2022 Mustang GT with Performance Package - Getting it ready for track events?

[Kennysum1]

You can do what I do and but ET26 Apex's for the front but this makes tire rotations harder.

Looking like maybe the only option right now. I talked to Apex yesterday and they have not been able to get studs in stock for over a year.

Makes it harder but not impossible lol. Just have to take them off the rim.

Some people on this forum had luck getting them from here: https://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/m-1107-c-set.htm
Have you checked with FP itself?
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-1107-C

I have. They are not in stock.

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[NightmareMoon]

Looking like maybe the only option right now. I talked to Apex yesterday and they have not been able to get studs in stock for over a year.

Makes it harder but not impossible lol. Just have to take them off the rim.



I have. They are not in stock.

these are a little longer than the ARP studs but they’re nice kit and the owner is a helpful guy. I run these on my car because I actually needed a bit more stud to run a bit more spacer for 315 square. These go out of stock quickly too but currently at the time of writing they’re IN stock.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p386/14MM_GT4_Mustang_Type_Racing_Wheel_Studs.html#/

 

[shogun32]

Yea the bottom one is pretty much what I am lining up with the exception of some brands and having issues finding anyone with the studs in stock.

I'm pretty sure I have 3 or 4 cards worth. PM if you want.

 

[trackd]

I would only invest in ARP studs, proven durability in extreme conditions.

 

[trackd]

However if you want something better here is what I would probably do:

Track Mustang GT

• MCS TT2 coilovers (450 lbs front, 550 lbs rear)
• Caster/Camber Plates
• Kenny Brown / Fluidyne 3Pass Radiator
• Race Louvers hood vents
• External engine oil cooler (MIshimoto)
• 5W50 Castrol Edge Oil or 0W40 Motul
• Differential cooler
• 75W140 Motul Gear Competition
• 1 piace Aluminium Driveshaft
• McLeod RST Clutch+Lightweight Flywheel
• Apex 19x11 wheels (preferably forged)
• ARP Studs
• OpMustang 25mm spacers
• 305/30/19 Goodyear 3R tires
• 2pc Sloted Rotors (Baer, Steeda)
• Braided steel clutch and brake lines
• Gloc R12/R10 brake pads
• Motul RBF700 / Castrol SRF brake fluid
• Lightwaight Racing seat
• Safecraft 4-point harness
• Ford Performance exhaust with black tips
• Custom 6-point roll cage
• Front PP2 Spliter
• GT350 Swing+Gurney flap
• Track Alignment

Overall the track package will do great and will solve most of the issues you would have down the line with the car. But I would suggest you start with the first build and progress from there. Better spend money on track time than racing parts.

It's been very reliable and solid performance with the bolded items above I'm running. When my Sport Cup 2s are done, I'll be going 3R, those have xlnt grip in the Camaro camp. I have the stock Recaros, not light but plenty bolstering. Also have Borla catback (sound mostly). Diff cooler will be installed next year, still figuring out mount locations.

 

[bnightstar]

It's been very reliable and solid performance with the bolded items above I'm running. When my Sport Cup 2s are done, I'll be going 3R, those have xlnt grip in the Camaro camp. I have the stock Recaros, not light but plenty bolstering. Also have Borla catback (sound mostly). Diff cooler will be installed next year, still figuring out mount locations.

My build is very similar and I'm super happy however I'm chasing now cooling issues (mostly engine) but overall super happy with how my car progressed. Last time out I posted a time 3 seconds faster than a stock car from a Magazine test so I'm super happy with the performance and I'm faster S550 in the track I visit in Greece. So that was why I posted the lists as I'm very happy with it. Euro cars have 3.55 track-loc so I don't have the diff temps issues that the Torsen cars have.

 

[slowdown]

Sounds like you're getting information to digest. Here's just some thoughts:

I run Apex 18x11 on 25mm spacers up front squared on 295s and start at 29psi on hot days and go from there - seems to be the sweet spot so far as I come off a session usually at 32-33. Front -2.4 camber, 6.7 caster, 0.04 toe and Rear -2.0 camber, 0.13 toe in case you need some baseline #s.

The whole coilover debate is a hassle and unless you are getting Penske Racing suspension or a comparable $10K suspension it's all just a bunch of smoke. In the motorsports world "all a $6K set of coilovers are, are pieces of junk that cost $4K more than other pieces of junk that will work just as good" - that's a quote from a crew tech of a Porsche GT Cup team. That being said if I were you the Ford Performance Track Pack seems like a no brainer. If my garbage "ricer" BCs drive on rails those will be more than adequate for track work.

Highly recommend G-Loc race pads (saw the R12s and R10s mentioned - I like R10s)

Look closely at 2 piece Giro Disc rotors - cannot say enough about their performance

I'm running Motul RBF600 Factory Line brake fluid.

I'm running a catch can and would get one.

Feel free to DM if you have any specific questions. I purchased my car already modified and have had to do a lot of tweaking to get her dialed in the last year so have learned the hard way what works and doesn't.

BTW - I've never had any heat issues with my car with stock 2015 radiator.

 

[Kennysum1]

Sounds like you're getting information to digest. Here's just some thoughts:

I run Apex 18x11 on 25mm spacers up front squared on 295s and start at 29psi on hot days and go from there - seems to be the sweet spot so far as I come off a session usually at 32-33. Front -2.4 camber, 6.7 caster, 0.04 toe and Rear -2.0 camber, 0.13 toe in case you need some baseline #s.

The whole coilover debate is a hassle and unless you are getting Penske Racing suspension or a comparable $10K suspension it's all just a bunch of smoke. In the motorsports world "all a $6K set of coilovers are, are pieces of junk that cost $4K more than other pieces of junk that will work just as good" - that's a quote from a crew tech of a Porsche GT Cup team. That being said if I were you the Ford Performance Track Pack seems like a no brainer. If my garbage "ricer" BCs drive on rails those will be more than adequate for track work.

Highly recommend G-Loc race pads (saw the R12s and R10s mentioned - I like R10s)

Look closely at 2 piece Giro Disc rotors - cannot say enough about their performance

I'm running Motul RBF600 Factory Line brake fluid.

I'm running a catch can and would get one.

Feel free to DM if you have any specific questions. I purchased my car already modified and have had to do a lot of tweaking to get her dialed in the last year so have learned the hard way what works and doesn't.

BTW - I've never had any heat issues with my car with stock 2015 radiator.

Thanks for all of the information man. Especially the baseline numbers for toe/camber settings. Will give me a place to start.

Unfortunately Ford does not seem to make a track package for the 2022 yet. It says 18-21 but the Street package says 18-22... I have their technical parts # that I will be calling when they open to see about this but I think the best bang for my buck without going with a 10k+ suspension system is the Ford Perf package. Steeda is about $800 more and tbh I would imagine their performance is similar.

Catch can is already here along with some other just basic bolt on performance mods. Nothing crazy or needing a tune.. yet. Going to work on suspension/wheels first. With standard cooling mods like wrapping the exhaust, changing diff fluid etc. I will see how the Performance Pack radiator holds up before moving on.

 

[shogun32]

Unfortunately Ford does not seem to make a track package for the 2022 yet

there's not even a single bolt's worth of difference in the 15-22 lineup.
/ed yeah yeah...

 

[Kennysum1]

there's not even a single bolt's worth of difference in the 15-22 lineup.
/ed yeah yeah...

Yea as far as I can tell this is the case pretty much lol. Between my 18 and 22 I literally cannot tell the difference so far.

The 18 is a vastly different car though now.

 

[bnightstar]

Highly recommend G-Loc race pads (saw the R12s and R10s mentioned - I like R10s)
BTW - I've never had any heat issues with my car with stock 2015 radiator.

I can tell you that I was happy with the R10s when I was driving crappy china made tires that were overloaded in every braking zone. Now I switched to 305 AR-1's and this are not overloaded in brake zones and since I'm caring more speed at the end of the straights they fill ike not enough brake pad for the tires so R12 is in my feature.
Regarding heat issues you ether didn't drive fast enough or you are driving in Alaska as at anything over 68 degrees F if you are fast the stock radiator won't be enough for a 20 min session.

 

[slowdown]

I can tell you that I was happy with the R10s when I was driving crappy china made tires that were overloaded in every braking zone. Now I switched to 305 AR-1's and this are not overloaded in brake zones and since I'm caring more speed at the end of the straights they fill ike not enough brake pad for the tires so R12 is in my feature.
Regarding heat issues you ether didn't drive fast enough or you are driving in Alaska as at anything over 68 degrees F if you are fast the stock radiator won't be enough for a 20 min session.

Sorry OP - my car has Trackspec full hood louvers (on my mod sheet). I should have clarified. These are proven to reduce engine bay pressure by 60% or more at 120mph. This equates to Increased cooling (less pressure under the hood = more air flowing through the radiator; more air being extracted = more air flowing through the radiator). Last month it was 90 degrees F on the paddock, I ran 5 sessions in the fast group and I have a stock radiator and have zero cooling issues.

And bnightstar - unless you don't have a rotor upgrade listed on your mod list (which I didn't see) going to R12s will shred your rotors. I wouldn't run any higher than R10s on those rotors and that's pushing it and probably where some of your issues are coming from building more heat. Get 2 piece racing rotors.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

And bnightstar - unless you don't have a rotor upgrade listed on your mod list (which I didn't see) going to R12s will shred your rotors. I wouldn't run any higher than R10s on those rotors and that's pushing it and probably where some of your issues are coming from building more heat. Get 2 piece racing rotors.

LOL I daily R18/R12 on the cheapest Centric Blanks I can buy. Just throw another set on every time I burn through pads. I can buy 7-8 sets of blanks for what a two piece set runs!

 

[trackd]

OP, no need to spend $$$ for coilovers, but you do need plenty of front negative camber, I mean up to -3 degrees to neutralize handing depending on course configs. I run these and has been solid so far at Auto Club Speedway (banking), Willow Springs (elevations), other local tracks. Good even wear on my Sport Cup 2s allowing them to be rotated for longer life.

https://groundcontrolstore.com/products/mustang-s550-camber-caster-plates

 

[slowdown]

LOL I daily R18/R12 on the cheapest Centric Blanks I can buy. Just throw another set on every time I burn through pads. I can buy 7-8 sets of blanks for what a two piece set runs!

Why would you want 2 piece racing rotors on a daily driver?

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