2020 GT500's Scheduled For Production - Part 1

[Snoopy49]

Ron, did you also have the heater hose problem?

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[RapidResponder]

Not at all. Hose is laying perfectly in the cradle and angles down properly at the firewall. Found no marks on the paddle shifter either. And I had the Oil Mist Separator installed along with the Splitter Wickers, topping it off with an oil change.

All is good in the RapidResponder World!

​

 

[kilobravo]

Ron: Your hub looked about the same as mine, rust-wise. Clearly our girls sat out which kinda pisses me off. Damn glad the tires were OK.

 

[Jmeo]

Ron: Your hub looked about the same as mine, rust-wise. Clearly our girls sat out which kinda pisses me off. Damn glad the tires were OK.

Kent, that may look like that again already. All my past cars had that, this one too. It comes back unless you paint the exposed steel.

 

[kilobravo]

I had a feeling that would be the case, Jaime and living in South Texas, you KNOW rust is just around the bend in this constantly high humididity. :-)

I did hit the area hard with a drill-powered wire brush, Jaime then gave it a coat of primer. But, I haven't had the rears off yet so will have to do those from scratch.

On a totally different subject...

My rock guards didn't wind up being perfectly flush against the splitter and I'm still getting occasional rocks. Obviously, I didn't hold it in place well enough when marking for the top mount.

I'm gonna try a heat gun to see if I can warp them enough to be flush then hit 'em with some ice water. If that doesn't work, I'll have to re-do both top mounts.

It's always somethin' around here.

 

[Jmeo]

I had a feeling that would be the case, Jaime and living in South Texas, you KNOW rust is just around the bend in this constantly high humididity. :-)

I did hit the area hard with a drill-powered wire brush, Jaime then gave it a coat of primer. But, I haven't had the rears off yet so will have to do those from scratch.

On a totally different subject...

My rock guards didn't wind up being perfectly flush against the splitter and I'm still getting occasional rocks. Obviously, I didn't hold it in place well enough when marking for the top mount.

I'm gonna try a heat gun to see if I can warp them enough to be flush then hit 'em with some ice water. If that doesn't work, I'll have to re-do both top mounts.

It's always somethin' around here.

Well would you look at that, the first use of the sparingly few extras you have, lol.

Also, this might explain why you did not have to use the modified clip as a spacer???

 

[Epiphany]

The hubs corrode badly, quickly. On delivery day mine were already on their way. They get really bad on the backside where you can't see. I also hit areas you can see in Ron's photos such as the front suspension rubber bushing shells and the underside of the tie rod and ball joint ends. I use cheap, small brushes from Home Depot in conjunction with POR-15's "MetalPrep."

I then spray WD40 onto a rag and rub it all over the same area.

Ron, looking at that closeup of your oil separator I can see what looks like the same oxidation issue I had on the valve covers, front accessory brackets, etc. You might want to take a close look at it now as it spreads like cancer into areas you can't get at. Aluminum mag wheel polish works well on those areas. I used it on my rotor hats too.

Pretty sad that I had to hand polish portions of my brake rotors on a brand new car.

 

[Snoopy49]

I read somewhere that you needed to apply high temp anti-seize to the hub flange.

This was from the 2014 Mustang Service manual, but I saw a recent document that stated the same thing applied to the 2020 Mustangs. I don't know if they have upgraded the lube for the 2020.

"Apply a thin coat of the specified anti-seize lubricant to the hub flange"

 

[Epiphany]

Yes, lubricatiing the hub is a good idea.

I remember getting a flat years ago on some POS winter beater I was driving. I was north of east bum**** and lucky to have a lug wrench and scissor jack. Problem was, the wheel had corroded around the hub register and fused the two together. I was on my back with the upper half of my body under the car, swinging a mini sledge (I worked in construction and had everything in my trunk) at the inside of the rim trying to drive it outward. I was swinging so hard that my legs would kick up in the air. A trucker pulled over because he saw that and thought I was being crushed by the car. I eventually got it off and once home beat the other three wheels off too in the same fashion.

Never more.

 

[kilobravo]

the first use of the sparingly few extras you have, lol.

Jaime: See, Wally World KNEW I'd need those brackets and Hell, I ALMOST sent the whole shebang to EARL! Fortunately for me, he declined for the moment. :-)

 

[kilobravo]

Never more.

And folks...he means it! <smiling>

 

[RapidResponder]

The hubs corrode badly, quickly. On delivery day mine were already on their way. They get really bad on the backside where you can't see. I also hit areas you can see in Ron's photos such as the front suspension rubber bushing shells and the underside of the tie rod and ball joint ends. I use cheap, small brushes from Home Depot in conjunction with POR-15's "MetalPrep."

I then spray WD40 onto a rag and rub it all over the same area.

Ron, looking at that closeup of your oil separator I can see what looks like the same oxidation issue I had on the valve covers, front accessory brackets, etc. You might want to take a close look at it now as it spreads like cancer into areas you can't get at. Aluminum mag wheel polish works well on those areas. I used it on my rotor hats too.

Pretty sad that I had to hand polish portions of my brake rotors on a brand new car.

Thank you for the tip! Will give me something to do during my home quarantine...

 

[Epiphany]

I'm out here working on mine now as we actually hit a high of 42° and I don't have to wear gloves.

Check your exhaust system too, all the way back to the mufflers. I wrapped a scuff pad around the tube and worked my way from one end to the other. I applied the metal prep on welds such as where the tailpipes enter the mufflers. Neutralizes the reaction going on and either eviscerates the rusty scale or darkens the welds.

 

[kilobravo]

Tob: What's "the metal prep" please? The condition I just dropped in to see what my condition was in and it tells me I need to do this. <smile and hats off to Kenny R.)

 

[Epiphany]

Scuff to remove surface corrosion you can't see along with any "flakes" and then wipe. Apply the metal prep as directed on the container. You are directed to rinse it off after so long but I use a spray bottle and hit it with a light mist and wipe again. After everything has dried/cured I hit with a WD40 swipe. I'll post some shots in the hood vent thread.

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