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2015 Mustang Ecoboost (P04DB, P0234)

lukepawlak

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Hey guys. My name is Luke it’s my first post on the forums. I’ve searched and searched for a solution to the issues I’ve been having and I’m getting nowhere. I’ll start at the beginning. About 5 months ago I purchased a stock 2015 Mustang Ecoboost. I first modded with a pypes 3 inch downpipe as well as a tune to support that. I took a road trip and soon after I arrived I got a check engine light for misfire cylinder 3 and misfire startup first 1000 revolutions. Car functioned fine but was still concerned. When I arrived home I changed the plugs with NGK one step colder and I’ve since played with gaps and had no luck. I’ve changed coil packs, PCV valve, and checked for any vacuum leaks or loose connections. I added a K&N intake to compensate for the lessened backpressure with the exhaust as well as an oil catch can to catch whatever was messing with the engine. Nothing resolved the issue. The car sputters slightly at a stop and rpms vary about 800-1700 just sitting. Driving everything was alright except I lack the torque I know the engine has. My friend and I compression tested it and found that cylinder 2 and 3 weren’t to par. We did a headgaket replacement with ARP head studs and she started back up. However, after doing so the car still throws the code. Not nearly as often, but occasionally cylinder 3 misfire and startup first 1000 revolutions. Now present day... I continue to get P04DB and P0234 causing my turbo to go into limp mode with ANY hard acceleration. I have a SCT tuner and have been in contact with the Bama team doing revision after revision and getting no solution. I still get the codes running stock. I notice that when stopped the air fuel ratio also jumps with the rpms. I’m fairly sure it’s a sensor. All my lines are good and connected double, tripple, quadruple checked. Could this be a MAP sensor or boost sensor? I’m stuck and I know she doesn’t drive correct. My girlfriend has a 2016 Ecoboost and my car no where near torques even close to hers. I also get a lot of turbo flutter as opposed to blow off but again I’m stuck in the dark. Thank you for reading my essay of a post and for any help you can give. Sucks having a brand new car with good parts that hasn’t performed properly since I bought it. Thank you.
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Blue Moon

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I had P04DB last year after I installed a Radium baffle plate. After I tightened everything down again it went away.

Don't know if that's any help to you, but it's all I got.
 
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lukepawlak

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Here is a short video clip of the AFR.
I had P04DB last year after I installed a Radium baffle plate. After I tightened everything down again it went away.

Don't know if that's any help to you, but it's all I got.
Thank you for your reply I’ve never seen that before. Did you get the overboost code as well?
 

Blue Moon

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Here is a short video clip of the AFR.


Thank you for your reply I’ve never seen that before. Did you get the overboost code as well?
No, just the PCV code.
 

Cobra Jet

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The 2015 EB had a PCV issue and there was I believe an early recall on it. I don’t have the docs accessible, but I believe it was listed on this site either in this forum or the Ecoboost sub-forum. The PCV issue was corrected by Ford either mid-year 2015 or starting pre-2016 production (because 2016’s didn’t have the issue).

Search for key words such as “PCV” and “recall” in either forum, you may hit the thread with the info.

Also to note, there’s another thread on here which discusses replacing the EB fuel rail sensor, as some believe that sensor causes drivability issues in the 2015-2017’s. The info was carried over here from a “Facebook” link; some swear by it, others don’t believe it’s part of any issue. Supposedly the part is relatively cheap and takes no more than 5-10 mins to swap out. The thread is probably on page 1 or 2 in the Ecoboost sub-forum, so it should be easy to find.

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As for your exact DTC codes, here’s the info on each:
BAFD5AFE-C7EA-429B-A1CF-1F13D73385E6.jpeg
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lukepawlak

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The 2015 EB had a PCV issue and there was I believe an early recall on it. I don’t have the docs accessible, but I believe it was listed on this site either in this forum or the Ecoboost sub-forum. The PCV issue was corrected by Ford either mid-year 2015 or starting pre-2016 production (because 2016’s didn’t have the issue).

Search for key words such as “PCV” and “recall” in either forum, you may hit the thread with the info.

Also to note, there’s another thread on here which discusses replacing the EB fuel rail sensor, as some believe that sensor causes drivability issues in the 2015-2017’s. The info was carried over here from a “Facebook” link; some swear by it, others don’t believe it’s part of any issue. Supposedly the part is relatively cheap and takes no more than 5-10 mins to swap out. The thread is probably on page 1 or 2 in the Ecoboost sub-forum, so it should be easy to find.

———

As for your exact DTC codes, here’s the info on each:
BAFD5AFE-C7EA-429B-A1CF-1F13D73385E6.jpeg
2CB123CB-7882-4456-BD45-740F359BF807.jpeg
Thanks for your reply. I did replace the PcV but the fuel rail sensor sounds like a culprit. I get a ticking sound out of the fuel pump under the hood. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks.
 
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lukepawlak

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Thanks for your reply. I did replace the PcV but the fuel rail sensor sounds like a culprit. I get a ticking sound out of the fuel pump under the hood. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks.

So a little update. I have since changed the map sensor and case up with the same issue. I then replaced the fuel pressure sensor and have since seen a lot of important. The car doesn’t immediately limp out the turbo. However, I still have a minor rough idle (bounces about 50 rpms in both directions almost not noticeable but enough). My new fuel pump is in and tomorrow I’m gunna try and change that as it makes an abnormally loud clicking sound, even while driving I can hear it. So I’ll post results.
 
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lukepawlak

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So a little update. I have since changed the map sensor and case up with the same issue. I then replaced the fuel pressure sensor and have since seen a lot of important. The car doesn’t immediately limp out the turbo. However, I still have a minor rough idle (bounces about 50 rpms in both directions almost not noticeable but enough). My new fuel pump is in and tomorrow I’m gunna try and change that as it makes an abnormally loud clicking sound, even while driving I can hear it. So I’ll post results.
UPDATE: Fuel pump, map sensor, and PCV valve were not solutions to my issue. I made an appointment with Steeda tuning and they turned me away saying it was an internal issue. Last thing i can think of is the dealer and i have a feeling they're going to tell me the worst.
 
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lukepawlak

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UPDATE: Fuel pump, map sensor, and PCV valve were not solutions to my issue. I made an appointment with Steeda tuning and they turned me away saying it was an internal issue. Last thing i can think of is the dealer and i have a feeling they're going to tell me the worst.
Was told an internal engine issue. Car is using a lot of coolant. Does anyone know any local people to Boynton Beach Florida thag can take a look at my vehicle.
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