2018 GT: to PP or not to PP

[5.oh]

Looking to get into a 2018 GT but I can't decide if I want to go PP or not. Car will be boosted. Leaning A10 so 3.15 vs 3.55's. Like the idea of the brembos but but may not be necessary.

Thoughts?

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[BmacIL]

When in doubt, PP.

 

[Labradog]

I would have gotten it if Ford offered it on the autos in 2016. Not as much of a bargain now at $4k, but the Brembo's will cost you over $1000 alone if you go with oe pads/rotors after.

 

[2018OFPP1?2]

Looking to get into a 2018 GT but I can't decide if I want to go PP or not. Car will be boosted. Leaning A10 so 3.15 vs 3.55's. Like the idea of the brembos but but may not be necessary.

Thoughts?

So it's not the bargain it used to be, you still can't add all that stuff for the price. And you should definitely be thinking better brakes if you're adding more power.

 

[2015Etrac]

I would, especially if you don't plan on modding the car yourself......However, if you plan to add your own suspension setup, wheels, etc. then it might be cheaper just to buy the PP brakes and install them later vs. paying for a bunch of stuff that you will be replacing anyway. If I was buying a 2018 I'd probably get the auto with PP and Magneride.

 

[Cardude99]

I just went PP

 

[Arthonon]

I just went PP

TMI

 

[Cardude99]

TMI

Lol I couldn't resist

 

[5.oh]

I would, especially if you don't plan on modding the car yourself......However, if you plan to add your own suspension setup, wheels, etc. then it might be cheaper just to buy the PP brakes and install them later vs. paying for a bunch of stuff that you will be replacing anyway. If I was buying a 2018 I'd probably get the auto with PP and Magneride.

It will have a full aftermarket suspension so you make a valid point....

 

[Cobra Jet]

PP for sure, no doubt - because if you don’t, then you’ll be posting on here how you wish you had different rear gearing, all the PP gadgets, etc... then we’ll have to berate, torment and bully you after that posting saying “told ya so”....

 

[sigintel]

Differentials:
PP - Torsen 3.55 on road courses performs better, but generates more heat and may require cooling duct, heat wrap on exhaust, fluid change or full cooler setup if running 20 min sessions w full throttle early on every corner exit.
Hard to say which diff can hold more torque if using drag slicks.
If boosted, 3.55 w old 6R80 was typically slower at the strip vs 3.15 on the typical budget boosted GT setup. This likely still applies to 10R80 as first two gears are optimized for stock motor. Maybe ask Dustin Whipple or Terry aka Beefcake.

Base - LSD 3.15 is better ratio for boosted applications w less torque on the line and easier to hook up w street DOT comp tires. Might run lower temps and better heat transfer w Aluminum case. I ran these on road courses w a Whipple and just changed fluid every other event. I did kill one, but found tons of 3.15 replacements from salvage for $300 a pop or less.

Radiator:
PP=GT350=minimum radiator for FI. I upgraded my base to PP rad after adding the Whipple. It is mandatory for Texas summers and FI.
You could go base and upgrade to better than PP w Mish or other higher end rad.
Either way, you will want a Reische 170 thermostat.

Brakes:
Destroyed my base brakes on road course. You need larger brembos with these heavy cars and FI. FI needs full brake ducts on 6 pot Brembos if running 20 min road course sessions.

Minor suspension differences:
PP may have a couple different bushings. If you are going to road course, you may be changing these anyway.

Firewall to strut tower brace:
This is the heavy brace that triangulates from firewall to strut tower.
Check if this is still omitted on base GT

Wheels: base wheels do not fit after you upgrade to PP Brembo 6 pots.

Costs to acquire not including acquisition time or install:
PP 6 pot brakes $1200
PP/GT350 rad $600
Brace $100
Torsen if you need it $600-900
Wheels for rain/AS tires $400-1000

To have all that installed ready to go w factory warranty support is worth another $1000 beyond raw parts cost.

Now since OP said clearly car will be boosted (assuming supercharger or turbos), both the base and PP1 rear tires will be unable to deliver the power to the ground, so assume new wheels tires needed.

There have been some engine issues reported on 2018s, so I would actually consider PP1 w Auto and drive it stock pretty hard for 3k miles to make sure valve springs and retainers hold.

The brakes and rad already installed and ready to go are worth $2k and very useful if you are going FI.
If you go base, you should save $4k off PP1 out the door price. But you will need the rad if driven hard 5+ min straight in summer heat boosted.

Bottomline:
If street use only for rolls and such, save the 4k to allocate towards your FI setup. From your sig you clearly have a knack for performance per dollar.
If track days might happen, figure brembos required one way or another.
If extended breakin to 3k+ prior to FI, could go either way.
If dealer goes 8k off PP1, but only 6k off base, go PP1.
If dealer goes 6k off either with base close to 30k, base might be best to keep cash free for boost.

 

[wireeater]

Yes. I had it on my last one, really wanted it on the 2018 but didn't plan on it because of price but found the one I have now and get a super awesome deal that put me back down to where I was comfortable buying it. It's still worth the 3k in my opinion. Everyone says "well you can mod to be bla bla" but the thing is, you get the better car right off the lot and it is more enjoyable.

Also I will tell you the A10 in the 3.55 feels WAY better than the 3.15 on the street. The way it pulls is ridiculously fun. I test drove a premium, non PP a few months back when getting the oil changed in my other car and did not leave wanting the car. When I took the one I own now out for a test drive, I was ready to sign the paper work after coming back.

And it seems everyone is going for the 3.55 for drag racing applications as well. I think they are ratioed perfect for the 1/4.

 

[nastang87xx]

Boosted? PP, just for the brakes alone. More power, more brake. ALWAYS.

 

[5.oh]

Differentials:
PP - Torsen 3.55 on road courses performs better, but generates more heat and may require cooling duct, heat wrap on exhaust, fluid change or full cooler setup if running 20 min sessions w full throttle early on every corner exit.
Hard to say which diff can hold more torque if using drag slicks.
If boosted, 3.55 w old 6R80 was typically slower at the strip vs 3.15 on the typical budget boosted GT setup. This likely still applies to 10R80 as first two gears are optimized for stock motor. Maybe ask Dustin Whipple or Terry aka Beefcake.

Base - LSD 3.15 is better ratio for boosted applications w less torque on the line and easier to hook up w street DOT comp tires. Might run lower temps and better heat transfer w Aluminum case. I ran these on road courses w a Whipple and just changed fluid every other event. I did kill one, but found tons of 3.15 replacements from salvage for $300 a pop or less.

Radiator:
PP=GT350=minimum radiator for FI. I upgraded my base to PP rad after adding the Whipple. It is mandatory for Texas summers and FI.
You could go base and upgrade to better than PP w Mish or other higher end rad.
Either way, you will want a Reische 170 thermostat.

Brakes:
Destroyed my base brakes on road course. You need larger brembos with these heavy cars and FI. FI needs full brake ducts on 6 pot Brembos if running 20 min road course sessions.

Minor suspension differences:
PP may have a couple different bushings. If you are going to road course, you may be changing these anyway.

Firewall to strut tower brace:
This is the heavy brace that triangulates from firewall to strut tower.
Check if this is still omitted on base GT

Wheels: base wheels do not fit after you upgrade to PP Brembo 6 pots.

Costs to acquire not including acquisition time or install:
PP 6 pot brakes $1200
PP/GT350 rad $600
Brace $100
Torsen if you need it $600-900
Wheels for rain/AS tires $400-1000

To have all that installed ready to go w factory warranty support is worth another $1000 beyond raw parts cost.

Now since OP said clearly car will be boosted (assuming supercharger or turbos), both the base and PP1 rear tires will be unable to deliver the power to the ground, so assume new wheels tires needed.

There have been some engine issues reported on 2018s, so I would actually consider PP1 w Auto and drive it stock pretty hard for 3k miles to make sure valve springs and retainers hold.

The brakes and rad already installed and ready to go are worth $2k and very useful if you are going FI.
If you go base, you should save $4k off PP1 out the door price. But you will need the rad if driven hard 5+ min straight in summer heat boosted.

Bottomline:
If street use only for rolls and such, save the 4k to allocate towards your FI setup. From your sig you clearly have a knack for performance per dollar.
If track days might happen, figure brembos required one way or another.
If extended breakin to 3k+ prior to FI, could go either way.
If dealer goes 8k off PP1, but only 6k off base, go PP1.
If dealer goes 6k off either with base close to 30k, base might be best to keep cash free for boost.

puts a lot into perspective. This car wont see much if any road courses only drag trip and trips to mexico. Brakes will be a must no matter what for sure. The rear gearing could be an issue with more power but I dont expect to be running 145+ traps anytime soon so the 3.55 would be fine. Ive already got the wheels tires for street and strip due to the previous car so fitting the brakes isnt an issue.

 

[Nomadic]

Boosted? PP, just for the brakes alone. More power, more brake. ALWAYS.

This. PP is expensive now compared to what it cost of my '15. But the Brembos rock. I'd do it for sure if you're going to boost.

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