OP
OP
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@Goose17
Great video! I love seeing your videos and I would love to follow your footsteps and get a GT500 CFTP but with taxes it has a pricetag of around $370,000 here in Denmark it will probably never happen - I'll experience it through your enthusiasm and love for the car
About the pull strap for your car take a look at this thread. I went with the Hyundai strap and a really snug pushpin from eBay - works like a charm and I love it so I don't have to touch the decklit panel. it is strong enough to just yank it down
I can see that you got the Steeda pop-kit recommended and I don't have experience with it, but have seen some people taling about it pushing the trunk lit out of alignment.
That made me do an other thing.
I bought a set of Compression die mould springs that fitted on the struts on the car. In that way when opening the trunk it pops up an inch or so. Just enough to get your fingers under it without touching paint on the decklit panel or on the bumper.
I hope it helps you in your mod
I got the strap from a friend who said it was from a Subaru and used a tight push pin as Ras did above in his post. The strap is a little long but it works, however I am thinking to change it to a shorter TRS pull strap like the one below. They are available in several colors too, not just black in case you want to go that route.
@Goose17 - That problem defo isn't dedicated to the GT500's ...
I have been lucky on my GT, but a bullitt that viewed at the dealers at the same time had a similar mark to yours but on the left side. I have seen another bullitt since on a local car park and it had the identical mark on the left side again (perhaps ford switches the side that catches when they convert them to RHD ... lol)
In my opinion (and bear in mind I haven't needed to adjust one so its mostly guesswork), I think that adding a little height to the truck lid will give you an equal advantage to pulling it back a little like you had to in your video - coupled with your current position, maybe that will give you a bit more clearance without messing up the rearmost shut line ?
My trunk lid defo sits a bit higher than the bullitts I have seen with the problem, both of those lids were really tucked down (almost looked too low).
Maybe that helps you ?
On another note and to give you yet another option, here are my colour coded trunk pulls :
One on each side mounted in the push pin holes :
M5 rivnuts are a perfect fit for those holes and I used a stainless penny washer on the back of the panel to spread the load :
WD
Appreciate all the good info guys! I definitely need to do a strap. I’ve had quite a few comment on YouTube: why didn’t you PPF the whole car...? The place I used for PPF was the most expensive place I have found. They also do the best work with custom hand-cut work with zero edges shown. I had everything forward of the windshield done as well as the mirrors, A-pillars, roof and wing. The rest just got ceramic. Doing the whole car there would have been a large bill!If you are going to use the rivnut / penny washer, use a M5 x 25 penny washer and drill the hole out to 8mm to suit the rivnut perfectly (rather than using an M8 washer with a poor fit on the rivnut).
Bit tricky getting and holding the washer in place on the back of the rivnut whilst it's set, but a piece of string helps along with a partner with slim hands ... lol
There are a few more photos in my build thread if the above isn't clear
WD
Also of note, any panel gaps that are tight, like the right corner of my trunk lid, will possibly have more problems when PPF is wrapped over that edge. My base car had a fender rubbing on the hood. The PPF shop had to loosen the fender and bias it outward to create enough gap to have the film wrap over the edge of both the hood and the fender.
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