honeybadger

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Run a Peterson breather can and vent the crankcase to atmosphere. You don’t want that crap going back into the intake. It’s never 100% effective.
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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Anyone familiar with tilton clutches?. I’ve been chatting with Jeff Neal over there about a clutch setup for my car. Carbon discs all the works.

still haven’t heard back from Mantic.
 

2JZFAN

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Anyone familiar with tilton clutches?. I’ve been chatting with Jeff Neal over there about a clutch setup for my car. Carbon discs all the works.

still haven’t heard back from Mantic.
Ran them on two imports in the past, installed a handful for others. You know the name, you know the pedigree.. Quality parts. No personal experience with their domestic products, but can't imagine they'd be far off from their import line.. clutch disc(s), pressure plate, flywheel.. etc. Some of the fastest 2JZ powered vehicles in the world run Tilton.

Street manners were good on my applications, both twin discs. Parts/kits got better over the years, IMO.

RPS is quality clutch, another good option. Neither company has gone out of their way to associate publicly on many builds.. But I know Fatfab sells RPS, I'm sure @john@fatfab could talk more on their line. I've installed RPS in the past as well and they're quality parts too. I like the fact a shop is pushing their stuff, bugs getting worked out.. products being developed etc.. I imagine Fatfab could push the limits of any clutch maker.

All that being said.. Based on where you land turbo wise, I'd bet you could get away with McLeod RXT twin. I've run their stuff on an older Cobra, and not a single complaint.

You can definitely overpay for a high performance clutch assembly, IMO.
 

Stang55

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Nice! Keep it going very nice stuff 👏💯 Rest in peace PS2s LOL
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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Ok. Got the caster camber plates installed on the front. Weight was pretty much the same. Actually the steeda was like 3 oz lighter.

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Also got the steeda adjustable rear camber arm on and the steeda vertical links in the rear. 4oz heavier for the vertical links. Steeda billet Camber arm was 4 oz heavier. So 1 lb increase in weight minus 6 oz in camber plates. So a 10oz increase in total weight with mods.

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Hangman77

Hangman77

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got an alignment scheduled for tomorrow morning so I can get some better traction tomorrow for race day. Back on the track at 5:30 tomorrow.

Also my antigravity battery came in. So ill
Be adding that soon.
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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Ran them on two imports in the past, installed a handful for others. You know the name, you know the pedigree.. Quality parts. No personal experience with their domestic products, but can't imagine they'd be far off from their import line.. clutch disc(s), pressure plate, flywheel.. etc. Some of the fastest 2JZ powered vehicles in the world run Tilton.

Street manners were good on my applications, both twin discs. Parts/kits got better over the years, IMO.

RPS is quality clutch, another good option. Neither company has gone out of their way to associate publicly on many builds.. But I know Fatfab sells RPS, I'm sure @john@fatfab could talk more on their line. I've installed RPS in the past as well and they're quality parts too. I like the fact a shop is pushing their stuff, bugs getting worked out.. products being developed etc.. I imagine Fatfab could push the limits of any clutch maker.

All that being said.. Based on where you land turbo wise, I'd bet you could get away with McLeod RXT twin. I've run their stuff on an older Cobra, and not a single complaint.

You can definitely overpay for a high performance clutch assembly, IMO.
Appreciate the input bud. I kinda like what you say about just running the RXT.

I think for at least the first year or so. If that clutch holds it will be a good investment. We’re talking like $5500 for the tilton, that doesn’t include the flywheel which is still in production and not out yet. So most likely $6500

I can get allot of seat time and tires and beat the heck out of that RXT and see where I wanna go next. Don’t need to overspend if it’s not necessary.

might even try the Mantic triple disk for like $3500

but the break in period sucks for their clutches, it’s 500 miles break in.
 

207TTGT350

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who did your twin setup? Are you road racing the car at all?
Batten motorsports mid mount turbo kit
Custom built comp 6262 turbos
Palm beach dyno tuning
Lund n guage
Boost leash
McCloud rxt1200 clutch
Billet oil pump gears
1000cc injectors
Carbon driveshaft
Upr catch can
Fathouse fab boost leash mount
Irs lockouts
Dyno at 12psi boost was 1008whp
93 octane tune
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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Batten motorsports mid mount turbo kit
Custom built comp 6262 turbos
Palm beach dyno tuning
Lund n guage
Boost leash
McCloud rxt1200 clutch
Billet oil pump gears
1000cc injectors
Carbon driveshaft
Upr catch can
Fathouse fab boost leash mount
Irs lockouts
Dyno at 12psi boost was 1008whp
93 octane tune
wow 1008 on 12 psi with 93octane! Is that pump 93?

that’s crazy how these motors with high compression put out that power.

how’s your setup running? Any hiccups? You road Race it at all?
 

mk1spyder

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Side question why does everyone do carbon driveshafts? Is there something wrong with the stock one? Also the stock clutch will hold a lot more power than it makes stock. It's a damn good OEM clutch as is the transmission and rear diff.
 

mavisky

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Side question why does everyone do carbon driveshafts? Is there something wrong with the stock one? Also the stock clutch will hold a lot more power than it makes stock. It's a damn good OEM clutch as is the transmission and rear diff.
Because its lighter and stronger and if you're spending this kind of money it makes sense to upgrade it. Stock clutch is strong but once you start making 700hp for long you will eventually come across its limits.
 

207TTGT350

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No road courses yet. Mostly street duty, still trying to dial in my tire set up. Yes pump 93 I run it at 10 psi. Only six months of driving here a year. I’ve put about 4,000 miles on the set up and it’s a absolute blast to drive.
 

mk1spyder

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Watching closely because I might end up doing a lot of the same stuff thanks for being the guinea pig with the exact same car hah.
 

CobraCommander

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Side question why does everyone do carbon driveshafts? Is there something wrong with the stock one? Also the stock clutch will hold a lot more power than it makes stock. It's a damn good OEM clutch as is the transmission and rear diff.
A carbon-fiber driveshaft not only reduces the vehicle's sprung weight by being lighter than the stock driveshaft but also reduces rotational mass which reduces how much power is lost by the engine having to turn a much heavier object to get the rear-end to move. It's also much stronger than the stock piece and is a single piece instead of it being a two-piece unit from the factory. Also, if something does end up happening to it, it'll just disintegrate into mostly harmless strands of carbon fiber instead of having a big metal object flopping around underneath your vehicle which could cause all sorts of damage to your vehicle and/or cause you to flip over or any other multitude of bad things that might happen as a result of a driveshaft failure.
 

mk1spyder

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Yeah I mean I get all that. But I'm sure the stock unit is fine for most. Was just curious if there were flaws with the stock unit like the timing chain system. Just pop open the oil cap and look at the difference between the primary chain and the secondary chain hah.
 
 
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