2018 Mustang PP upgrade from wrecked car

[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey guy, I own a 2018 Mustang Ecoboost Premium Convertible and am looking at swapping over some parts from a 2019 EcoBoost Premium Coupe PP. A local parts yard has it available and I got some prices.
This is my car:

This is the car I'd be taking parts from:

The parts I asked about are listed here.
Brakes: $175 per side, four piston BREMBO in front, one rear available for $40
Strut bar: Sold
Rear Sway Bar: $50
Digital Dash: Sold

I was originally thinking it'd be cool to get the larger radiator, but you can see why I decided to wait

I just bought this car and am new to Mustangs, hoping to get some advice on what parts would be worth getting to swap over.

I mainly cruise my car around the L.A. area and enjoy taking it down the PCH and through the Malibu Canyons. Went with the I4 over the V8 due to, cost, insurance, and gas. Though having the extra handling performance for Canyon drives would be awesome, as long as it doesn't effect ride comfort.

I talked them down to $300 for both front Brembo calipers and discs. Though they don't come with any hardware. What's your thoughts on getting them?

Appreciate any help or advice!

Sponsored

 

[kz]

Front calipers aren't Brembo - they're FoMoCo branded and made by Continental. Is that a price with the rotors ?

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Front calipers aren't Brembo - they're FoMoCo branded and made by Continental. Is that a price with the rotors ?

Ahhhhhh, just noticed that it says that too on Fords site "Larger Brake Rotors with Four-Piston Fixed Calipers". Though yes it's the calipers and rotors, no hardware included though. So I'm not quite sure what exactly I'd need to buy along with it.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Just heard the stock GT front brakes are the same as the EcoBoost PP brakes. Maybe it'd be better to find those instead as they'd be even cheaper?

 

[kz]

Just heard the stock GT front brakes are the same as the EcoBoost PP brakes. Maybe it'd be better to find those instead as they'd be even cheaper?

Kind of what I wanted to suggest - I don't remember their cost but you will be getting brand new parts, not from a wrecked car. Also - lots of people are upgrading to 6 piston GT PP Brembos and are selling GT non-PP calipers - look into classifieds section.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Kind of what I wanted to suggest - I don't remember their cost but you will be getting brand new parts, not from a wrecked car. Also - lots of people are upgrading to 6 piston GT PP Brembos and are selling GT non-PP calipers - look into classifieds section.

Found a local yard and they're selling both front brakes for $175 a side and they are the 6 Piston GT PP, listed for a 2016-18. I am running 19" rims, what exactly would be involved in swapping them onto my 2018 Ecoboost?

 

[CVCashmere]

you'd be surprised how much of a difference the larger rear sway will make to your car. It was the first items i switched off of another PP to my vert. Helps reduce that left front dive when cornering to the right.

Best $50 spent ever!

CVCashmere

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

you'd be surprised how much of a difference the larger rear sway will make to your car. It was the first items i switched off of another PP to my vert. Helps reduce that left front dive when cornering to the right.

Best $50 spent ever!

CVCashmere

Thanks for the reply!

Will I lose any ride quality with the larger bar?

If it really helps handling and being only $50 I'll probably swap it out. I watched this video here

I don't have an impact wrench or jacks I have a ramp though I've used for fluid changes. Would I be able to swap it out using that? And lastly, when I pick up the seat bar do I need to be sure to get any hardware or additional parts?

[Edit] Oh and do I need anything on the front end?

 

[kz]

So - you need weight off the suspension to replace the bar. Rear one is easy to replace though (significantly easier than front), I will warn you though that it will make your car quite a bit more prone to oversteer - if you just stiffen the rear bar without doing anything to the front one.
Jack and jack stands are worth buying if you do any amount of wrenching on your car, so use that as opportunity to get some more tools that will be useful for years.

 

[Bluemustang]

No, on the rear sway bar. Guys, that's not how you make this car work. It might FEEL good, but ultimately it makes you slower. Don't try to increase front grip by taking away grip from the rear. This car works by putting as much power down as possible. Stiffer rear sway bar reduces that ability. I'm out.

 

[Bluemustang]

To the OP, the base GT 4 pistons are not worth your time. Brembos are cheap enough, get the 6 pistons.

 

[Dana Pants]

No, on the rear sway bar. Guys, that's not how you make this car work. It might FEEL good, but ultimately it makes you slower. Don't try to increase front grip by taking away grip from the rear. This car works by putting as much power down as possible. Stiffer rear sway bar reduces that ability. I'm out.

that’s not really how it works. A rear bar puts more weight and traction to the inside front in exchange for taking weight and traction off the inside rear. I run only a rear bar upgrade (thanks kz) but wouldn’t really recommend it to someone unless they figure out for themselves that they need it based on motor sports experience. Plus with rear bar I have no problem putting down 460 hp.

Autocross requires control of car position and car angle. Without the rear bar I had no control over car angle as the Mustang was an under steering pig until an insane amount of throttle completely lit up the rear tires.

 

[Bluemustang]

that’s not really how it works. A rear bar puts more weight and traction to the inside front in exchange for taking weight and traction off the inside rear. I run only a rear bar upgrade (thanks kz) but wouldn’t really recommend it to someone unless they figure out for themselves that they need it based on motor sports experience. Plus with rear bar I have no problem putting down 460 hp.

Almost no fast autocross or track guys run a rear bar only or a stiff rear bar period. The front sway bar is the one they upgrade. Look at BMWs. Similar weight, RWD and suspension design. It's the same way with those cars. Whether you like it or not, the stiffer you go on the rear bar so more you reduce traction coming out of corners. You go fast in this car by going slow in, fast out. Maximize corner exit traction. Rear bar hampers this.

 

[Dana Pants]

Almost no fast autocross or track guys run a rear bar only or a stiff rear bar period. The front sway bar is the one they upgrade. Look at BMWs. Similar weight, RWD and suspension design. It's the same way with those cars. Whether you like it or not, the stiffer you go on the rear bar so more you reduce traction coming out of corners. You go fast in this car by going slow in, fast out. Maximize corner exit traction. Rear bar hampers this.

If I wasn’t bound by the street class rulebook I would also run a giant front bar and like -4 deg front camber and 11 in wide wheels all around... but here I am.

Sponsored