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2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project

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Mustang is grounded due to a bad rotor hat. This must have been machined wrong from the start but just showed signs of issues. I reached out to the manufacturer to see if they can help me get a new one.
In other news, the brake company contacted me and will be sending me a new rotor hat. Happy to have that go without hassle.
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Beefcake has a lot of experience with centri supercharges and autos. He should be able to point you in the right direction.
 
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I called ATI and they argued that it's fine. That they specd it properly. Car is dropping 1,600 rpm per gear change which is not keeping the procharger happy.
I spoke with Lane at PTC and he doesn't think the converter I have is going to work. He said the car needs to flash to 5,500 rpm and only drop 700 rpm between shifts to work. He did say the 3.15 gears would be fine, he said I could go to a 3.55 if I wanted the iron housing. I think I will swap to the iron housing for security. Who has one??? :)
 
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Brake rotor hat is replaced, all is good again.

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Have you done a hit on the new setup yet?
 

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Have you done a hit on the new setup yet?
No boost at all yet. I asked Rob to check on the logs, he didn't notice anything out of order. So I'm going to sneak up on it a bit more with the brake rotor fixed.
 

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Alright who knows enough about specing out converters, converter slippage, rear gearing, power delivery of a centri supercharger, etc.. to make a recommendation for me.

Car weighs ~3500
TH400 gearing 2.48/1.48/1
Rear gear 3.15
Tire diameter 27.8
1/8 mile slip earlier this year off footbrake, ~3200 rpm:
  • 1.550 60'
  • 6.089 660'
  • 124.34 660' mph
Car would benefit from hanging around in the higher rpm for the procharger.

I think the converter slip may be way out of spec for the car or said differently, the car needs a different rear gear. Maybe 3.73 - 4.10

Anyone educated enough to pull out some facts/logic?
I would start with the gear swap before pulling the converter. With stock engine and wanting to keep rpm down, id recommend the 373. If you are ok with running more rpm through the trap run the 410.
 

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No boost at all yet. I asked Rob to check on the logs, he didn't notice anything out of order. So I'm going to sneak up on it a bit more with the brake rotor fixed.
That’s cool. Best to be safe. I just did my first pull this morning. My tune was always spot on, but just to be safe I lowered my shift points to 7300 and pulled 2 degrees out everywhere. What kind of boost do you think you’ll see with the 4.88?
 
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That’s cool. Best to be safe. I just did my first pull this morning. My tune was always spot on, but just to be safe I lowered my shift points to 7300 and pulled 2 degrees out everywhere. What kind of boost do you think you’ll see with the 4.88?
Hopefully no more than 18 at 7500 but not a lot of timing. What timing did you see at 7300?
 

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Hopefully no more than 18 at 7500 but not a lot of timing. What timing did you see at 7300?
My log was showing 20 degrees. It’s a bit more than I wanted. I was hoping to be at no more than 19. I think the knock sensors were adding. I’m going to look at the file later and see if I missed something. I’m sure it’s plenty safe and I only see 12 psi at 7300
 

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I would say before doing anything at all to make a hit. Then based on that log/slip, change the rear gear to end on the sweet spot. Go again, then using this data see if a converter swap is worth it. 1500-1600 is what mine drops per shift.
 

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Have you tried talking to JPC since they are popular in the TH400 game? They should have a converter spec for what you need.
 
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Have you tried talking to JPC since they are popular in the TH400 game? They should have a converter spec for what you need.
Yes, I think I'll work with a converter company, though.
 
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For anyone interested in "riding along" in the car:

 
 




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