2018 Royal Crimson GT P1X Procharged Drag Project

Discussion in 'Members Mustang Journals / Projects' started by turnswrench, May 8, 2018.

  1. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    I see good things coming from the BL Fabs single turbo setup.

    What is your opinion? Stay procharged or make the change to a big single? Interested in hearing your thoughts, there's no wrong answer.
     
  2. 18 Smoke

    18 Smoke Well-Known Member

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    Obviously you can make huge power with the turbo, but how fast do you want to go? A head unit upgrade can push you into the 8’s. I plan to crack the 8 second mark with my Whipple next year. If you weren’t already procharged, it might be different. A lot of work and cash for maybe not much gain. JMO
     
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  3. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    Link to kit? Generally speaking a single making the hp u want will yield a poor driving experience outside of WOT. With the wide operating range of a coyote, you will be sizing the turbo to make 950whp at 8k RPM I assume? Most likely a billet wheel S475 or something comparable. It may be possible to make that power with a PT7675 cea, but you will most likely struggle with pressure ratio issues. Twins is ideal. Or F1a-94 LOL.
     
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  4. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    https://blfabrications.com/
     
  5. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    Love the thoughts and agree with you. I'm trying to think long term and getting myself in a direction. Like, if I'm going to go turbo, let's rip the bandaid now mentality.
     
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  6. Notagain

    Notagain Well-Known Member

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    F1X and send it!!

    Palm Beach Dyno put a F1X deeeeeep into the 9s like 9.2 IIRC.

    And that was a full weight car. I bet your cars quite a bit lighter.

    Focus on suspension and weight and stretch out what you have or change headunit would be better money spent IMO.

    Id put a converter and a bigger headunit of you really insist before tearing it all apart and changing the power adder.

    Just my 2 cents.
     
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  7. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    Things I'll be working toward putting up for sale - the things that never sell :crackup:. All parts from a 2018 low mile gen 3 coyote:
    • Engine cover
    • Port injectors
    • Fuel rail assembly
    • Fuel pump and assembly
    • Front sway bar with end links
    • Rear sway bar with end links
    • Coolant reservoir
    • Thermostat housing with low mile thermostat
    • Front coil springs
    • Rear coil springs
    • Rear shocks
    • Rear brake dust shields
    • Rear calipers, loaded
    • Rear rotors
    • Front brake dust shields
    • Front calipers, loaded
    • Front rotors
    • Front crash bar
    • Rear crash bar
    • Parking brake cables
    • Exhaust manifolds with catalytic converters
    • Driveshaft
    • Rear seat assembly
    • Rear seat belts
    • Engine mounts
    • Upper radiator supports
    • Intake assembly (air box, filter, sound tube)
    • Rear vertical links
    • Rear camber arms
    • Rear toe arms

    More fun stuff I am considering selling and need to be less wish washy on.
    • P1x Procharger headunit
    • 4.5" 8 rib procharger pulley and belt
    • Procharger inlet pipe and filter for p and d series blowers
    • Pypes catless LTH
    • Krona Performance stainless catback exhaust system
    What I'd replace the above with in support of more long term objectives:
    • F1a-94 headunit
    • Large ass pulley and belt until short block is done
    • Turbo guard
    • 2" primary catless LTH, maybe
    • Self-made lightweight drag exhaust
     
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  8. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    Id be interested in the p1x
     
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  9. 18 Smoke

    18 Smoke Well-Known Member

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    You’ll definitely have better luck with list #2. Most shit on list #1, I gave away or threw away! Lol
     
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  10. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    I put the P1x up for sale. We'll see what happens.

    In the meantime, installed a Motion Raceworks parachute mount. I will have the bar stitch welded into the car when I have the cage done this winter. I don't want anyone to get the impression I am relying on those 4 13mm bolts. On to the pics!

    parachuteinstall.jpg

    Bolted on the bar:

    parachute1.jpg

    Line it all up and drilled some holes and then made some cuts on the guts of the bumper to make it all work. Also had to clearance the license plate a touch. Very happy.

    parachute2.jpg parachute3.jpg parachute4.jpg parachute5.jpg parachute.jpg
     
  11. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    Badass!!!! Looks killer. Can't imagine that welding the mount is necessary.
     
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  12. Notagain

    Notagain Well-Known Member

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    Just sell this to me. I traded my 18 A10 for a new F150....... LOL

    Dang this is a killer car though! Love it!
     
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  13. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    Thanks!

    MSD 2 step is here. Just need to figure out the nuances for the 2018+ install.

    2step.jpg
     
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  14. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    As a side note, if anyone knows exactly where to flip polarity to get this connected properly and to save me time, do share.
     
  15. OP
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    turnswrench

    turnswrench turnswrench

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    I called MSD today while at work. Here's what was said "unofficially" (to be clear part no 87311 is not supported for 2018+). It was mentioned to remove all of the blue directional plug caps from the pigtails with the exception of cylinder 3. It was then mentioned that grey wires should connect to the purple wires on the car side with the exception of cylinder 3. Well, both of these things can't be true. It's either 7 cylinders are connected grey to purple and cylinder 3 alone is opposite, or I remove all of the direction plug caps and that means only cylinder 3 would be connected grey to purple.

    Short and sweet, I am no clearer on the way to install this. Frustration is slowly brewing, :)
     
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