2016 GT350R considering to buy

[MHW100]

New guy here and this has been likely asked 100k times so please be gentle as I’m being lazy and not doing a thorough search.

I’m looking at a 2016 R with 400 miles on it. Showroom condition at a Ford dealership.

I would put a Ford warranty on it but is 2016 really the least desirable year given all the engine issues? I appreciate the web may have them embellished

I think I can get it for about $70k USD.

Should I just pass even with the warranty? I don’t want to be constantly worrying when it’s going to blow?

Assuming it is a buy is there anything the dealer should do specific to the 2016 to prevent a problem?

Thank you.

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[Inthehighdesert]

Before I spent 70k on a 16R, I’d buy a 19 or a 20 regular 350 in the same price range. I’ll leave the engine nonsense alone. That rabbit hole has been done at naeseum. But a Ford warranty for peace of mind and enjoy the car. There phenomenal.

 

[MHW100]

Thank you. I take that to mean its better to get v2.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

I don’t necessarily think there’s that much of a difference, but others do. That said, it would just be a safer purchase and peace of mind down the road if you ever chose to move on to something else. In the grand scheme of things the Ford warranty is pretty inexpensive for the piece of mind it provides.

Thank you. I take that to mean its better to get v2.

 

[Champale]

If you can get it with a warranty and you like the car, why not? Yes the Gen 2 engine is more reliable but if you blow yours up, they will put a new Gen 2 engine in it not a Gen 1 engine.

 

[WItoTX]

If I was going to drop 70k on a Voodoo, I would do my own research rather than ask about bunch of random internet people LOL...

Did you drive the car?
Has any maintenance been done?
Did it just sit for 7 model years?
Have you or a qualified inspector looked through the car? (This should cost you money)
Why has it not sold already?

My car only had 3500 miles on it in 4 years when I purchased it, and one rear shock already had a dry rotted seal. Car's need to be driven to work properly, seals need oil splashed on them periodically. I would get a good mechanic to inspect the car. Someone you trust.

 

[wingnutt]

If I was going to drop 70k on a Voodoo, I would do my own research rather than ask about bunch of random internet people LOL...

oh cmon now…is not logging into a Mustang board full of voodoo yahoos not considered “research”?!?

 

[wingnutt]

I would put a Ford warranty on it but is 2016 really the least desirable year given all the engine issues?

Should I just pass even with the warranty? I don’t want to be constantly worrying when it’s going to blow?

Assuming it is a buy is there anything the dealer should do specific to the 2016 to prevent a problem?

Thank you.

no.
depends.
then buy a Prius.
no.

seriously…buy the car, get the warranty, drive the snot out of her. The risk is there, no way to sugarcoat it even with the 19/20s.

full disclosure…I have a 16R that is closing in on 50k miles and my warranty is long gone. I’m about to do another road trip before the snow hits the pass, from LA to Dallas next week.

Here is my pack list for road-trips… I carry a couple quarts of oil, an AA spare tire kit, Uniden radar detector, my triple A card and dill pickle sunflower seeds

 

[Cobra Jet]

If it's at a Ford Dealer - tell them you want a full copy of the OASIS report to view.

That document will have the original Warranty start date, any warranty or repair history if it was serviced at any Ford Dealer in the US, any outstanding recalls (if applicable), applied recall repairs (if applicable), Lemon Buy Back (if applicable), and a bunch of other pertinent info.

I would also request a CarFax and AutoCheck report from the dealer. The reason I say both is the data on each VARIES... neither report is the "end all be all", BUT you're looking to make sure there's absolutely no issues documented at all between the reports.

It also can't hurt to ask them if they wouid be willing to throw in a Ford Extended Warranty or Service Plan. You never know what they'll do to seal a deal and it doesn't hurt to ask, you don't know unless you inquire.

As for price points - comparing an R to a "regular" GT350 is a moot discussion. At this stage, sure the argument can be for the same $$$ you're getting a newer GT350 with a newer VooDoo... BUT in the end, if the intent is to keep the car long term - the GT350R will ALWAYS command top dollar and more $$$ over any GT350 because of its uniqueness, lower production figures and the sole fact - it's an "R". Even regardless if it's a 2016 model year or not, the 2016 R will value higher than it's common GT350 counterpart (and subsequent common GT350 model years). The values on the R's has been rising and they're not going to depreciate any further at this stage.

But as others have said above me - do your due diligence - the forum can assist, but you have to really do your due diligence if you have access to the car in person. Look it over completely in BRIGHT lighting. Check it inside and out. Ask to take it on a test drive - and NOT one of their scripted 3-5 minute "around the block at 35mph" drives. Tell them you want to take it on the highway and the in-town roads to make sure nothing is amiss in the MPH/RPM/Handling areas.

That's all I have to offer. If someone on here is local to you that owns a GT350 or is familiar with the specifics of one - maybe put out a general question in the Regional sub-section on here to see if someone would be willing to accompany you to look over the car if you're not sure of what to be researching.

 

[MHW100]

Thank you all for the comprehensive and constructive help.

I have done all the basic investigative work you would do for a $20k car let alone a $70k one.

Once the basics were done my coming on here is to attain the nuanced issues from you expert owners that have experienced it first hand.

From what I can gather the >19 cars don’t necessarily have a lower failure rate which augurs well for buying an older machine hopefully at a lower price though!

 

[460Fred]

Is that 70K CAD or US? I assume US.
Dang, you live in a beautiful place. Will you be able to enjoy the car?
First up is new tires, unless they have already been replaced.

 

[MHW100]

I converted to U.S. so about $100k CAD.
We don’t get snow here so it’s a daily driver. Think Seattle weather. I asked about the tires and waiting for a response.

 

[MAGS1]

I converted to U.S. so about $100k CAD.
We don’t get snow here so it’s a daily driver. Think Seattle weather. I asked about the tires and waiting for a response.

Check out the cars for sale on the site here too. There’s a couple really nice 350’s listed. Plus, you’d be able to talk with the current owner about the car too. Just another option for you.

 

[svttim]

The 16 is not the evil stepchild that some point out. The G2 is more reliable with a lower fail rate. If it were me I would still buy the R (I have owned a 16 base and a 19R) But as someone said, whats the purpose of the car for you

 

[ecoboost321]

It’s also worth mentioning the Gen 1 engines were different in regards to the R models versus non R models (cam phasers, etc) so failure rate comparison to then Gen 2 is problematic. I’ve just crossed 20,000 miles in my 2016 GT350R and fingers crossed, all is well

As previous stated, it really comes down to personal preference and usage. Do you need back seat ? Do you want heated/cooled seats ? Planning on track usage ? Do you want Carbon Fiber wheels ? I would start with that first when making a decision.

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