2016 GT - Driveline vibration at 40+ mph, plus MT82 shifting roughly

HourlyB

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I've been having this issue for a while, but it has advanced at this point.

After a diff swap and some possibly shoddy work, my car starts vibrating at above 40 mph, increasing intensity with more speed. Vibration is definitely coming from the rear of the car, wheels and tires are brand new, and even on the summer set I have, the vibrated.

Now a additional issue has come up. Recently, even if the clutch is fully engaged, the transmission shifts very rough, as if the clutch is let out too early. No loud audible grinding or anything, it's mostly just the shifter vibrating.

Anyone know what might be happening?

 

MrJFK65

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Following, I have a bone stock 2016 Convertible that is vibrating from the rear of the car and too a way lesser extent the front. The dealer says the tires are new, and to be fair they look it. Normally I would be all over guessing this is a tire issue, but researching this shows various results that lean towards a known Ford issue with the Half Shafts/Driveshaft. Looking around the internet (Google is our friend) I can't seem to find the actual solution to this, just a ton of guessing and very strong opinions.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2016-mustang-vibration-buyer-beware.67998/
 

Cobra Jet

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This thread, if neither of you have not seen it, is the largest driveline vibration thread on this website. It contains a lot of good tech info and DIY fixes/diagnosis.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vibration-between-50-70-mph.15990/

I too had the 2016 driveline vibe w/ my then brand new 2016… I also posted in that above thread… and eventually my 2016 ended up being a Buy Back, because the issue could never be remedied.

Good luck!
 

bnightstar

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Sounds a lot like wheel hub bearing to me it usually start vibrating around that number check your rear left wheel hub bearing for play. I changed both rear hub and halfshaft and lug nuts to finally get rid of this vibrations. Now if I can figure out what the annoying knock from the back is.
 

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Sounds a lot like wheel hub bearing to me it usually start vibrating around that number check your rear left wheel hub bearing for play. I changed both rear hub and halfshaft and lug nuts to finally get rid of this vibrations. Now if I can figure out what the annoying knock from the back is.
Will you Please tell us more about the knock from the rear that you’re experiencing and maybe post a video, so that we can hear it?
 

bnightstar

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Will you Please tell us more about the knock from the rear that you’re experiencing and maybe post a video, so that we can hear it?
Video is hard to do as car is winterized now but overall over speed bumps and patholes I have a knocking sound according to the Service Manual it could be a number of things:
1. Shocks or Shocks bushings
2. Springs or Springs mounts
3. Stabiliser bar bushings or Endlinks
4. Worn or damaged LCA or toe-link ball-joins or Cross-Axel ball joints

I checked shocks and already replaced Stabiliser bar bushings ones (maybe is time for another need to check).
 

NGOT8R

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Video is hard to do as car is winterized now but overall over speed bumps and patholes I have a knocking sound according to the Service Manual it could be a number of things:
1. Shocks or Shocks bushings
2. Springs or Springs mounts
3. Stabiliser bar bushings or Endlinks
4. Worn or damaged LCA or toe-link ball-joins or Cross-Axel ball joints

I checked shocks and already replaced Stabiliser bar bushings ones (maybe is time for another need to check).
I think another look at things when time and weather permits is a good idea. I always like looking over my car for things that could be new trouble lurking about.
 

bnightstar

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I think another look at things when time and weather permits is a good idea. I always like looking over my car for things that could be new trouble lurking about.
it's not new though I have this knocking for like 2 years now and my dealer is not good at diagnosing the Mustang so this is annoying me ever since. By the list of things in that list I guess I will just do an IRS overhaul with better Steeda/BMR parts and call it a day.
 
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HourlyB

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So, I took it into a shop, and they said they spotted some heat damage on the driveshaft, and the pinion looks like it was hammered on. They said that both the rear pinion and driveshaft will likely need to get replaced. Also, the exhaust clamps are broken, which has been a thing before. (Not sure if that is symptomatic of anything else)
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Now, if the driveshaft does need to be replaced, what would a good option be?

Daily year-round driving, and plans for occasional track days/autocross.

Steedas one piece is currently discounted until the 25th. I haven't heard much about them, but the original manufacturer is Spicer/Dana.
I originally wanted to purchase the Driveshaft Shops one piece directly, but they said they are backed up until February 25th. Looking around for another shop that has them in stock. Some people say they are good, some people have horror stories.
Everyone loves Shaftmasters, but I've yet to find someone who stocks them. Their website also says the S550 GT driveshaft is out of stock.
Some people suggest the Dynotech. Haven't heard much outside of that.
And plenty of people suggest just sticking with the OEM 2-piece.

The car has already been heavily modded, so I'm not terribly concerned with the harshness increasing, however if the new driveshaft does continue to vibrate and make noise like the one it is replacing, that I am not interested in.

As it stands right now, I've had no issues with Steeda products in the past, and they are currently the cheapest option.
 

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So, I took it into a shop, and they said they spotted some heat damage on the driveshaft, and the pinion looks like it was hammered on. They said that both the rear pinion and driveshaft will likely need to get replaced. Also, the exhaust clamps are broken, which has been a thing before. (Not sure if that is symptomatic of anything else)



Now, if the driveshaft does need to be replaced, what would a good option be?

Daily year-round driving, and plans for occasional track days/autocross.
Go with Steeda but make sure your driveshaft is properly aligned the OEM 2-piece design is heavy and is causing more vibrations than an one piece aluminium and if the pinion is also damaged this needs replacing as well. But most importantly proper driveshaft alignment is needed.
 

boB

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Install the OEM 2-piece, they work. When a problem occurs and we can't find it the best thing is to go back to stock and start from there. Anything else and if it still has the vibration then you won't know what is causing it.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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Go with Steeda but make sure your driveshaft is properly aligned the OEM 2-piece design is heavy and is causing more vibrations than an one piece aluminium and if the pinion is also damaged this needs replacing as well. But most importantly proper driveshaft alignment is needed.
Understood! Already got a replacement pinion flange.

I've also seen some people say that they got vibration from the subframe being off center, so that might be another thing to check.

Install the OEM 2-piece, they work. When a problem occurs and we can't find it the best thing is to go back to stock and start from there. Anything else and if it still has the vibration then you won't know what is causing it.
I think the issue for me is that I cant find a vendor for them that has them in stock. (Not surprising, given the flange switch in 2018) I'm not crazy about buying a used one off of eBay either.

At a certain point, going back to stock is more difficult.

EDIT; Trying to reach out to Levitttown Ford to see if they are stocking the 2015-2017 driveshaft.

My only reason for going more directly to the 1-piece is that I do want to put some form of FI on my car (not right now, but some time)
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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Go with Steeda but make sure your driveshaft is properly aligned the OEM 2-piece design is heavy and is causing more vibrations than an one piece aluminium and if the pinion is also damaged this needs replacing as well. But most importantly proper driveshaft alignment is needed.
On the topic of driveshaft alignment, there has been several modifications performed on the rear end, namely;
  • Ford Performance Track Shock and Strut kit
  • Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings
  • BMR Rear Cradle Lockout kit
  • BMR Rear Shock Mount
  • BMR Handling Springs
  • 2018 PP Diff swap

Given the diff swap and other work, would the shop be able to align it properly with the equipment or would something like Steeda's subframe alignment kit be needed?
 

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On the topic of driveshaft alignment, there has been several modifications performed on the rear end, namely;
  • Ford Performance Track Shock and Strut kit
  • Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings
  • BMR Rear Cradle Lockout kit
  • BMR Rear Shock Mount
  • BMR Handling Springs
  • 2018 PP Diff swap

Given the diff swap and other work, would the shop be able to align it properly with the equipment or would something like Steeda's subframe alignment kit be needed?
I don't think you need Subframe allignment kit for Driveshaft alignment as the goal of this is to align the driveshaft and the pinion and to not have excessive pinion angle.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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So good news everyone! The Steeda driveshaft is in, and the noise/vibration is gone! So that was the issue.


But, some other issues have come up. Namely, looks like the right-rear wheel is bent, so I need to get that corrected. At least, to both the mechanics and my eye, that's what it looks like.

PXL_20220226_131056936.MP.jpg


Also, I'm making ehhh power, even after a Lund tune. 365/344 on Shell 93. Given all that's been done is a C&L CAI, Stainless Works catbacks, I probably should not have expected much more.
 

 
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