Decible

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I checked them out. Sent sales an email asking some questions. Thanks for the link.
You will want their throw out bearing. It makes the clutch butter and I think the torque rating on that clutch is 1900+ ft lbs. and heat doesn’t affect the clutch.





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pilotgore

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2019 GT350, 2017 Z06, 2016 Explorer Sport, 2016 Volvo S60 R, 2015 Ducati Monster 821, 2010 Cooper S, 1960 F100 (Police Interceptor)
Hello, new to this forum. Joining because I’ve been reading posts from others about different setups and modifications to the Gt350. There have been several really good in depth reads. Anytime I see that type of info, I just dive in and keep reading more and more. I’m posting my build thread to get input from others on areas that can be beneficial to my setup. Hopefully I also show something to others that they can learn from and try as well.

Modding is expensive, we shall never forget this.

So to start 2021 with a bang. I’m going full on into my GT350R. I debated allot of different setups and directions to go with this. And like most any build this extensive, it’s subject to changes along the way and will most certainly take months and months of testing along the way to get the car “dialed” in. I’m still in allot of research phase. I’ve been in the mopar world for the past 3 years and haven’t been back to mustangs for a while. Half mile and 1/4 mile have been fun. But ever since my dad bought me the two day Ford performance driving school, I got the road race bug.

I am going to road race this car. Locally here in Palm beach they have the Palm beach Driving Club. This gets us on the track every week for 4 hours to run as hard as we want. It’s a 2 mile track and there are a bunch of Porches and other exotics to play with. I’m in the process of getting my competition license with SCCA, im in the very beginning stages of that. Will be lots of fun. Don’t know much about the types of classes etc, and also NASA has a cool Florida chapter that I want to check out. The car will have fun on the street as well. Although I already have a Hellcat running 1000 whp on street setup now and a terminator as well. So this GT350R won’t get tons of street mileage.

I want to keep weight as low as possible. So I will be measuring these parts along with the stock components to see where the gains and loss is at. Ultimately I hope to complete this build and at the least I want to remain back at stock weight.

As for power levels, I do not plan on high boosting the car for the track. For track I don’t see the need for more than 650-750 whp. I would like to get it around 650-700 to start and work up from there. The idea is a very solid powerband and turbos that bring the power on smooth. Tuning will be key, and I have a good Tuner who has done some other cars of mine.

So on to the build.

The Engine will be fully built by MPR racing engines in South Florida. Going full tilt. This is a brand new engine being built separately. My stock engine is still in my car. I’ll be driving it and racing it while I’m procuring parts for this build. I’ll keep my stock engine as a backup once I make the swap. Engine will be able to hold 1600-1800 crank HP. RPM good to 8800-9000. Although I don’t plan on setting it that high, maybe 8500.
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Intake Manifold: Stock

Throttle Body: still researching, open to ideas from others.

Power Adder: Hellion Twin Turbo under mount kit. Looking at different turbo options, will be ordering in the next 2-3 weeks. My builder likes the PTE 62mm ball bearing turbos. I want something that can spool quick and work well with the RPM ranges of this car. I’m open to suggestions and am still researching this. Will be calling Hellion as well. This is primarily a road racer.

Clutch: I’m in between the Mcleoud Twin disc or the Mantic Triple disc. Will be calling Mantic to discuss road racing.

Trans: Stock tremec. We will see how it lasts.

Shifter: MGW short throw with stock knob.

Competition Motorsports Roll bar custom powder coated in Guardsman Blue.

Shelby 5 point racing harness

HANS device Ultralight carbon

Stilo ST5 2020 Carbon Helmet with integrated Ear Muffs and Mic. Racing electronics receiver, push to talk, Motorola, and roll bar mounted Antenna.

SRP Racing Pedals ordered

Steeda Sub frame alignment kit ordered
Steeda Vertical links ordered
Steeda Road Race K member (around 25lb savings) ordered
Steeda IRS support brace ordered
Steeda Rear toe links ordered
Steeda Rear adjustable camber arms. ordered
Steeda Jacking rails ordered
Steeda Adjustable Caster Camber Plates ordered
Steeda Intake Heat Shielding ordered

Zl1 Titanium Tow Hook

Exhaust: Borla Atak Catback

Archangel Or Antigravity Lithium battery 15-20 lbs savings still deciding which one

Driveshaft: QA1 Carbon fiber shaft. Ordered

Titanium Brake shields ordered

Cool Tech Brake Completion Kit ordered

Oil Separators driver and passenger

Head Cooling mod ordered

Auto Blip: not sure on this yet. I enjoy heel toe but if this can save seconds I might do it.

I’ll play with losing weight as the build progresses.

Possibly add carbon fiber hood and deck lid. Should be 20-30 lbs there.

Check on the front and rear bumper supports and see what they look like when the car is apart. Maybe 10-20 lbs?

Carbon ceramic rotors will get added once the stock rotors are toast. They are worth around 40 lbs.

Fuel system: Undecided

Radiator: C&R racing

Caliperfection Studs: ordered

Titanium Lugs: researching

Verus Engineering rear diffuser: ordered

I will add more or remove things as this build progresses. Estimated timeframe to completion is 3-5 months. The engine is ordered. And all the steeda stuff is ordered and few other items.

THE DAY I PICKED IT IP.
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CERAMIC COATED AND WEARING STREET SHOES

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My biggest concern with a setup like this is heat soak while on track effecting performance. I talked to the guys at fathouse when I bought my car to see what they thought. They said a track oriented twin turbo gt350 is certainly possible, but it would require a significant amount of cooling modifications to not see any timing pulled while on track. In the end, I already have supercharged and turbo’d track cars, so I decided to leave my 350 NA.

Sounds like you have the resolve to see this thing through to the end!! I’m looking forward to seeing the final product!

Final note. Remember that the best performance upgrade for any road racing car is to upgrade the nut behind the wheel.
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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So I took the roll bar all the way out of the packaging. And now that I see it by the Car. I think it looks pretty good.

originally when I took a peek in the box I was worried it was to light colored.
Now I’m turning around a little.

what do you guys think?

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Sagittaria

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What’s the best lithium battery for this car. I want it lightest possible but not to the point where it has to be tendered every night? I still street this thing some.
I've been running the ATX-20HD for coming up on 2 years. 5lbs. Fair weather daily driver. No issues whatsoever. Have let it sit for up to 2 weeks with about ~83% charge left according to data logs.

This particular model does not have the restart tech that the Ford Battery Management System may possibly have issues with. Although some folks run them without issue.

There's real mounts available now as well.
IMG_20190827_193708 (Medium).jpg


I use it with this charger during the winter.
https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-Lithium-TM-471-Battery-Charger-Tester-maintainer/dp/B00Y38X7WI
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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I've been running the ATX-20HD for coming up on 2 years. 5lbs. Fair weather daily driver. No issues whatsoever. Have let it sit for up to 2 weeks with about ~83% charge left according to data logs.

This particular model does not have the restart tech that the Ford Battery Management System may possibly have issues with. Although some folks run them without issue.

There's real mounts available now as well.
IMG_20190827_193708 (Medium).jpg


I use it with this charger during the winter.
https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-Lithium-TM-471-Battery-Charger-Tester-maintainer/dp/B00Y38X7WI
awesome thanks. Had a hard time finding which one. Thats what I needed. Thanks.

ordered it with charger. And the terminals
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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MGW Shifter Installed

the total weight of the MGW was just over 8lbs with everything

the stock shifter weighed just under 4 lbs with everything.

so figure a total of 4 lbs of added weight
feedback.

the install was straightforward. But holy crap. Removing that shifter knob was nuts. That thing murdered my forearms. And then the strap wrench came out, it took some work and got some rub marks on the leather. But after that it was pretty easy going.

Once I got to driving it, wow! What a difference. The shifts happen so much quicker and with much better authority.

no more lift the sleeve for reverse. You press down to slide into reverse now. The shifter does take more effort to move left and right. But during the shifts it’s immediate and quick. There’s no wondering where it’s going. It goes straight to the next gear. The speed in which I can shift is allot faster. Overall a very worthy upgrade.

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Hangman77

Hangman77

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Cool tech brake duct completion kit done. As easy as can be to install. Since your tapping aluminum, the 3 holes on each side were easy to do.

also did the Caliperfexion studs. Also easy to get done. Very straight forward.

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mk1spyder

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Wow you are spending an amazing amount of money on this car, did you buy a bunch of TSLA options early on or something lol? Good luck with the build excited to see how it turns out and I would recommend giving ALDO Welds a look on the TT kit with some air cooled turbos so you dont have to worry about oil routing etc.... Also you can get an entire Super Cobra Jet longblock ready for boost for like $26k just an idea.
 
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Hangman77

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Wow you are spending an amazing amount of money on this car, did you buy a bunch of TSLA options early on or something lol? Good luck with the build excited to see how it turns out and I would recommend giving ALDO Welds a look on the TT kit with some air cooled turbos so you dont have to worry about oil routing etc.... Also you can get an entire Super Cobra Jet longblock ready for boost for like $26k just an idea.
its just money. Gotta spend it on something. Go make more.

we already got the engine we want. This thing is going way better than a factory CJ Longblock.
 
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Hangman77

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Drill holes for the roll bar. Wow that steel is crazy hard. Even with a carbide bit it’s taking forever. About 15-20 min per hole.

Had 2 holes left and I snapped my carbide bit. Now I gotta find another one.
Should have this done today.

Will be at the race track with the car for the first time today. Looking forward to it!

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mk1spyder

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When I raced they required the seats to be tied in to the roll cage door crash bars etc... I assume this is a bolt in cage not a weld in cage, interested to see how it looks.
 

Jasonsynaptic

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MGW Shifter Installed

the total weight of the MGW was just over 8lbs with everything

the stock shifter weighed just under 4 lbs with everything.

so figure a total of 4 lbs of added weight
feedback.

the install was straightforward. But holy crap. Removing that shifter knob was nuts. That thing murdered my forearms. And then the strap wrench came out, it took some work and got some rub marks on the leather. But after that it was pretty easy going.

Once I got to driving it, wow! What a difference. The shifts happen so much quicker and with much better authority.

no more lift the sleeve for reverse. You press down to slide into reverse now. The shifter does take more effort to move left and right. But during the shifts it’s immediate and quick. There’s no wondering where it’s going. It goes straight to the next gear. The speed in which I can shift is allot faster. Overall a very worthy upgrade.

818A307C-26C2-405D-B5A1-8A63CF1BF89E.jpeg
7B3578EE-B494-418D-B26A-E99619371542.jpeg
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I'm trying to get my HEP OEM shift knob off too (got a sweet Billetworkz knob) and even got a strap wrench after not being able to do it by hand and the damn strap wrench is slipping! gah. It doesn't help that it's cold here I guess and I don't have a hair dryer haha.
 
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Hangman77

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I'm trying to get my HEP OEM shift knob off too (got a sweet Billetworkz knob) and even got a strap wrench after not being able to do it by hand and the damn strap wrench is slipping! gah. It doesn't help that it's cold here I guess and I don't have a hair dryer haha.
it was literally scary tight. I thought I was gonna have to totally destroy the thing.

I finally was able to get a really good bite on the strap wrench and get some more turns on it. it took forever for it to just turn 180 degrees.

it helped to tighten and loosen and tighten and loosen repeatedly. I kept getting like a 1/16” at a time. And after like 30-45 minutes dying in my seat, and a few choice cuss words, I finally got this thing loose.

I got a billetworks knob coming in also, but I still didn’t want to destroy the knob. Managed to rub it down in a couple spots but not terrible.

good luck
 

Jasonsynaptic

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it was literally scary tight. I thought I was gonna have to totally destroy the thing.

I finally was able to get a really good bite on the strap wrench and get some more turns on it. it took forever for it to just turn 180 degrees.

it helped to tighten and loosen and tighten and loosen repeatedly. I kept getting like a 1/16” at a time. And after like 30-45 minutes dying in my seat, and a few choice cuss words, I finally got this thing loose.

I got a billetworks knob coming in also, but I still didn’t want to destroy the knob. Managed to rub it down in a couple spots but not terrible.

good luck
UGH. I gave up for now, might try and wrap some tape around it to get more grip.
 

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