with the PAC Audio Amp Pro / APH-FD01 harness is used to bypasses the OEM amp and allows you to connect an external amp to the new speakers? Trying to understand the basic connectivity...from the PAC, you run RCA cables back to the new amp(s) and speaker level outputs from that amp run back to that same harness?
 
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Trying to understand the basic connectivity...from the PAC, you run RCA cables back to the new amp(s) and speaker level inputs from that amp run back to that same harness?
You can also use the optional Toslink adapter for the Amp Pro and a fiberoptic cable to feed a DSP or an amp depending on which DSP or amp you choose. For me, it was easier to run one fiber optic cable from the Amp Pro to my DSP than several pairs of RCA cables, because I was running several other wires from the dash to the trunk for nitrous.

1682619538025.jpeg
 
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So with the PAC Audio Amp Pro / APH-FD01 harness is used to bypasses the OEM amp and allows you to connect an external amp to the new speakers? Trying to understand the basic connectivity...from the PAC, you run RCA cables back to the new amp(s) and speaker level outputs from that amp run back to that same harness?
The FD01 harness connects to the same output plug the OEM amp used to send signal to the speakers. This allows you to use the stock wiring so you’re not running speaker wire everywhere. The only downside is you’ll need to de-pin the two tweeter wires and add your own speaker wire so you maintain proper impedances for your aftermarket amp. It’s pretty easy to run a wire up to each a-pillar.
As stated above you’ll need to decide how you want to get your signal from the PAC Amp Pro to your new amps using toslink or RCA. You can do either but the only downside to toslink is you won’t have fader control since it’s only a single channel stereo signal.
 

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When you replace the a-pillar tweeter, that speaker cable goes to a component set (which has the mid and mid-sub output also), that component input is from the amp speaker out to feed that channel. When using a component set like that, do you just use one of the lines that is used for the door?

or

Do you wire each speaker to the door harness, which goes to the FD01 harness, that is then connected to the component set "in" for the door?
 

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When you replace the a-pillar tweeter, that speaker cable goes to a component set (which has the mid and mid-sub output also), that component input is from the amp speaker out to feed that channel. When using a component set like that, do you just use one of the lines that is used for the door?

or

Do you wire each speaker to the door harness, which goes to the FD01 harness, that is then connected to the component set "in" for the door?

Hertz DSK 165 speaker kit comes with 6.5” mid bass woofers for doors and tweeters that fit in the factory locations, behind the factory grills. To do it right and easiest, get yourself a PAC Audio AmpPro fd-21 amp interface (with a Toslink port and a fiberoptic cable) and an AudioControl 300.4 micro amp. Run new speaker wires, straight from the new tweeters and you’re good to go. I used 2 pin Molex connectors crimped onto the new speaker wires, so that they could be plug and play.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/pics-tips-for-a-pillar-tweeter-install.147070/#post-3008236
 

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When you replace the a-pillar tweeter, that speaker cable goes to a component set (which has the mid and mid-sub output also), that component input is from the amp speaker out to feed that channel. When using a component set like that, do you just use one of the lines that is used for the door?

or

Do you wire each speaker to the door harness, which goes to the FD01 harness, that is then connected to the component set "in" for the door?
The OEM 6.5 and 3.5 are wired separately. So when you tie into the stock wiring using the FD01 harness you can run each channel independently. The only one that has to be wired separately is the tweeter as the stock wiring runs in parallel with the 3.5”. Using the stock wiring would run your new speakers the same and you’d have no control over the tuning of the individual speakers (if using active DSP). If you’re going passive you can mount the crossovers in the location of your OEM amp.
 

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I think I understand...the PAC Amp pro pulls the signal from the head deck, RCAs run to the amps, speaker outputs run to the FD01, which connect to the speakers. The only issue is you need to run the tweeters separately to the component crossover box for the 3 way set.
 

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I think I understand...the PAC Amp pro pulls the signal from the head deck, RCAs run to the amps, speaker outputs run to the FD01, which connect to the speakers. The only issue is you need to run the tweeters separately to the component crossover box for the 3 way set.
Correct, if you’re running passive crossovers you’ll need to cut the corresponding 6.5 and/or 3.5 wires on the FD01 pigtail, wire them through your crossover and then back the pigtail. If you’re only doing a two-way then you can use the wires indicated for the 3.5 as your tweeter leads. If you’re doing a 3 way setup I recommend using the rear speaker leads as your tweeter tie-in and then wire your rear speakers (if you’re using any) directly to the amp. This is what I did.
 

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When you replace the a-pillar tweeter, that speaker cable goes to a component set (which has the mid and mid-sub output also), that component input is from the amp speaker out to feed that channel. When using a component set like that, do you just use one of the lines that is used for the door?

or

Do you wire each speaker to the door harness, which goes to the FD01 harness, that is then connected to the component set "in" for the door?

I added 2 way components and did it this way. I abandoned the wiring for the mids/tweeters at the factory amp location in the kick panel. I tied the amped signal to the front 6.5s in the OEM harness in the kick panel. I then used harness # 72-5601 to tie connect to the mid/tweeter wiring at the 3.5" location. (Crutchfield said this connector won't work but it does.) I connected the spade ends to the crossover out and the crossover in
to the 6.5 in the door. They all play so it worked!

I tucked the Alpine crossover into the pocket between the door and the panel and can be accessed by removing the window switch plate. It is not very large but did have + - db settings so I wanted it to be accessible. It stays dry there as it is inside the heavy liner.
 
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Correct, if you’re running passive crossovers you’ll need to cut the corresponding 6.5 and/or 3.5 wires on the FD01 pigtail, wire them through your crossover and then back the pigtail. If you’re only doing a two-way then you can use the wires indicated for the 3.5 as your tweeter leads. If you’re doing a 3 way setup I recommend using the rear speaker leads as your tweeter tie-in and then wire your rear speakers (if you’re using any) directly to the amp. This is what I did.
For the rear deck, having a 2-way setup with the tweeters mounted in the corner...will that have a harsh sound or will it give the rear more spatial sound? I really don't have people in the back that much, so really not an issue I guess.
 
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For the rear deck, having a 2-way setup with the tweeters mounted in the corner...will that have a harsh sound or will it give the rear more spatial sound? I really don't have people in the back that much, so really not an issue I guess.
for me it really improved the rear sound image. I never have anyone in the back seat. My only complaint is the driver"s head rest actually blocks some of the sound from the left side rear. My daughter commented yesterday about how it really feels like you are inside the music, she is 22 and had never been in a car with good rear sound.
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