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Hangman77

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Great build thread, nice updates and pics detailing your adventure - thanks for sharing with us!

Just curious with all of the changes you’re making, do you happen to have an idea of your current net weight savings and/or projected total vehicle weight w/driver?
yes I actually have had the car weighed recently.

with a full tank of gas my car weighed approximately 3920lbs. This was at a certified scale at my local scrap yard. I also had the stock gt350 steel wheels on, NOT my carbon wheels.

my goal is a curb weight of 3500lbs. Or a race ready with fuel of 3628lbs.

16 gallons of fuel is 128lbs

51 lb difference from steel wheels to carbon fiber wheels

if you back those 2 weights off.

That’s 3741 current curb weight.

I have to lose 241 more lbs in the car. I’ve done the math. And with all my planned weight mods. Im going to be around 70lbs short.

carbon seats. I have those installed now.
Just need to get my scale and weigh them. I’m assuming 30 lbs

Carbon body panels. Waiting to receive to get weights. I’m assuming 30lb savings.

Lightweight battery 15lbs,

lightweight k member 25lbs

polycarbonate front and rear windshield 27 lbs

carbon ceramic rotors around 43lbs (this will be last purchase I make)

that’s around 170lbs knocked off. Minus 3741

that’s a new curb weight of 3571 lbs. that’s getting me close to my goal.
 
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Hangman77

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Those are getting close. You can run them a bit longer, but I’d have an extra set. 1-2 more days is probably okay. Change after that.

I use the gyro disc rotors and like them. Better cooling and less cracking
thanks for the heads up. I’ve been checking out the girodisc, from what I’ve been reading they have good reviews for the mustang crowd.
 
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Seats are installed. They were kind of a pain in the ass to get aligned they way I want.

I will say I’m happy with the comfort of them. It is a serious racing seat, but it can serve the dual purpose for street use as well. I’ve already done some street work and they are great. A little harder to get in and out of them. And having a slider for the driver side is a must for easy in and out. I didn’t install the slider on the passenger for weight savings.

overall I like them. And I really really like the bolstering on the shoulder area, I didn’t realize how amazing it was until you take a hard turn. You whole upper body weight is held in by that bolster and when making for example, a hard left, your right shoulder grabs into that bolster and it takes all the weight off when handling the steering wheel. So your not pushing with your back and shoulder to drive the wheel left and turn the car. It makes it so much easier to turn. Your body is locked into place and your simply just using from your elbows to hands to steer the car. Very smooth and I like it allot.

Still have to add the submarine bolt and belt, and now I have to get them weighed.

62E66FE3-8816-475F-9CB1-CA386A2324C8.jpeg
9430F042-A5D2-4AAF-9786-1F9F359D1CF8.jpeg
C869B2C4-2786-4C83-9D2B-1942914741BD.jpeg
D8524653-9F60-47B6-A933-9795F66BF94D.jpeg
E2DEDDB8-C721-44FD-A50D-7801B1EDC122.jpeg
BEC8D405-0114-4B96-B689-630334323858.jpeg
6CCA1B4E-2F4C-4DCC-B3D9-2CA3B686BFEA.jpeg
 
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Also those seats still allow for the standard seat belt to work. So your not running harnesses on the street all the time.
 

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yes I actually have had the car weighed recently.

with a full tank of gas my car weighed approximately 3920lbs. This was at a certified scale at my local scrap yard. I also had the stock gt350 steel wheels on, NOT my carbon wheels.

my goal is a curb weight of 3500lbs. Or a race ready with fuel of 3628lbs.

16 gallons of fuel is 128lbs

51 lb difference from steel wheels to carbon fiber wheels

if you back those 2 weights off.

That’s 3741 current curb weight.

I have to lose 241 more lbs in the car. I’ve done the math. And with all my planned weight mods. Im going to be around 70lbs short.

carbon seats. I have those installed now.
Just need to get my scale and weigh them. I’m assuming 30 lbs

Carbon body panels. Waiting to receive to get weights. I’m assuming 30lb savings.

Lightweight battery 15lbs,

lightweight k member 25lbs

polycarbonate front and rear windshield 27 lbs

carbon ceramic rotors around 43lbs (this will be last purchase I make)

that’s around 170lbs knocked off. Minus 3741

that’s a new curb weight of 3571 lbs. that’s getting me close to my goal.
What a terrific build and have followed most of your progress over the last many months but disappointed in the overall weight of your car.

After taking delivery of my 2018 Base R with 3/4 tank of fuel it weighed in at 3,610# which is more than 125 pounds less than your race car but do appreicate all of the modifications that you have made.

DSC04903.jpg


3BD37CAF-0A09-4AFC-9157-22B7479C91FC.jpeg
 
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What a terrific build and have followed most of your progress over the last many months but disappointed in the overall weight of your car.

After taking delivery of my 2018 Base R with 3/4 tank of fuel it weighed in at 3,610# which is more than 125 pounds less than your race car but do appreicate all of the modifications that you have made.

DSC04903.jpg


3BD37CAF-0A09-4AFC-9157-22B7479C91FC.jpeg
That’s a pretty light car. I see based off your picture you have no stereo, What’s the curb weight of your car? usually the curb weight of the base package is 3662 straight from Ford on the base packag, and these weights are usually pretty accurate, my only experience is from me weighing my trucks that Ive purchased for hauling over the years. It’s kinda weird that your car weighs significantly less than the factory curb weight with 3/4 fuel, it’s actually around 100lbs lighter than the advertised curb weight. But hey if it’s that light that’s pretty cool. That a beautiful car by the way.

Unfortunately weight is weight. I was a little
Surprised when I stepped it on the scale. I was hoping around 50-80lbs less than what it weighed. But is what it is. I wouldn’t call my car a race car yet! It’s still stock everything except a drive shaft, some catback exhaust and steeda suspension. The rest of the stuff isn’t even installed in the car.

Once I actually did the math backing off what was on my car, the wheels, the roll bar and a full 16 gallons of fuel. My car is tracking accurately based off the curb weight from Ford. I didn’t think it would Be much lower, but I hoped!
 
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Seats are installed. They were kind of a pain in the ass to get aligned they way I want.

I will say I’m happy with the comfort of them. It is a serious racing seat, but it can serve the dual purpose for street use as well. I’ve already done some street work and they are great. A little harder to get in and out of them. And having a slider for the driver side is a must for easy in and out. I didn’t install the slider on the passenger for weight savings.

overall I like them. And I really really like the bolstering on the shoulder area, I didn’t realize how amazing it was until you take a hard turn. You whole upper body weight is held in by that bolster and when making for example, a hard left, your right shoulder grabs into that bolster and it takes all the weight off when handling the steering wheel. So your not pushing with your back and shoulder to drive the wheel left and turn the car. It makes it so much easier to turn. Your body is locked into place and your simply just using from your elbows to hands to steer the car. Very smooth and I like it allot.

Still have to add the submarine bolt and belt, and now I have to get them weighed.

62E66FE3-8816-475F-9CB1-CA386A2324C8.jpeg
9430F042-A5D2-4AAF-9786-1F9F359D1CF8.jpeg
C869B2C4-2786-4C83-9D2B-1942914741BD.jpeg
D8524653-9F60-47B6-A933-9795F66BF94D.jpeg
E2DEDDB8-C721-44FD-A50D-7801B1EDC122.jpeg
BEC8D405-0114-4B96-B689-630334323858.jpeg
6CCA1B4E-2F4C-4DCC-B3D9-2CA3B686BFEA.jpeg
Can I assume you now have an airbag light because of the seat, or have you taken care of that? If you have, I’d be interested in hearing what you did.

I saw a thread somewhere at one point discussing adding a resistor to the harness so the airbag light wouldn’t illuminate but I haven’t tackled that myself yet.
 
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Can I assume you now have an airbag light because of the seat, or have you taken care of that? If you have, I’d be interested in hearing what you did.

I saw a thread somewhere at one point discussing adding a resistor to the harness so the airbag light wouldn’t illuminate but I haven’t tackled that myself yet.
Yes I used the 2.2 ohm resistor to remove the air bag light.

Watched a couple of videos on YouTube and figured it out.

Once you get the harness out of the seats and look at everything, it became pretty easy.
 
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Thought I would post up a new personal best at Palm Beach International Raceway.

Put up a 1:26.87

Starting to get this car dialed in. It feels great. I might need to make some slight adjustment to my rear sway bar, the car is a little too tight in the rear. When I’m rotating for the corner exit the car tends to stick too hard and slide out and wiggle just ever so slightly when I’m pushing the car very hard. I’m still getting great times and the car feels fast, but i think a little tweak in the rear will help the car stay planted better. My goal now for this track is 1:25.xx I don’t think the car is capable of going any faster in stock form.

62D8407A-BF8A-4A0A-B715-193D2B8915AA.png
 
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Finally weighed the seats.

Stock driver seat was exactly 48 lbs. And the passenger was 45 lbs. these numbers were already known from others, but i still weighed them anyway to confirm. This is a total of 93lbs.

The sparco QRT-C with the floor mount and slider for driver side was approximately 29lbs and the passenger seat without the slider was approximately 25lbs.

For a total of 54lbs with the new seats.


That is a weight loss of 39lbs with the new seats now.

Just keeping everything updated.
 
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Can I assume you now have an airbag light because of the seat, or have you taken care of that? If you have, I’d be interested in hearing what you did.

I saw a thread somewhere at one point discussing adding a resistor to the harness so the airbag light wouldn’t illuminate but I haven’t tackled that myself yet.

I took some pictures for you to show how we deleted the airbag sensor.

You don’t have to cut the wires at all Like in allot of videos I have seen.

You can just put the resistor right into the two pins and just cut a small gauge wire and shove it into the other two pins also.

Basically the 2.2ohm 1 watt resistor goes between the yellow and purple wire. And the two green wires you just loop together with a piece of wire cut on each end.

The only thing I have to figure out is the air bag bladder on the passenger side. I don’t want to remove it from my recaros in case I sell them or just keep them for later on, and I don’t want to cut the bladder either.

So I’m messing with it to trick the bladder but there is 6 wires. And I’m just gonna order another bladder and just connect it and put under the seat.

Unless anyone knows a better way to deal with the bladder??

38C6EC02-8B87-412E-A32C-F2072ACDC08A.jpeg
BCB42B8D-1700-4364-98A4-69F3AB28B35B.jpeg
EB1C88B1-D51C-4B7A-BCB0-4B499283398F.jpeg
3072F293-6348-4C66-B7A5-49C8E00CD7D1.jpeg
 

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I took some pictures for you to show how we deleted the airbag sensor.

You don’t have to cut the wires at all Like in allot of videos I have seen.

You can just put the resistor right into the two pins and just cut a small gauge wire and shove it into the other two pins also.

Basically the 2.2ohm 1 watt resistor goes between the yellow and purple wire. And the two green wires you just loop together with a piece of wire cut on each end.

The only thing I have to figure out is the air bag bladder on the passenger side. I don’t want to remove it from my recaros in case I sell them or just keep them for later on, and I don’t want to cut the bladder either.

So I’m messing with it to trick the bladder but there is 6 wires. And I’m just gonna order another bladder and just connect it and put under the seat.

Unless anyone knows a better way to deal with the bladder??

38C6EC02-8B87-412E-A32C-F2072ACDC08A.jpeg
BCB42B8D-1700-4364-98A4-69F3AB28B35B.jpeg
EB1C88B1-D51C-4B7A-BCB0-4B499283398F.jpeg
3072F293-6348-4C66-B7A5-49C8E00CD7D1.jpeg
Thanks. I tackled this job a few days ago, but unfortunately the airbag light persists. It’s probably because I’m using 2015 recaros in a 2019 car and the pins don’t align...

Since I’ll be switching between the stock seats and recaros often, I’ll likely buy an entire harness/bladder out of a wrecked ‘19-‘20 and transplant that to my recaros.
 

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That’s a pretty light car. I see based off your picture you have no stereo, What’s the curb weight of your car? usually the curb weight of the base package is 3662 straight from Ford on the base packag, and these weights are usually pretty accurate, my only experience is from me weighing my trucks that Ive purchased for hauling over the years. It’s kinda weird that your car weighs significantly less than the factory curb weight with 3/4 fuel, it’s actually around 100lbs lighter than the advertised curb weight. But hey if it’s that light that’s pretty cool. That a beautiful car by the way.

Unfortunately weight is weight. I was a little
Surprised when I stepped it on the scale. I was hoping around 50-80lbs less than what it weighed. But is what it is. I wouldn’t call my car a race car yet! It’s still stock everything except a drive shaft, some catback exhaust and steeda suspension. The rest of the stuff isn’t even installed in the car.

Once I actually did the math backing off what was on my car, the wheels, the roll bar and a full 16 gallons of fuel. My car is tracking accurately based off the curb weight from Ford. I didn’t think it would Be much lower, but I hoped!
I stand corrected on the weight of my 2018 Base R as I went by memory which is not something good to do at my age (70) :facepalm:

At the end of the day I was not off by all that much as it came in at 3,620# and not 3,610# as I originally stated.

Because I have never been able to determine Ford's curb weight for a Base R I decided to stop at a Cat (Certified Automated Truck) Scale located on I-10 in Chandler, AZ. on my way home from the dealership.

Just to make sure that I had an accurate weight the first time around I decided to weigh my car a second time and drove on the platform scale in oppposite direction from the first weigh with both scale tickets coming in exactly as 3,620#.

Obviously the steer and drive axle weights were totally different for each weigh but the gross weight of 3,620# was exactly the same.

Not sure if you are aware of the many delete items on these Base R's and if not the weight savings comes from delete items such as no AC, radio, speakers, floor mats, navigation, carpet moisture barrier/sound deadener, trunk mat, trunk tray, tire inflator kit, GPS globe, USB ports, Sync, oil temperature and pressure gauges, backup camera and may have missed one or two other items.

In any event that is the weight of my car if you have some Ford documentation listing the curb weight of a Base R please forward it to me.

Keep up the terrific work and pictures of the continued progress on your 2020 HEP R model!!
 
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Base curb weight of the 2018 gt350r states 3662lbs.

This confirms what I’ve always understood between the base stripped model cars and the fully equipped models with AC, stereo, I’ve always understood there to be a 80lb difference between the models like this.

https://www.caranddriver.com/ford/m...y-gt350-gt350r_ford-mustang-shelby-gt350_2018

At 3620 that is one light car. That’s really cool.

I’m holding on to all the interior creature comforts so far in this build. Once I take every bit of weight I can around the car. I will see how the build progresses this year. If I feel the need to fully gut this thing and go complete race car. Then out goes the rest of the equipment for full weight savings.

I think I will land ultimately around your weight before I add ceramic brakes and rotors.

If I want to hit my goal of curb weight of 3500 I’m probably gonna have to gut it. But we will see
 

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Personally, I’d skip the CCBs and out on the brembos from the GT4 mustang - very similar weights and much better performance and pad selection.
 
 
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