So is a blowtorch.Got to love AZ weather in the winter ..........not so much in the summer , but it is a dry heat .........
Since it's been cold out, I've found time to strum the pages of the NHRA rule book. Although the track officials haven't given me any grief on my battery setup so far, I think I'll update it to meet the requirements of 9.99 or faster.
Here's my plan, I'm sharing for feedback and anything I may be missing, so feel free to chime in.
When the lever on the disconnect switch is pushed in, it will isolate the battery and alternator voltage from the car 100%.
- Sealed battery box mounted in trunk. Since the battery will no longer be behind a firewall, it needs to be sealed in a box and vented out of the car. Thinking the Summit premium box.
- Push/pull master power disconnect switch with lever kit. Must be able to kill the car when running. Ordered a Flaming River setup.
- Etx18l power sports battery, AGM. Thinking Deka.
- Going to run the negative battery terminal to a ground location in the trunk with a short lead, 2 gauge.
- Going to run from the positive battery terminal to a fuse holder, from the fuse holder to one of the posts on the disconnect switch, 2 gauge.
- Going to run the alternator output to the same post on the disconnect switch as the positive battery lead with an in-line fuse close to the disconnect, 2 gauge. So the alternator will now no longer connect to C1035B on the fuse box under the hood.
- Going to run from the opposite side of the disconnect switch to a set of remote battery posts where the battery used to be under the hood, 2 gauge.
- The remote battery posts will accept the factory battery cables. The negative side will go to ground and as previously mentioned the positive side runs back to the disconnect switch.
- Going to re-route the fuel pump power from under the hood to the battery in the trunk.
If you are more visual, like me, here you go:
Nailed it!On another note
Regardless of battery position you need the disconnect for 9.99 or 132mph in the rules this year.Why don't you just keep the battery in the stock location, then you dont have to do anything
That is my understanding as well. Depending on the class, cutoff only shows to be needed if battery is in the trunk and in some classes is needed if battery was moved from factory location (trunk not being singled out).Pretty sure the disconnect applies only if the battery is relocated from the stock position