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turnswrench
turnswrench
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- #1,621
I haven't torn the plastic off yet. I'm thinking it looks black, tho
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2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project
fmc_smt
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Those are new engines, not reman. If it was a reman it would have a Motorcraft filter , not a fomoco filter .Mine too. Black filter with white sticker on it
80FoxCoupe
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Good thing considering he bought a new engine!
deanm11
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QUOTE="turnswrench, post: 3295623, member: 34615"]
First time around I used digital calipers, and I was within the hundredths but had no clue at the thousandths or ten-thousandths. I used a proper install tool and no heat so I had complete confidence in the install, but I'm sure the tolerances weren't perfect. I don't want to risk this new crank so I want to be within spec.
[/QUOTE]
You may want to pick up a good used Mitutoyo micrometer. In preparation for an eventual ATI install, I got an 0.0001" precision Mitutoyo (non-digital) micrometer and also a Fowler gage block set to verify the micrometer is accurate. Ten-thousandths is awfully precise, 30 degrees ambient temperature variance could put you off. I think our cranks are supposed to be 1.25" but obviously it has to be measured. You really have to sift through micrometers on ebay; so many different styles and measurement ranges. We can leave the dial bore measuring to ATI or a shop doing the machining but it sure would be nice to see the starting point and to be able to verify the work... nobody cares about your stuff more than you do!
First time around I used digital calipers, and I was within the hundredths but had no clue at the thousandths or ten-thousandths. I used a proper install tool and no heat so I had complete confidence in the install, but I'm sure the tolerances weren't perfect. I don't want to risk this new crank so I want to be within spec.
[/QUOTE]
You may want to pick up a good used Mitutoyo micrometer. In preparation for an eventual ATI install, I got an 0.0001" precision Mitutoyo (non-digital) micrometer and also a Fowler gage block set to verify the micrometer is accurate. Ten-thousandths is awfully precise, 30 degrees ambient temperature variance could put you off. I think our cranks are supposed to be 1.25" but obviously it has to be measured. You really have to sift through micrometers on ebay; so many different styles and measurement ranges. We can leave the dial bore measuring to ATI or a shop doing the machining but it sure would be nice to see the starting point and to be able to verify the work... nobody cares about your stuff more than you do!
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #1,626
Pulled some time in the garage today. Got the cracked block out, heads off, and decided to look at the rod and piston from the bad cylinder.
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #1,627
...also this
Needed to make room in the garage, so the new long block went in. I'll do the rest of the work in the engine bay. It's not as easy, but it's all I know
Needed to make room in the garage, so the new long block went in. I'll do the rest of the work in the engine bay. It's not as easy, but it's all I know
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #1,629
The cracked cylinder. #7
TGGT
Well-Known Member
#7 seems to be a common theme with these engines. It’s what had me considering the head cooling mod, but now I’m not so sure I want to do that. Perhaps I could pull some timing from 7&8 . Maybe that would help with any potential problems. I am only running 13-13.5 psi hopefully it’s a non issue at this boost level. I suppose time will tell. What are your plans from keeping this from happening again? I think I saw in one of your post that you were going to a bigger pulley
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bauern
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You can try the higher flow water pump from the predator or M-8501-M52A (same as predator pump).
olaosunt
Well-Known Member
i also had a cylinder #7 failure .
i will be doing the head cooling mod on my new motor . I Was going to also do the oil cross over lines like I did on my last voodoo ... it’s was going to be a bit of hassle tapping plugs so decided not
I may try and grab the 5.2 pump if it’s available.
@bauern , do you know if they still back ordered ?
whatever I can do to make the new motor last .
80FoxCoupe
Well-Known Member
As we know, the coolant flow is as such: rad/water pump/block (both banks)/up from block into head around each cyl/ out at front of each head. I just dont see how a hose connecting the rear of each head improves or promotes any additional flow.
TGGT
Well-Known Member
To be honest. I’ve been going over that same thing in my head. It’s the reason I haven’t ordered it yet. I’m just not quite sold on it. I’m thinking the 170 t-stat and some adjustments to the timing bias tables would probably be a better bet.!
80FoxCoupe
Well-Known Member
It could equalize a pressure differential between banks, but id bet the pass side (cyl 1-4) has more resistance to flow due to heater core versus driver side head outlet dump straight into the thermostat housing.
The 170 stat and lower fan on temp def helps. I just did the PP radiator and normal driving head temps hover about 185 in 90deg ambient.
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