2020 GT350R Heritage Build Thread (Heavy Build)

[john@fatfab]

That's about as nice as you can do it using the QL-50 kit and the stud that it comes with it. Hopefully no frying pans were harmed in the making of this. You have to spend a lot of time dialing in the adjustment to get it where the latch closes and releases nice. That's what cool about the factory GT500 one and our version is that the ball can pivot slightly. That makes all the difference on the button latching and releasing nicely.

 

[Hangman77]

Porn….

 

[Hangman77]

When we were staring at her ass, we collectively decided to leave the deck lid all carbon no paint. just the gloss look. car should be ready friday for pickup.

the part that sucks is i have to wait 3 weeks before i can race it so the paint cures good. I want to ceramic coat the hood and decklid. and add some PPF to the front for protecting the road rash.

 

[Hangman77]

Thanks @Trevor@FatFab for working out a nice deal on the carbon wheel setup. Can’t wait to get them and officially have a backup set ready to go for the track.

 

[09cs]

When we were staring at her ass, we collectively decided to leave the deck lid all carbon no paint. just the gloss look. car should be ready friday for pickup.

the part that sucks is i have to wait 3 weeks before i can race it so the paint cures good. I want to ceramic coat the hood and decklid. and add some PPF to the front for protecting the road rash.

Definitely PPF the front end, mirrors, and in front of the rear wheels

 

[Hangman77]

It’s baaaaaack!

had my dad drive it home so I could get some shots.

my goodness it looks good everyone. It’s stunning.

 

[Hangman77]

I’m set to go to the track for the first time in while! Can’t wait. I will be at PBIR tomorrow to get back in the seat and learn how to drive again.

then a quick appointment to get the front section and quarter panels PPF and then ceramic coat the hood and decklid.

I’ll be at the track again next Wednesday.

Then after I have a baseline dyno test set for November 19th Friday. I’ll also be getting HP tuners setup so I can get some baseline datalogs as well. I want to monitor temperatures and see shift points etc.

then back to the track 21st and 24th for more fun and logs. During that time I’m going to install the C&R radiator so I can monitor the logs and see the temperature differences. I want to see if it’s effective at all and if so, how much.

After that. I get to race Daytona for 3 days December 8/9/10 Which is a bucket list item for me. Heard so many good things.

After all that, we have an Appointment to drop the race engine into the car for December 13.

we will be installing the engine, k member, longtubes, CAI and the other supporting stuff. Then break it in, work on the tuning. Probably run into a couple of hiccups and get it sorted, and back solid for early to mid January racing.

that’s the plan.

 

[Hangman77]

Wheels look great. We now have a backup set!

@Trevor@FatFab thanks

 

[Trevor@FatFab]

 

[Hangman77]

Anybody run into P0013? Cam sensor.

pulled code. Here’s what it said.

B Camshaft position - Actuator Circuit / Open Bank one



anyways, what was happening, I was making some laps, I got some good laps in making good time, my average MPH on the straight is 145-147. After the code kicked on, my top speed dropped to 134-136. The car was noticeably weaker and just didn’t have the acceleration and top end power as usual. My lap times dropped a solid 2-3 seconds.

I’m assuming this is a cam sensor? One of the four on the valve covers?

I recently had the car at the dealer getting some basic stuff done, they changed out the alternator, flushed the trans, replaced the fender clips and a couple other things.

anyways, I did a wiring harness check and we noticed this on one of the cam sensors.

sooooo….we just taped up the wires to protect them. Cleared the code and ran again today. I managed two clean laps at 145 mph with a good lap time and after that dropped back down again to the slower speeds and check engine light in, same code.

so now I’m stuck figuring this out.

I already bought a replacement sensor.

so im Planning on swapping the one out with the exposed wires.

many thoughts guys

 

[honeybadger]

Anybody run into P0013? Cam sensor.

pulled code. Here’s what it said.

B Camshaft position - Actuator Circuit / Open Bank one



anyways, what was happening, I was making some laps, I got some good laps in making good time, my average MPH on the straight is 145-147. After the code kicked on, my top speed dropped to 134-136. The car was noticeably weaker and just didn’t have the acceleration and top end power as usual. My lap times dropped a solid 2-3 seconds.

I’m assuming this is a cam sensor? One of the four on the valve covers?

I recently had the car at the dealer getting some basic stuff done, they changed out the alternator, flushed the trans, replaced the fender clips and a couple other things.

anyways, I did a wiring harness check and we noticed this on one of the cam sensors.

sooooo….we just taped up the wires to protect them. Cleared the code and ran again today. I managed two clean laps at 145 mph with a good lap time and after that dropped back down again to the slower speeds and check engine light in, same code.

so now I’m stuck figuring this out.

I already bought a replacement sensor.

so im Planning on swapping the one out with the exposed wires.

many thoughts guys

I’ve been through 3 harnesses for this code or it’s brethren (other cam sensors). Sometimes the wires broke, sometimes they shorted and others the pins failed. It’s part of the reason I did a VCT delete. Was so damn frustrated.

anyways - I recommend track rats carry a spare harness and/or connector with them to the track. It’s only a matter of time. I’ve diagnosed no less than 4 at the track and tons more through DMs.

 

[Hangman77]

I’ve been through 3 harnesses for this code or it’s brethren (other cam sensors). Sometimes the wires broke, sometimes they shorted and others the pins failed. It’s part of the reason I did a VCT delete. Was so damn frustrated.

anyways - I recommend track rats carry a spare harness and/or connector with them to the track. It’s only a matter of time. I’ve diagnosed no less than 4 at the track and tons more through DMs.

Thanks for chiming in.

where do you get your harnesses at?

is it a complete wiring harness or just q section?

what’d the part number?

 

[Tractor Junk]

Honey Badger diagnosed the same problem (and fix) on my car. The wiring harness is a cheap spare to keep when you order it online.

Ford also has a catalog somewhere of individual connector ends. You can make short “jumpers” as spares that are ready to go, rather than replace the whole harness.

 

[Angrey]

Honey Badger diagnosed the same problem (and fix) on my car. The wiring harness is a cheap spare to keep when you order it online.

Ford also has a catalog somewhere of individual connector ends. You can make short “jumpers” as spares that are ready to go, rather than replace the whole harness.

Does anyone have the particular connector type/number to pre-order and keep them around? Or a good photo I can send to connector experts. (I can take a photo when I get a chance tonight or this weekend. I just went through a similar exercise trying to create a jumper for the old vs new oil pressure sending unit).

 

[honeybadger]

Thanks for chiming in.

where do you get your harnesses at?

is it a complete wiring harness or just q section?

what’d the part number?

Replacement Plug is: WPT-1506

Harness can be found here: https://parts.autonationfordwhitebe...yMDE3JnQ9c2hlbGJ5LWd0MzUwJmU9NS0ybC12OC1nYXM=

I buy mine from WBLAN. I keep an extra one with me now (it's actually one of my repaired ones).

My rec would be to buy a replacement harness and install that on the new engine and then repair the old one and keep it as a spare.