2022 Mustang GT with Performance Package - Getting it ready for track events?

[Kennysum1]

OP, no need to spend $$$ for coilovers, but you do need plenty of front negative camber, I mean up to -3 degrees to neutralize handing depending on course configs. I run these and has been solid so far at Auto Club Speedway (banking), Willow Springs (elevations), other local tracks. Good even wear on my Sport Cup 2s allowing them to be rotated for longer life.

https://groundcontrolstore.com/products/mustang-s550-camber-caster-plates

Are you running all of the stock suspension aside from these?

Thanks for the info.

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[trackd]

Are you running all of the stock suspension aside from these?

Thanks for the info.

Yes I'm running stock susp, coils etc. With these plates you have options, notice the dropdowns when ordering?

 

[Kennysum1]

Sorry OP - my car has Trackspec full hood louvers (on my mod sheet). I should have clarified. These are proven to reduce engine bay pressure by 60% or more at 120mph. This equates to Increased cooling (less pressure under the hood = more air flowing through the radiator; more air being extracted = more air flowing through the radiator). Last month it was 90 degrees F on the paddock, I ran 5 sessions in the fast group and I have a stock radiator and have zero cooling issues.

And bnightstar - unless you don't have a rotor upgrade listed on your mod list (which I didn't see) going to R12s will shred your rotors. I wouldn't run any higher than R10s on those rotors and that's pushing it and probably where some of your issues are coming from building more heat. Get 2 piece racing rotors.

I have read every thread on here regarding cooling and the GT. Honestly from the brief time I have spent looking at the way the engine bay is setup it looks to me to be like a damn sealed oven.

I honestly think those hood louvers are doing more for your cooling than many of the cooling mods in that damn 31+ page cooling thread. I do a ton of crypto mining and honestly I do not care how good the radiators are on my GPUs NOTHING works better than extracting the head and venting it elsewhere. Just like your hood vents are doing.

As long as you can keep fresh ambient temperature air flowing in and hot air flowing out then its going to take a HEAVY load off of your cooling system in general. So before I do any cooling mods (outside of doing away with the stock radiator fan. That thing is blocking so much of the back end of the radiator I am not sure what the hell they were thinking when they designed it.) I am going to get a GT 500style hood with the large heat extractor in the middle, or do louvers like yours. Mine currently has those small sad ones on it. Sure they get some out but not nearly enough.

 

[Kennysum1]

Yes I'm running stock susp, coils etc. With these plates you have options, notice the dropdowns when ordering?

Yea I did. Was just confirming.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Why would you want 2 piece racing rotors on a daily driver?

My poverty spec ‘21 Gt is on its 6th set of R18 fronts and it’s 9th set of rear R12 rears. At 9500 on the odo she’s seen a bit of track time as well.

 

[bnightstar]

Sorry OP - my car has Trackspec full hood louvers (on my mod sheet). I should have clarified. These are proven to reduce engine bay pressure by 60% or more at 120mph. This equates to Increased cooling (less pressure under the hood = more air flowing through the radiator; more air being extracted = more air flowing through the radiator). Last month it was 90 degrees F on the paddock, I ran 5 sessions in the fast group and I have a stock radiator and have zero cooling issues.

And bnightstar - unless you don't have a rotor upgrade listed on your mod list (which I didn't see) going to R12s will shred your rotors. I wouldn't run any higher than R10s on those rotors and that's pushing it and probably where some of your issues are coming from building more heat. Get 2 piece racing rotors.

Did you manage to note your CHT temps just for reference. I was at a 78 degrees F day and my CHT was up to 242.6 degrees F. My hood doesn't even have the small openings as the euro spec cars don't have that. Regarding brake pads my OEM disks are currently at 33 mm and 33.5 mm after 1 season on R10's and 2 seasons on OEM brake pads (changed 3 times) Minimum is 31.5 mm so I. can say that R10's are rotor friendly and my track is 2 km long with 4 hard braking zones and very brake intensive without any cooling on the brakes. So I think R12's will be fine with OEM style rotors. 2 piece racing rotors have benefits but I don't want an all out racing car.

 

[Whitemare21]

Sorry, this is a bit off topic but I have to ask, how do you like your Quadrifoglio? I have been eyeing them because I feel like its a hell of a car after depreciation on the used market.

 

[Kennysum1]

Sorry, this is a bit off topic but I have to ask, how do you like your Quadrifoglio? I have been eyeing them because I feel like its a hell of a car after depreciation on the used market.

I fucking love that car. Headers, CAI and a E85 tune from Ideal Race and I am pushing 600 rwhp in a 4 door sedan with a 6 cylinder.

Not to mention the stock exhaust with headers sounds insane.

 

[Whitemare21]

I fucking love that car. Headers, CAI and a E85 tune from Ideal Race and I am pushing 600 rwhp in a 4 door sedan with a 6 cylinder.

Not to mention the stock exhaust with headers sounds insane.

Nice, I love it!

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