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2018 GT mt82 trans swap to 2019 bullet

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Hi guys, New to the forum. I've enjoyed the Mustang since the '70s. Had several in my youth and then life happens. Married, kids rides to soccer ect. I now own a 2018 Mustang GT. Love the car until I blew 3rd and 4th. it'll shift into the gate s for 3 & 4 but won't engage. I have worked on them thru the years including putting a 351c in a '66 convertible. Oh yea, fun ride, with a c6 tranny. I can turn a wrench pretty good but electronics I sorta get lost. To repair my 2018 gt, I have removed the trans and found and bought a 2019 mt82 d-4 out of a wrecked bullet. My mt82 has a 3 pin oss sensor and the bullet trans has a 6 pin sensor. Would like to use the newer low mi. trans. Has anyone found a solution? Can't find a wiring diagram for either to allow me to hook the 3 pin to the 6 pin. Seems that I should be able get it done but???
Thanks for any help at all would be appreciated.
Peaceful warrior
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Thats not a Bullitt question, MT82 for Bullitt and GT are the same.

Sure you have a MY2018?
Not sure if MY2018 still missed the rev matching with display of the engaged gear in the instument cluster.
 
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Hello, What is an MY2018? I understand that the 2019 bullet is a better trans. That's why I'd like to put it in my 2018. Question is about the 3 pin(2018) to the 6 pin(2019) connection. How to make, not the rev matching, but my functions on the 2018? If we don't know or it can't be done that's it. It's over, I'll rebuild the original trans.
Does anyone have any experience with this issue? Thanks peaceful warrior
 

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The 2019 Bullitt transmissions were said to have received upgraded shift forks, but that was after a certain build date (not even sure what the date range is). Having said that, my 2019 Bullitt transmission internals weren’t anything spectacular either. The gears were brittle and broke when pressing them off of the shaft.

There used to be billet forks available from Amp Distributing, but they seem to be no longer available. The best you can do for peace of mind is to rebuild yours and have the internal hard parts cryogenically treated to make them stronger and perhaps have the cast forks welded in areas prone to breaking to strengthen them. You can also upgrade the synchros in them. That is about it.

If you haven’t seen the thread on my rebuild, then have a look for more insight before you decide which route to go.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mt82-d4-rebuild-thread.176240/
 

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MY = model year

All Bullitts have the same transmission as the 2018-2023 facelifted Mustang GTs.
Gearing and details on the 2015-2017 are different.
Only Mach1 has (like GT350) the Tremec.
So if you have a 2018 (not 2017) there is no reason to swap your GT MT82 for a Bullitt MT82.

Check the non Bullitt sub-forums for your answers, would wonder if no one did a rev match retrofit.
Check Calimer Transmissions for upgrading your MT82.
 

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Hello NM, I bought the bullitt trans because my trans won't go into 3-4. She'll go into the gate but not engage. I hadn't worked on a mt82 and not sure about rebuilding it. Got it home and realized the problem of the 3 pin and 6 pin connection issue. However, I have since dropped the trans out of the car taken it apart, ordered carbon fiber Syncros and new 1-2 & 3-4 shift forks Waiting on the forks now. I only found the original forks and intend to have the weak point welded. Any leads on stronger forks? I've looked pretty darn good and found sold out forks. I would love to put her back together now but would wait on a better fork replacement. I'll only be at the track once in awhile, I'm mostly street but I do drive it like I stole it. LOL Thanks again Peaceful warrior Bob
 

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The only way to get billet forks now is to have Calimer build your tranny. If you Cryo treat your internals, you can strengthen the cast forks via the process, but I would still have the weak areas Tig welded beforehand.
 
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NGOT8R, Thanks for the help. Tig welding it is. I'll check into cyro treating the forks but not alot of hope on that. Lots of room to allow in the case for the welding. My status is retired with grand kids today. Parts scheduled to be delivered today. Big question which will win out kids or reassemble. She needs to get back on the road. Peaceful warrior Bob
 

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NGOT8R, Thanks for the help. Tig welding it is. I'll check into cyro treating the forks but not alot of hope on that. Lots of room to allow in the case for the welding. My status is retired with grand kids today. Parts scheduled to be delivered today. Big question which will win out kids or reassemble. She needs to get back on the road. Peaceful warrior Bob
FYI, when I sent all of my hard parts in, they basically charged a flat rate, so I recommend sending in everything (shafts, gears, sliders, forks, bearings, shift gate, etc.). I mention that to make sure that you know to take full advantage of the process.
 
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NGT8R, Thanks for the heads up on sending everything. I haven't heard much about this treatment to harden the internals. If my hp stays below like 550-600 what do you think? Still a good idea? I really want to have a solid build at this point. I'll check to see whos around that can perform the work. Again Thanks for the help. Parts didn't come today. Regards Peacefull Warrior, Bob
 

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NGT8R, Thanks for the heads up on sending everything. I haven't heard much about this treatment to harden the internals. If my hp stays below like 550-600 what do you think? Still a good idea? I really want to have a solid build at this point. I'll check to see whos around that can perform the work. Again Thanks for the help. Parts didn't come today. Regards Peacefull Warrior, Bob
You’re welcome! Yes, I think it would be a good idea to do the treatment. If you’re already pulling it apart to address forks and synchros, it makes sense to do it. The other piece of the puzzle is installing a really good clutch to maximize the performance.
 
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NGOT8R, Update on my situation. I have all the carbon fiber Syncros, a full set of billet aluminum forks, worn 5-6 synchro hub gear, seals and some bearings, ect. Bought a 20-ton press, trans jack and other assorted tools. Modified 2 & 3 jaw pullers and made a jig to remove the tail housing (jig works great)! I bought a Barton short throw shifter, recommended 90-140 gear oil with the additive. Lots of moving parts for sure, fun stuff.
Now putting her back together. Output shaft and axillary shafts are rebuilt. Cleaning and installing shafts and the 2 forks and shift rails in the main housing today. Going along pretty good at this point. Lots of gained knowledge, the right tools and a little bit of fingers crossed. Don't know how much I believe in luck but I'll hedge my bets.
More updates later. Thanks again for the help.
Regards peaceful Warrior
 

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NGOT8R, Update on my situation. I have all the carbon fiber Syncros, a full set of billet aluminum forks, worn 5-6 synchro hub gear, seals and some bearings, ect. Bought a 20-ton press, trans jack and other assorted tools. Modified 2 & 3 jaw pullers and made a jig to remove the tail housing (jig works great)! I bought a Barton short throw shifter, recommended 90-140 gear oil with the additive. Lots of moving parts for sure, fun stuff.
Now putting her back together. Output shaft and axillary shafts are rebuilt. Cleaning and installing shafts and the 2 forks and shift rails in the main housing today. Going along pretty good at this point. Lots of gained knowledge, the right tools and a little bit of fingers crossed. Don't know how much I believe in luck but I'll hedge my bets.
More updates later. Thanks again for the help.
Regards peaceful Warrior
That’s great news! Glad to hear things are going well on the rebuild for you. Patience does indeed go a long way. If you get stuck or overwhelmed, just take a step back to regroup and approach it again later with a clear mind. The reward on the end will be well worth the effort.

Where were you able to source your billet forks from?
 
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Hi guys, I have carefully assembled the trans. Using the available videos and the service manual. Once together I'm having problems with a smooth shift btwn gears. It's not in the car yet and I'm back taking her apart to see what I've done wrong. Any help or thoughts would be welcome at this stage of my rebuild.
shift problem: installed the oem shifter and she doesn't want shift smooth like I know it should. I've put 1 qt of gear oil in thinking she just needed lubrication, spun the shafts no help there. Also, she won't go into neutral. I can't turn the input and the out put shafts independently. Frustrated student Peacefull Warrrior.
 

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If you’re shifting it out of the car, it won’t shift like butter. It’s gonna have a very mechanical/notchy feel to it. Mine was like that too.
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