2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project

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Track outing next week? The pic of your dash is a little blurry. Do I see a low tire pressure light illuminated on the dash? I was wondering if you decided not to run TPMS sensors in the wheels? I have been on the fence about this myself; trying to decide whether I should run them in my drag pack.
I don't run tpms in my drag setup which is what I've been out in the car on. Make sure you run metal valve stems vs plastic stuff.

No track events this month. August is always a tough month. Last weekend was my wife's bday. Yesterday was mine. Today is my brother's. Next weekend is our wedding anniv. It'll be in September.
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It really doesn't impede the wheel. In the video I posted above from the ride along, you can see it does wrap around the wheel but doesn't prevent me from driving or cause a disruption. If I was trying to make a u-turn in heavy traffic close to full lock, I'd grab the cords and lift them up and whip the wheel.
May be mine is installed wrong but I had a lot of difficulty with the cord becoming entangled turning the wheel .
I ended doing this so I can disconnect the cord when not using the trans brake and reconnect at the drag strip .

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I don't run tpms in my drag setup which is what I've been out in the car on. Make sure you run metal valve stems vs plastic stuff.

No track events this month. August is always a tough month. Last weekend was my wife's bday. Yesterday was mine. Today is my brother's. Next weekend is our wedding anniv. It'll be in September.
Copy that on the valve stems. I‘m excited for you brother and can’t wait to hear how she does at the track next month.
 
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Back from vacation celebrating the anniversary with my wife. We snuck up to Anchorage for a week and it was amazing.

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Ordered a window net for the car since mine expired during the summer. Getting ready for a track visit in September.
 

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I've been following this thread since I bought my 18 and have gotten so many ideas and such from you, thanks for all the details! I do have one question for you, I didn't see it anywhere in the TH400 section, but I may have missed it. How did you wire the OE pushbutton start/neutral safety wiring into the TH400 shifters neutral safety switch? I'm sure my 10R80 is on borrowed time and I have a 2000HP TH400 waiting to go in.....lol.
 
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I've been following this thread since I bought my 18 and have gotten so many ideas and such from you, thanks for all the details! I do have one question for you, I didn't see it anywhere in the TH400 section, but I may have missed it. How did you wire the OE pushbutton start/neutral safety wiring into the TH400 shifters neutral safety switch? I'm sure my 10R80 is on borrowed time and I have a 2000HP TH400 waiting to go in.....lol.
Thanks for tuning in. The pretty cool part of swapping in the TH400 is you really don't need to do much wiring. The only wiring needed is the reverse activation circuit. Your tuner will need to flash your PCM from an auto to a manual. There's no need to uninstall it. The tune itself can change over the PCM. Your tuner can also set the left side steering wheel paddle to act as the neutral safety switch/clutch input to start the vehicle.

Now, if you wanted some extra safety to ensure the car wouldn't turn over unless it's in park, you will need to interrupt the the paddle wiring with a micro switch on the shifter. I did not do that. Theoretically, my car would turn over regardless of which gear the transmission is in if I had the left paddle engaged and pressed the start button. I don't intend on trying to start the car when it isn't in park and nobody else really drives it, so the risk for me is low enough not to do this.

I'd grab the paddle wiring at the PCM. Grab one side and cut it. Pull one side to the shifter park micro switch, and then run it back to the other side to break continuity when the shifter is not in the park position.
 
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Another step for the track visit:

1630173348528.png


(since I used the last of the drum I had)
 

MIKE MOORE

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Thanks for tuning in. The pretty cool part of swapping in the TH400 is you really don't need to do much wiring. The only wiring needed is the reverse activation circuit. Your tuner will need to flash your PCM from an auto to a manual. There's no need to uninstall it. The tune itself can change over the PCM. Your tuner can also set the left side steering wheel paddle to act as the neutral safety switch/clutch input to start the vehicle.

Now, if you wanted some extra safety to ensure the car wouldn't turn over unless it's in park, you will need to interrupt the the paddle wiring with a micro switch on the shifter. I did not do that. Theoretically, my car would turn over regardless of which gear the transmission is in if I had the left paddle engaged and pressed the start button. I don't intend on trying to start the car when it isn't in park and nobody else really drives it, so the risk for me is low enough not to do this.

I'd grab the paddle wiring at the PCM. Grab one side and cut it. Pull one side to the shifter park micro switch, and then run it back to the other side to break continuity when the shifter is not in the park position.
Man you are awesome, thank you for the quick reply! Can't wait to see the next step in your build!
 

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Another step for the track visit:

1630173348528.png


(since I used the last of the drum I had)
Haha! Careful now, don’t stare at those cans too long, or the contents will evaporate before you even get a chance to pour them into your car’s fuel tank. We need cans like this to sustain us.

1C774809-453B-4333-A8AD-1CA3B486F4D2.jpeg
 
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Haha! Careful now, don’t stare at those cans too long, or the contents will evaporate before you even get a chance to pour them into your car’s fuel tank. We need cans like this to sustain us.

1C774809-453B-4333-A8AD-1CA3B486F4D2.jpeg
haha you're not wrong!!
 
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New window net is installed.

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I put up 21 youtube videos this month. Did one for the window net as well:


Thinking Sept 11 is my chance to go racing, hope the weather is good.
 
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Since I haven't weighed the car since the TH400 swap, I thought I'd do that:



For those not interested in youtube, the car weighed 3520 with 3/4 tank of fuel and me out of the car. CAT scales round to the nearest 20th lb. So the car is somewhere around 3500-3520 in track trim (plus a little extra fuel)

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Were you anticipating being somewhere within that range or did you think it was lighter? Any plans to put it on a bread and water diet to get the weight down some? If so, how wI’ll you go about it and what would be the new goal weight?
 
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Were you anticipating being somewhere within that range or did you think it was lighter? Any plans to put it on a bread and water diet to get the weight down some? If so, how wI’ll you go about it and what would be the new goal weight?
I'd say that's in the ballpark. I was going to remove the air conditioning since I basically don't use it, but I opted to keep it for a while longer. Had I removed that system (and even possibly the heater core) I would have expected something lower.

I also don't love my wheels (the weight of them). They are absolutely heavier than they need to be, just not in the budget to replace them.

I like the rear window defrost or else I would plan to put optic armor in the rear as well.

Other ways I could (but may not) cut down on weight:
- swap the driveshaft out for carbon fiber
- plastic intake manifold
- titanium turndowns on headers
- take out interior pieces, carpet, and remove sound deadening
- some carbon body panels
- aftermarket steering column and steering wheel

Ways I will likely add weight:
- Iron diff or 9" rear
- drag wing
- larger FMIC
- built longblock (I think this will weigh more but not sure)
- bolt together converter
 
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Cleaned up the mustang and the wife and I took it to Cars and Coffee today.

Made a quick video of the trip:


For those not interested in youtube, I grabbed a pic:

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Turned out to be a nice day.
 
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