2020 Shelby GT500 CFTP wing-trunk lid corrosion problem fix! (video)

[Goose17]

In this video, I disassemble my 2020 Shelby GT500 CFTP wing and mounts to discover a problem affecting the track pack cars. These cars have an issue where water is being trapped against bare metal. If this isn't corrected, corrosion will result. I show my solution to this looming problem.



Edit:
I ended up with quite a few comments that the rear deck lid was aluminum and would not corrode. Here is a follow-up short video:

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[Tomster]

Im glad you got it done Tim. I had other quality issues going on with my car, so I had my body shop do it. I also found what appeared to be clear coat stuck to the rubber O ring around the CF wing mounts. I guess Penske slapped it together before the clear was cured. I hear they use a UV curing process, well, it obviously didn't do a good job. A few weeks ago, I had to have the wing mounts replaced because the O ring was built into the mount.

I haven't watched the video yet, but I hope you put Xpel down between the mount and the lid.

@Big John was the one who alerted us all to this problem. So based upon this, it is clear to me that this isn't a one off problem, but instead widespread. Most people don't know because they have never removed the wing mounts.

 

[Epiphany]

Ford is absolutely butchering the CFTP wing install. Hard to believe it is done on a separate line and by hand. That makes this even more painful. Ford needs to get their act together and issue a decklid part number for a predrilled decklid. It would fit both the 2015-2020 GT350R as well as the 2020+ GT500.

Interesting that the dogbones and mount hardware for the CFTP is identical to what is supplied for the GT350R.

After looking closely at a few of these mounts that have been removed and photographed now, it is clear that the continuous o-ring under the upright base is undersized. It is destroyed under compression and failing to seal. The base needs more mass, a larger groove, and a larger diameter o-ring, none of which Ford will do. Nor will they start carrying a predrilled decklid specific to the CFTP/GT350R. And that is what is most disappointing about Ford, the lack of motivation to fix what is wrong (unless they have to via government mandate, ala the failing brake pedal pivots, while ignoring the exhaust actuator harness failures, engine coolant hose pinching at the firewall, etc) in an attempt to make a better car.

Seriously Mr Owens, do you have any pull at all or does management not listen to you either?

 

[Tomster]

His was built a little after mine. So no, as far as I know this has not been corrected. The problem, so it seems is that the O ring is adhering to the clear that Penske is putting on. I'll post some photos of mine later on. I have brand new ones now.

 

[Epiphany]

The o-ring is too small in diameter and possibly too light in durometer. When compressed it does not appear to be adequately sealing around the perimeter. The rubber washers around the fasteners, while they may be designed to be sacrificial and one-time use, are also failing to do their job. Ford engineers had to have witnessed this but left it as is. Disappointing.

 

[Tomster]

Its a solid piece of rubber. I don't think compression is the problem. The manner in which the bases are installed are the issue. Again, I'll post some photos in a bit.

 

[Tomster]

I just watched the video. I hope you never have to take those mounts off Tim. If anyone else is going to do this, I have neoprene gasket material that has an adhesive side. I'll post with a photo tonight.

 

[Snoopy49]

I think that Tob is correct, the o-ring diameter is to small. It needs to protrude beyond the surface of mount far enough for proper compression and be made out of a material that would ensure the proper pressure between the lid and the seal to actually provide a water proof seal. The o-ring needs to provide a seal and it is apparent that the original does not.

 

[Epiphany]

Its a solid piece of rubber. I don't think compression is the problem. The manner in which the bases are installed are the issue. Again, I'll post some photos in a bit.

I'm not saying it isn't a "solid" piece of rubber. Compression is necessary and that isn't the issue. The problem is that the clamping force created when tightening down the base is greater than what the o-ring can handle when the goal is to provide adequate fastener stretch to stabilize the upright base while also providing a continuous seal.

The fasteners are somewhat triangulated and spread the clampload fairly evenly. There is an assumption that the installers are following the recommended torque sequence (if provided to them) and torque value. Overtorquing could be causing the o-ring to compress and "take a set" into a shape that does little to prevent water intrusion.

If it were me and I could start off with a new perimeter o-ring, I'd be using a quality caulk/sealant similar to what Goose did, way undertorque the base fasteners on reinstall and let it cure overnight. I'd then torque everything into place a day or two later, taking advantage of the increased material in between the base and the decklid.

 

[Tomster]

I'm not saying it isn't a "solid" piece of rubber. Compression is necessary and that isn't the issue. The problem is that the clamping force created when tightening down the base is greater than what the o-ring can handle when the goal is to provide adequate fastener stretch to stabilize the upright base while also providing a continuous seal.

The fasteners are somewhat triangulated and spread the clampload fairly evenly. There is an assumption that the installers are following the recommended torque sequence (if provided to them) and torque value. Overtorquing could be causing the o-ring to compress and "take a set" into a shape that does little to prevent water intrusion.

If it were me and I could start off with a new perimeter o-ring, I'd be using a quality caulk/sealant similar to what Goose did, way undertorque the base fasteners on reinstall and let it cure overnight. I'd then torque everything into place a day or two later, taking advantage of the increased material in between the base and the decklid.

I will write a post with my perspectives on the matter later tonight.

 

[AngelDeath]

I'm surprised he didnt use an in hole rubber grommet for the 6 holes after painting the holes. I plan to paint the holes and use a rubber grommet, and then use either single or double layer ppf or if something else comes to mind until spring.

 

[Scoobs]

Wow that Penske wing install looks like they farmed it out to some guy in a back alley. Excellent video.

 

[Goose17]

Thanks guys. Good discussion. I think my method will keep water out. If I ever need to remove it, I think the mounts will still come off since the caulk was put against shiny/glossy clear.

 

[gfcobra04]

@Goose17 did you let the silicone dry?

On another note has anyone remove the base wing to see if those holes are raw steel also?

Great job as usual.

 

[Snoopy49]

Wow that Penske wing install looks like they farmed it out to some guy in a back alley. Excellent video.

You can't blame Penske for the drilled holes, they were done at the factory after the car was produced. I don't think that Penske was paid to touch up the paint under the mounting brackets.

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