2016 mustang gt Kooks long tube install

[Rafa2195]

Hey guys not sure if this is the right place to ask but I was wondering if anyone has the tool list needed to do the long tube install on my 2016 5.0. Wanna accommodate everything prior to getting into the work since I'm not going to be doing it at my house. Thanks in advance

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[Performance nut]

Hey guys not sure if this is the right place to ask but I was wondering if anyone has the tool list needed to do the long tube install on my 2016 5.0. Wanna accommodate everything prior to getting into the work since I'm not going to be doing it at my house. Thanks in advance

My mechanic told me what it took to get my Kooks in my car. It involved lifting the engine off the motor mounts and messing with a bolt load of things that I didn't want to get involved with. I do know that it is extremely cramped in there and Kooks is the worst of the lot when it comes to shoe horning them in. Paying to have them installed was the best money I spent IMO.

 

[Rafa2195]

I've heard the kooks are a hassle less fit from my tuner but I have the engine hoist cross bar and the mechanical knowledge to do it. I got a deal on kooks long tubes and corsa extreme catback for a decent price. I just gotta take them off the car at the guys house so I wanna make sure I bring the right tools.

 

[GTBOB]

You absolutely positively need these (metric sizes):

 

[veeefour]

Did it myself - 1 7/8.

As noted you need to remove the motor mounts and lift the engine.
I reused the OEM fasteners - thy work just fine - no need to hassle with stage 8 bolts.

The biggest PITA is to get to the front right manifold nut - I had to unbolt the AC compressor to gain access - then I was swearing like crazy while putting this stupid stretchy AC belt back - thx Ford!

You need a lot of tools - I had to use practically a half of my toolbox.

 

[GTBOB]

Also search on youtube for CJ Pony's header install video. For the most part, it is accurate. You don't need a lift, just get it up on jackstands. Also DO NOT remove the engines mounts on the frame...no need to. Just the brackets that are attached to engine block is all that is needed.

 

[veeefour]

Also search on youtube for CJ Pony's header install video. For the most part, it is accurate. You don't need a lift, just get it up on jackstands. Also DO NOT remove the engines mounts on the frame...no need to. Just the brackets that are attached to engine block is all that is needed.

+1

 

[Grimace427]

Also search on youtube for CJ Pony's header install video. For the most part, it is accurate. You don't need a lift, just get it up on jackstands. Also DO NOT remove the engines mounts on the frame...no need to. Just the brackets that are attached to engine block is all that is needed.

I'm a professional tech and I still used CJ's install video. It is very accurate and helpful.

 

[ajxtreeme]

I'm a professional tech and I still used CJ's install video. It is very accurate and helpful.

I plan to do this install at home on jackstands. I will have a helper. How many hours are we looking at? Any tips that you learned that I should know? Thanks.

 

[Grimace427]

I plan to do this install at home on jackstands. I will have a helper. How many hours are we looking at? Any tips that you learned that I should know? Thanks.

It takes me 5-6 hours to do on a lift with all the best tools. Figure 8-10 hours including breaks if you are doing it on jackstands, especially if this is your first header install. It is a physical job especially trying to start the first few bolts/nuts on the longtubes. The CJPP video really tells you everything you will need including the necessary tools.

I like to remove the a/c line on the upper portion of the passenger side of the engine as it makes accessing the front upper header bolt so much easier but I have an A/C machine to use so that might not be an option for you. Really take your time on the passenger side and make sure you can access each bolt before removing the other bolt/nuts.

Put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the bolts that are replacing the studs, and if you remove any of the studs and reinstall them put some on those as well. On the studs themselves you do not need to put any anti-seize on them when threading the nuts on them. The idea is anything threading into the aluminum heads should have anti-seize on them to avoid damaging the threads.

[ame]

 

[veeefour]

It takes me 5-6 hours to do on a lift with all the best tools. Figure 8-10 hours including breaks if you are doing it on jackstands, especially if this is your first header install. It is a physical job especially trying to start the first few bolts/nuts on the longtubes. The CJPP video really tells you everything you will need including the necessary tools.

I like to remove the a/c line on the upper portion of the passenger side of the engine as it makes accessing the front upper header bolt so much easier but I have an A/C machine to use so that might not be an option for you. Really take your time on the passenger side and make sure you can access each bolt before removing the other bolt/nuts.

Put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the bolts that are replacing the studs, and if you remove any of the studs and reinstall them put some on those as well. On the studs themselves you do not need to put any anti-seize on them when threading the nuts on them. The idea is anything threading into the aluminum heads should have anti-seize on them to avoid damaging the threads.

No need to do that - you can unbolt the compressor form engine and tilt it forwards - you will have a good access after that.

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