2016 Ecoboost Premium Splicing in RCAs for Amp?

[pouncer11]

Good evening,

I have searched high and low, and I am either too dumb to understand, or missing a few things. I apologize in advance if this is the equivalent to "what oil" threads.

I am looking to add a sub like everyone. The car has the 9 speaker stereo. My understanding is that the stereo dumps a low level input to a factory amp, and that some have built connectors to bypass this and essentially get RCA output for their stereo config.

I have seen that you can program changes, like disabling the stupid fake engine noises, disabling the house curve for the eq, and there was also talk of "Stereo Flat Line Out". Im not sure if I understand this one?

I am hoping to avoid using an LOC, and wanted to come here first to understand things.

Can I splice in RCAs off of the front speaker outputs between the amp and radio unit? Im not looking to do a full build, this is my wifes car, just wanting to provide bass.

I have power wire run through the dash, I have remote wire tapped in the trunk. I just want to get that low level input before I tear the seats out and run wires.

Thank you in advance.

Edit: I should add that I bought an OBD connector that should allow me to run FORSCAN and make changes if needed, mostly excited about deleting the fake engine noises.

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[Cathul]

Use a T-harness, f.e. the CARAV 12-240. This plugs in between the stock wiring and the ACM. Use this T-harness (or similar ones) to splice your RCAs in. This way you don't have to cut your factory wiring.

 

[StangTime]

You'll definitely want to turn-off those fake engine sounds with Forscan.
Here's how I wired my system. You'll find a complete system wiring diagram you can use as an example. It's not a bypass harness but will leave the OEM amp disconnected and provide the signals you will need for aftermarket amps or processors.
You may glean some info from these links:
Wiring guide
DIY wiring harness
Complete System Diagram

 

[StangTime]

Use a T-harness, f.e. the CARAV 12-240. This plugs in between the stock wiring and the ACM. Use this T-harness (or similar ones) to splice your RCAs in. This way you don't have to cut your factory wiring.

The Carav 12-240 looks like it only plugs into the base model head unit. There are no "low-level" signals here, just speaker outputs. I don't see how any of those connectors will work between the harness connectors on the 9 channel DSP AMP.

9 speaker amp connections, the Carav 12-240 will not plug into this:

 

[Cathul]

I did that on my Shaker system. The ACM uses the same wires for high-level and low-level output and the same plugs. Just pull the ACM and see for yourself.
Believe me, it works. ;)
The only reason i went with the idatalink harness and DSR1 afterwards was the fact, that for export models Ford put the "Audio enable", i.e. the 6V remote turn on into the other plug on the ACM for whatever reason.
And for the 2nd plug there is no T-harness available.

The Maestro MFT1 kit uses the exact same plugs to replace the ACM for an aftermarket radio and connect this to the stock amplifier btw. ;)

 

[StangTime]

I did that on my Shaker system. The ACM uses the same wires for high-level and low-level output and the same plugs. Just pull the ACM and see for yourself.
Believe me, it works. ;)
The only reason i went with the idatalink harness and DSR1 afterwards was the fact, that for export models Ford put the "Audio enable", i.e. the 6V remote turn on into the other plug on the ACM for whatever reason.
And for the 2nd plug there is no T-harness available.

The Maestro MFT1 kit uses the exact same plugs to replace the ACM for an aftermarket radio and connect this to the stock amplifier btw. ;)

Ah, that makes sense now. I never thought about connecting at the back of the ACM. Grabbing signals at the kick panel seemed like an easier option for me than opening up the center stack.

 

[Cathul]

If you want to replace the factory amp this is indeed the best solution. Especially if you use the HRN-AR-FOx harness.
But if you only want to add a sub, you cannot rip out the stock amp. In this case you need another solution.
My solution of choice was, is and always will be the T-harness behind the ACM if you have a 9-speaker system.

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