2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project

[turnswrench]

It's been a busy start to the weekend. Wednesday night I fired up the mustang for the first time in a while, we've had about a month of sub-zero temps. Before starting it, I needed to put the charge piping back on. It was rewarding to hear it run again. Yesterday I had the chance to help a friend on his 1990 f250. He didn't have brakes and it wouldn't start. Although we had to work on the ground in the snow, we knocked it out just about 9pm.

Today the winds were 20 - 30 mph making it feel pretty chilly, but the temps were in the low 40s. I did a cold start, backed the car out of the garage, finished up some wiring under the dash, and installed the shift light before putting it back to sleep in the garage. We have snow coming Sunday.

Thought I'd share:

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[fmc_smt]

Nice work my friend. Your weather might catch up to ours soon , but by then it will be hot as shit here .lol

 

[turnswrench]

Moved on to the battery relocation project.

Picked up a battery:

Mounted the Flaming River big switch with lever kit to get me started. This will help locate where the battery box goes. It needs to have 3/8" studs that mount into the frame rail to be legal:

Looks like this when the battery is engaged:

This is what it looks like when the lever is pushed in to disengage the battery:

I picked up some grommets from Home Depot, but they don't fit well with the thickness of the bumper. Ordered some from Grainger. Still need to order wiring, battery box, etc..

 

[turnswrench]

Grommet installed for that finishing touch

 

[BeastAR]

Is there any reason you are going with a push/pull kill switch rather than a toggle/rotate kill switch? (just wondering) See the picture below for reference.

 

[turnswrench]

Is there any reason you are going with a push/pull kill switch rather than a toggle/rotate kill switch? (just wondering) See the picture below for reference.

The one you pictured has a plastic switch which isn't NHRA legal. Just fyi. I also got a high rated amp switch instead of something cheaper.

The reason I wanted the lever was the ease of connections and working on the switch. You got to keep in mind how large the switch and the connections are. There's a lot more room in the trunk vs between the bumper and the chassis. You would have to cut up a lot of the body to fit a bumper mounted switch with a few 2 AWG wires bolted to it. All I had to do was drill a half inch hole and mount the switch accessibility in the car.

The battery box comes this weekend, I'll be mounting that up to the frame pinch weld with two 3/8" bolts meeting NHRA requirements. More to come.

 

[Strokerswild]

Not to mention it's a quicker visual check to see if the pull switch is off....

 

[BeastAR]

The one you pictured has a plastic switch which isn't NHRA legal. Just fyi. I also got a high rated amp switch instead of something cheaper.

The reason I wanted the lever was the ease of connections and working on the switch. You got to keep in mind how large the switch and the connections are. There's a lot more room in the trunk vs between the bumper and the chassis. You would have to cut up a lot of the body to fit a bumper mounted switch with a few 2 AWG wires bolted to it. All I had to do was drill a half inch hole and mount the switch accessibility in the car.

The battery box comes this weekend, I'll be mounting that up to the frame pinch weld with two 3/8" bolts meeting NHRA requirements. More to come.

Ahh... Makes sense. Thanks for the information

 

[turnswrench]

Mounted the Moroso NHRA sealed battery box using the required 3/8" studs.

Got the box vented to atmosphere outside of the car. Next step is to pull the wiring, which I need to purchase still. Moving right along on this project.

 

[fmc_smt]

Mounted the Moroso NHRA sealed battery box using the required 3/8" studs.

Got the box vented to atmosphere outside of the car. Next step is to pull the wiring, which I need to purchase still. Moving right along on this project.

Dude where are you going to put the sub woofer ? Sorry had to .

 

[turnswrench]

Some more in progress pics.

Factory battery box and hardware plate removed:

Making some space to mount remote battery terminals where the box used to be:

(2) 3/8" studs holding box and battery:

Mounted through the pinch weld and the battery box vent tube:

Rerouting the fuel system power cable back to the trunk:

It's all still messy but coming along. Wiring is ordered.

 

[turnswrench]

Was in the 60s on Sunday this week! Got to work in the garage:

Battery and battery box done:

Disconnect switch wired and done:

Waiting on remote battery terminals to install in the factory battery box area to connect factory cables:

Alternator output connection that runs back to charge the battery:

The remote battery posts come Tuesday. Should be able to test the powersports battery for the first time then.

 

[turnswrench]

Remote battery terminals didn't show up today as expected... I did get the wiring tucked up under the car, though.

 

[turnswrench]

Mounted battery charging posts so that I don't have to open the truck or pull the battery lid to trickle charge the battery:

Still waiting on parts to finish the battery connections at the front of the car.

 

[turnswrench]

Final pieces came in today. The project is complete and the car runs again

Battery connections under the hood:

Quick video of the setup working and the first start on the new setup and the power sports battery:

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